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Considering 2020 3500 Dully over my F350

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New to the forum here and had a few questions/looking for educated input.

I have a 2016 F350 Dully that has 34K miles on it and paid for that I love. I am honestly just tired of it doing a regen cycle every 250-300 miles. The fuel mileage is crap on it which I understand it is a large truck that is made to pull and not expecting unrealistic mpg but I'm averaging about 8.4 to 9 on most trips pulling a 32 foot trailer with race cars in it. Last weekend 200 mile trip no trailer running 70 mph I got 14.3 mpg (was over 15 till a regen cycle and it dropped to 12.8 then back up)

I used a 2020 Ram 2500 to pull the trailer and was not to impressed (can be expected coming from F350 dully to 2500). I did however like the 2500 mpg while towing and definitely not towing over my F350. I am now looking at a 2020 RAM 3500 dully, I think it is more than enough truck to do the job, my question is how much fuel mileage would I be sacrificing with the 3500 dully over the 2500 SRW?

Just for reference I would be using the truck as daily driver as well as towing nearly every weekend. This is why I was leaning towards SRW truck. Tow a 32' trailer total weight about 9K lbs. Also looking at getting a larger goose-neck trailer in the next couple years and don't want to have to get another truck later.

Thanks in advance for any input.
 
Unless you have very high pin weight I think a 9K trailer is better suited with a 3500 SRW.

If rumors are true the 2021 Ram will be rid of the CP4 pump and might be worth waiting for.

Towing 10-12K lbs with my 3500 SRW HO 2018 Cummins I get 9-11 most tanks. Regen every 24 hours of engine runtime, never any shorter. That’s 800 miles between regens with my average speed of just over 33 mph.

For a daily driver I’d also highly consider the auto-level suspension.
 
New to the forum here and had a few questions/looking for educated input.

I have a 2016 F350 Dully that has 34K miles on it and paid for that I love. I am honestly just tired of it doing a regen cycle every 250-300 miles. The fuel mileage is crap on it which I understand it is a large truck that is made to pull and not expecting unrealistic mpg but I'm averaging about 8.4 to 9 on most trips pulling a 32 foot trailer with race cars in it. Last weekend 200 mile trip no trailer running 70 mph I got 14.3 mpg (was over 15 till a regen cycle and it dropped to 12.8 then back up)

I used a 2020 Ram 2500 to pull the trailer and was not to impressed (can be expected coming from F350 dully to 2500). I did however like the 2500 mpg while towing and definitely not towing over my F350. I am now looking at a 2020 RAM 3500 dully, I think it is more than enough truck to do the job, my question is how much fuel mileage would I be sacrificing with the 3500 dully over the 2500 SRW?

Just for reference I would be using the truck as daily driver as well as towing nearly every weekend. This is why I was leaning towards SRW truck. Tow a 32' trailer total weight about 9K lbs. Also looking at getting a larger goose-neck trailer in the next couple years and don't want to have to get another truck later.

Thanks in advance for any input.
9000 pound trailer is well within the limits of a 2500.
Mine is rated at 17,150 towing capacity, but is 2wd, but even a 4wd will still be nearly as high.
So, depending on what gooseneck you step up to, the 2500 may still be viable.
Rear air suspension is nearly an absolute must for the 2500 for towing, best option I ordered on mine.
Ride quality is much better than a 3500.
 
My 19' 3500 LO SRW is my daily driver and my tow rig (various boats up to 15k on occasion). Empty I average 16.7mpg but I'm also a heavy on the pedal (73~82), If I bring it down to 70 I'll get up to 18.1. Towing... I see around 9 to 10 in the 50~55 range on flat ground. Suspension wise, I don't have rear-air and for comfort I adjust the tire pressure. I did have a 2019 F250 PS that would get about 12.4 empty but then I only got to put about 360 miles on it before Ford repurchased it.
 
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So what's the real reason you want to trade?

Seriously pulling Race Cars with a 1 Ton DRW at 70 MPH ... I don't buy your concerns about MPG for One Second. Go light $10-$20,000 on fire and you get the same benefit you would as trading HD trucks for MPG. Every time fuel prices go up people PANIC and dump their SUV's for econo boxes and loose thousands more trading than they will ever save in fuel costs. I compare your unloaded Ford to a 2018 SRW HO Cummins unloaded that gets 18 MPG:

14.3 MPG 6,993 Gal to go 100K at $3.30 gal is $23,076.90

18 MPG 5,555 Gal to go 100K at $3.30 gal is $18,331.50

That $4,745.40 in fuel savings IF you go 100K. (You are not even doing 10K miles per year.) You loose $10-20K just driving a new HD truck off the lot.

