Commercial Ranges

[CWebster]

I was wondering if anybody here had any experience with commercial/residential ranges. Getting ready to redo my kitchen, and the wife and I were looking at buying a more productive range. The commercial ranges I have been looking at are a 6-burner, 30,000btu/burner, w/oven commercial range approx. $1100-1500. I've looked at residential ranges with similar spec's, but then add $1000-2000 to the price. First, would there be any special requirements to putting in a commercial unit? I. e. , Different hood, ventilation, building code, etc. Second, what are any quality manufacturers. I don't have any experience with commercial ranges, but as much cooking as we do, we need a better and more productive range. Thanks for any help.



Chris Webster

 

[Todd G]

Viking, Wolf, and Dacor were the top lines at the store I used to work for. I liked the Viking line the best. They sold a few 60" ranges that weighed around 900lb and cost upwards of $7K.

 

[TboneMan]

I've got a 36" Thermador all stainless, with 4 burners and a center griddle. As I recall the total BTU output (all appliances) was 100,000. This unit required vent hood of a minimum of 42". Ours vents to the outside and will suck small animals through it (1000 cfm at full).



Thermador had many of the features of the Viking, Decor and others, but was more in our price range. If I remember correctly (it has been 9 years since we built) the stove and vent hood (also stainless made by Best) was in the $3000-$3500.

http://www.thermador.com/category.cfm?cat_id=37





The only problem with units like these is that once you are used to cooking on/with them you can't stand working on a regular stove/oven.



If you love cooking or you entertain at home alot, you have to have one!

 

[Todd G]

Another thing, if you can, get a hood with a remote fan on the roof. The commercial hoods with the fans inside will sound like your turbo pushing 30psi.

 

[TboneMan]

I forgot to mention that which Todd G. did.



Also, be prepared to throw away any pots and pans that are not of commercial quality. Thin bottomed pot and pans and those with plastic or short handles will not take the higher heat of a commercial burner.



Go to your local restaurant supply store and purchase the equipment that restaurants use. The less fancy the store is, the better. Ask the owner/manager/chef of your local family restaurant or diner where they shop for their equipment. These people want quality at the lowest price possible. Be careful, though, if you think BOMBing trucks is addicting, restaurant supply stores can bring out the "kid in the candy store" syndrome.

 

[Larry Willard]

Before buying anything commercial for residential use contact your local permits office to be sure they will allow a commercial unit of any type, and what kind of requirement they have if they do.

Larry

 

[HVAC]

A commercial range will have different code requirements. A commercial hood will be necessary. You will need to be certain you have adequate gas supply to support the increased consumption of the commercial range.



As mentioned above, range hoods can be rediculously noisy. Make sure you run them before you buy. Take it from an HVAC guy, if you can get one that has the motor above the roof, that's the way to go. Much less noise this way.

 

[No Neck]

My mother was a chef and I learned to cook from her. When I decided to build a house I designed the kitchen around the range. I bought a 36 inch US range (this is a true comercial range) with 2 burners and an 24 inch griddle. The griddle is thermostatically controlled so it can be used as one large burner. I have had this range for 20 years and would not trade it for anything.



Regarding the noise from the hood. You can buy a good hood with the motor in the hood and not suffer from noise. I have a Ventahood and it produces less noise than the normal range hood found in most homes.



You need to be careful when buying a commercial range. There are a lot of ranges that look like a commercial range but are not. There is also a trade off here. True commercial ranges are more difficult to clean and maintain. Then on the other hand the others do a great job and unless you know the difference you will be please with what you have bought.



I also agree that once you have cooked with one of these ranges you will never, never be happy with a electric range.

 

[TboneMan]

HVAC and No Neck,



In a standard residential kitchen design codes generally DO NOT allow for a true commercial range. The key issue is clearence from walls and cabinets (plus ventilation). These units do not have the insulation on the sides to protect the walls from catching fire due to radiant heat. One would have to take construction materials and spacing into consideration. This can take up a lot of square footage.



The residential "professional" lines mention above are all good products (they should be for what you pay for them). The key issue is to not be fooled my standard ranges wrapped in stainless to look like a professional range.

 

[HVAC]

Codes

In a standard residential kitchen design codes generally DO NOT allow for a true commercial range.