Loaded others will tell you to do 62 MPH not 70 MPH to improve MPG. However your high single digit MPG towing isn't bad. With grades going from 1000' to 8000' I have seen 7 MPG on a 2003 Cummins with a Manual Trans. Yet it would get over 20 MPG with the AC off.
 
So what's the real reason you want to trade?

Seriously pulling Race Cars with a 1 Ton DRW at 70 MPH ... I don't buy your concerns about MPG for One Second. Go light $10-$20,000 on fire and you get the same benefit you would as trading HD trucks for MPG. Every time fuel prices go up people PANIC and dump their SUV's for econo boxes and loose thousands more trading than they will ever save in fuel costs. I compare your unloaded Ford to a 2018 SRW HO Cummins unloaded that gets 18 MPG:

14.3 MPG 6,993 Gal to go 100K at $3.30 gal is $23,076.90

18 MPG 5,555 Gal to go 100K at $3.30 gal is $18,331.50

That $4,745.40 in fuel savings IF you go 100K. (You are not even doing 10K miles per year.) You loose $10-20K just driving a new HD truck off the lot.

Loaded others will tell you to do 62 MPH not 70 MPH to improve MPG. However your high single digit MPG towing isn't bad. With grades going from 1000' to 8000' I have seen 7 MPG on a 2003 Cummins with a Manual Trans. Yet it would get over 20 MPG with the AC off.

Agreed that it is somewhat a waste of money to trade in. But who doesn't want a new truck. Values are really high right now on trade ins getting $8k more than what was offered to me in May and have 10k more miles on the truck. Appreciate that break down on fuel cost.
 
9000 pound trailer is well within the limits of a 2500.
Mine is rated at 17,150 towing capacity, but is 2wd, but even a 4wd will still be nearly as high.
So, depending on what gooseneck you step up to, the 2500 may still be viable.
Rear air suspension is nearly an absolute must for the 2500 for towing, best option I ordered on mine.
Ride quality is much better than a 3500.

The 2500 is within the limits but I can't get pay the coil spring suspension. I towed trailer only a few miles to realize that wasn't going to work. I'm sure air suspension will help but I prefer leaf springs.
 
New to the forum here and had a few questions/looking for educated input.

I have a 2016 F350 Dully that has 34K miles on it and paid for that I love. I am honestly just tired of it doing a regen cycle every 250-300 miles. The fuel mileage is crap on it which I understand it is a large truck that is made to pull and not expecting unrealistic mpg but I'm averaging about 8.4 to 9 on most trips pulling a 32 foot trailer with race cars in it. Last weekend 200 mile trip no trailer running 70 mph I got 14.3 mpg (was over 15 till a regen cycle and it dropped to 12.8 then back up)

I used a 2020 Ram 2500 to pull the trailer and was not to impressed (can be expected coming from F350 dully to 2500). I did however like the 2500 mpg while towing and definitely not towing over my F350. I am now looking at a 2020 RAM 3500 dully, I think it is more than enough truck to do the job, my question is how much fuel mileage would I be sacrificing with the 3500 dully over the 2500 SRW?

Just for reference I would be using the truck as daily driver as well as towing nearly every weekend. This is why I was leaning towards SRW truck. Tow a 32' trailer total weight about 9K lbs. Also looking at getting a larger goose-neck trailer in the next couple years and don't want to have to get another truck later.

Thanks in advance for any input.

2500 sounds right to me. 9k is child's play for one of them.

Pulling MPG isn't really comparable from one truck to another, but I can tell you that before all the EPA nonsense fell off of my truck, I could get 22MPG on the Freeway, hand-calculated. In town was around 16-17. (2017 4WD CTD crewcab)

And I've experienced axactly one (1) Regen in my truck's life. The parts just fell off 500 miles ago.

Get a nice 2500 CTD and don't look back.
 
The 2500 is within the limits but I can't get pay the coil spring suspension. I towed trailer only a few miles to realize that wasn't going to work. I'm sure air suspension will help but I prefer leaf springs.

There's nothing wrong with coil springs on the 2500. Nothing. Less than nothing.

The air suspension is better, but there's absolutely nothing wrong with the coil spring suspension on the 2500
 
There's nothing wrong with coil springs on the 2500. Nothing. Less than nothing.

The air suspension is better, but there's absolutely nothing wrong with the coil spring suspension on the 2500

If this was the only trailer that I ever intended on pulling I would agree. However, I do intend on getting a goose-neck in the next couple years and potentially another fifth wheel in a few years.
 
If this was the only trailer that I ever intended on pulling I would agree. However, I do intend on getting a goose-neck in the next couple years and potentially another fifth wheel in a few years.

Whatever you decide, good luck. I'm sure you'll make the right decision for your needs
 
If this was the only trailer that I ever intended on pulling I would agree. However, I do intend on getting a goose-neck in the next couple years and potentially another fifth wheel in a few years.

I feel you are on the right track , the geometry on the 2500 is terrible , yes I know there are some people who love it, but the leafs are a much better option all around IMO and can ride good with some decent shocks.

As for the geometry issues on the 2500's
- Coils are way too far inboard creating horrible side to side stability with weight in the bed
- The lower control arm is wayy to high up on the axle and they are prone to wheel hop worse then leaf sprung trucks
- The rear track bar is too short , too much flex and creates a wiggle or rear steering input effect once they start to wear.

And thats when all the bushings are in good shape....
 
I feel you are on the right track , the geometry on the 2500 is terrible , yes I know there are some people who love it, but the leafs are a much better option all around IMO and can ride good with some decent shocks.

As for the geometry issues on the 2500's
- Coils are way too far inboard creating horrible side to side stability with weight in the bed
- The lower control arm is wayy to high up on the axle and they are prone to wheel hop worse then leaf sprung trucks
- The rear track bar is too short , too much flex and creates a wiggle or rear steering input effect once they start to wear.

And thats when all the bushings are in good shape....

I had my 04 and my 06 2500's... Which were leaf. Then I got a brand spanking new 2018 2500 with coils.... Hated it. Felt disconnected from the road for being a truck that heavy. I sold it for $2k less than I paid it for it and ordered a 2019 3500 MC SRW the way I wanted it. The main reason was to get back to the leaf rear... Couldn't be happier....I don't want sedan suspension in my rig. :D
 
I had my 04 and my 06 2500's... Which were leaf. Then I got a brand spanking new 2018 2500 with coils.... Hated it. Felt disconnected from the road for being a truck that heavy. I sold it for $2k less than I paid it for it and ordered a 2019 3500 MC SRW the way I wanted it. The main reason was to get back to the leaf rear... Couldn't be happier....I don't want sedan suspension in my rig. :D

The sad part is the 1500 geometry is great, they threw it all out the window with the 2500s for some reason. Obviously some people love it but I deal with these trucks everyday and hear of more and more issues daily. Every time I drive one I really cant figure out why people think they ride good, I sure dont but personal opinion and my personal truck is far from stock suspension wise. For the OP coming from a 3500 dually I dont see the coils springs feeling very confident inspiring at all.
 
If this was the only trailer that I ever intended on pulling I would agree. However, I do intend on getting a goose-neck in the next couple years and potentially another fifth wheel in a few years.
2500 with either the coils or especially the air bags, will tow a gooseneck or 5th wheel just fine, I do it with mine almost every week for 570,000 miles so far.

The 5-link rear suspension on the 2500 works very well, and rides very well. And, the air suspension just adds even more to the utility and ride.
 
And I've experienced axactly one (1) Regen in my truck's life. The parts just fell off 500 miles ago.

Unless you had less than 24 hours on your engine when stuff fell off, or other modifications not mentioned, you had more than 1 regen and you just didn't notice them. They are very seamless 13+. Even when I know my truck is in a regen because of my CTS2 I cannot tell by looking at anything on the dash. The truck only notifies you of a regen, pre 19, if its unable to complete a regen and the DPF gets near full. If regens complete normally there is zero indication to the driver, and they occur at least every 24 hours of engine run time.
 
2500 with either the coils or especially the air bags, will tow a gooseneck or 5th wheel just fine, I do it with mine almost every week for 570,000 miles so far.

The 5-link rear suspension on the 2500 works very well, and rides very well. And, the air suspension just adds even more to the utility and ride.

What all are you towing? I would prefer to go with a 2500 it just seemed like it was bottoming out the suspension when I pulled with it. Air bags may help but doesn't seem like that should be required.
 
I would prefer to go with a 2500

Why do you prefer this?

To be honest, even if you get the SO motor in a 3500, I can think of very few reasons to get a 2500 over a 3500 SRW... thou I bet there are a lot more 2500's on the road than the 3500.

The 3500 auto-level rides better than any 2500 I have ridden in, and that's before adjusting tire pressure.
TPIS on the 3500 (run the pressure you need) vs TPMS on the 2500 (run the pressure lawyers want you to run).. can be fixed with aftermarket TPMS reprogram
HO motor on the 3500, more power and a better transmission

The biggest reason I can think of where a 2500 is better is if you do anything commercial and need the 10K GVWR.
 
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