I mentioned code concerns in my post. I think the best thing is to inquire with the local building dept regarding their requirements. They can ask for anything they want, even over and above the mechanical code.



Note that if you are replacing a domestic gas range, you may need to rethink/replumb your gas supply system. A commercial range will typically be capable of consuming more fuel then a domestic range. Make sure the fuel supply is adequate.



In our county they made anyone installing a commercial range convert it to electronic ignition. Rather expensive too. So be aware of the complications.



Viking and some of the other manufacturers do make a commercial grade range intended for domestic installation. A commercial range requires six inches of clearance if I recall correctly. The hybrid version will prolly be zero clearance.

 

[jryan11518]

Hungry

Reading about all the stoves makes me hungry. Is there something wrong with me?

 

[waterdonkey]

A true commercial range will not have insulation like a residential range will. Thats were the clearance factor comes in like mentioned above by the others. The heat given off by a true commercial range is tremendous.



A true chimerical Wolf range would be almost half the cost of a residential Wolf or Viking. The home range will have insulation for zero clearance installation, electronic ignition not a standing pilot light and a UL certification to name a few things. All of these things start to add up.



One thing about Viking is they have never produced a commercial unit. (no flame intended) They make good looking appliances though. On the other hand Wolf makes both. The wife wants one so I have been doing my homework. $3000 for a stove:{ :{ :{

 

[CWebster]

Great info guys, thanks. I was wondering what the differences would be, I was concerned about standing pilot and clearances around the stove... sounds like I need to do a little more homework. I am redoing the whole kitchen so I will have a clean slate to work with. I've got provisions for a vent hood, I am putting in new gas line, and I am designing around the range. We use LP gas, would that pose any new problems?



Some ranges I was looking at http://www.abestkitchen.com/store/ranges.html



Thanks

Chris

 

[HVAC]

Seldom have I ever hooked up a stove that had already been set up for LP. They come set up for nat gas, so either the people you buy the stove from or the gas company are going to have to work that out for you. I would recommend you get a commitment from the seller to make on site adjustments. Don't let them downplay this.



As far as opperation goes, LP is virtually the same as nat gas.

 

[Todd G]

I've converted many ranges to LP. It's as simple as changing a few jets. Now on a professional range, they probably will have to do it at the factory and charge you triple

 

[RT66DOC]

We, too, are renovating our kitchen. We're going to use a 36" island gas cooktop and have narrowed it down to Viking VGSU161 six burner or Fisher & Paykel GC36 five burner. Anybody have experience with/feedback on these?



Also, any suggestions re: brands of commercial-type vent hoods to consider would be appreciated mucho. TIA

 

[HVAC]

You've been gone for a while 66.



Regarding your post, the larger the top burners the better. Check the BTU ratings.



Other then that, the hood is only as good as it is quiet. Listen to one run before you make a decision. It's best to have a hood with the motor located on the roof.

 

[Hemiless]

Standing Pilot

The biggest problem that I've seen with the standing pilot commercial range is the amount of fuel they use just sitting there. I would look to a range that has electric spark ignition or something similar. The extra cost up front will end up saving you money in the long run plus you won't be wasting fuel for nothing.



As far as venting goes remember for approximately every gallon of "fuel" LP/Natural Gas used a gallon of condensate (water vapor) is produced this is extremely noticeable in colder climates. This is the reason window’s fog up and collect moisture on them in a poorly vented house when cooking is going on in the kitchen or a gas clothes dryer is running. So you want to make sure that your range vent is large enough to get this moisture out of your house.



I hope this information helps in your decision.

 

[RT66DOC]

HVAC

Those two cooktops are fairly close BTU-wise. Fisher Paykel tops at 13,000 and the Viking a bit more. Viking has 6 10" burners and FP has 5, one of which is larger so I suppose pots and pans could get a little crowded on the Viking. I know Viking's reputation but I wonder how much experience folks have had with Fisher & Paykel as that brand has only been sold in US since '96 or so, although they sell millions of units worlwide - since the '30's I think. You know, something can look great on paper and in the store but turn out to be a piece of crap after you pay for it and use it for a few months, Just ask my brother about his (former) Gaggenau oven.

 

[waterdonkey]

Check the BTU ratings.

Yes, what HVAC said.



Check both ends of the BTU range. Some have higher low ends and simmer to high. If I remember correctly 500 BTU is a good low setting for simmering.