2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Control Arm Bushings

[ASimpson]

Id like to hear from people that have replaced their control arm bushings. Im looking at buying the energy suspension suspension kit from jegs or the like. How big of a job is it how hard is it to get the old bushings out? Im debating on wether to do the bushings or get all new aftermarket arms and i know there is a big difference in price. Thanks

 

[Joe Mc]

I haven't done the bushing replacement, I inspected mine and the rubber's pretty well cracked. When I'm ready to do something it will involve aftermarket arms as I feel the stamped steel factory units are not worthy of bushing replacement. MHO.



And indeed the aftermarket one's are pricey. Here's one fellows solution to aftermarket prices - scroll down beyond the 3/4 mark on his page for the Homemade Control Arms then browse the rest of the page - quite the clever fellow, eh?



Then here's a few options that give a bit of a lift with some nice control arms, new shocks etc.



3" Lift



5" Lift

 

[Nate]

They aren't too bad.



If you want to wait a few months I'm going to make some control arms and you can have my stockers. The bushings aren't even a year old.

 

[desertbull]

I have bad-azz control arms from Carli Suspension---check it out cuz they are designed to keep the stock arms from smacking the mount. . they use a Johnny Joint and they are designed and manufactured in house--they have tons of them. Made from 4130 Chromoly... Oo.

 

[KYOUNG]

I replaced a set on a 94 i had, they were all cracked up but were still intact. I had to heat the bushings with a torch and than press them out ,



I used Energy suspension to replace, didnt notice truck driving any better afterwords.

 

[SEmerson]

I put Energy suspension on my 97. I thought it made a big differnce. I used a press to take out the old ones.

 

[AMink]

I used the Energys on my 97. The swap out was a pia! A press is definately the way to go. I ended up torching, cutting, punching, and swearing to get mine out. Getting the Energys in was easy. I thought the ride was a little better.

 

[SMorneau]

My truck was getting too rusty to let it go. It is now in pieces. The axles and just about anything underneath that is removable is out getting sand blasted and painted (I hate powder coat under vehicles!). The control arms were a *****! We had to torch one of them out in the vehicle it was not fun. A couple of others we cut the bolts with a sawzall; but if you can get by the bushing sleave in the middle of the bushing forget it, they eat sawblades like candy. The problem with the control arms and the other bushing components, like the rear leaf spring eyes, is the bolts freeze inside the sleeves and become damn near impossible to get out. So the job could be easy if you have the tools and rust is not an issue. Otherwise it can quickly get difficult. Fortunately I had some excellent help from Jim and Aron of Triple D performance. Also have a fire extinguisher handy if the torch comes out.



I have a set of DT control arms on order. I ordered the stock length because I don't want to deal with interference issues with my trackbar mod and the diff cover or get any new problems like death wobble so I am pretty much trying to return the truck to stock geometry which works very well with my camper mounted up. My leveling kit is a camper and air bags. DT is the only places I found that sells stock length control arms. There are other fancier arms that might offer some benefits but I did not think they would provide me with any noticable advantage in my use.



With almost 300k miles on the truck the rubber bushings, everyone of them, could have been put back into service; the rear spring bushings are not getting changed. All of them had only slight cracking and deterioration. I doubt the poly bushings will do so well. I replaced my front and rear stabilizer bar bushings with stock rubber bushings that were very cheap from MOPAR4LESS.com. I also ordered a couple of hundred $$ worth of nuts and bolts for the underside of the truck from them.



As luck would have it my digital camera puked the day I started the rejuvenation process on my truck so I won't have much for pictures but the difference in condition and appearance of the undercarriage will be dramatic.



Good luck.

Scott

 

[JPittinger]

I went with polys, not bad once you get the stock rubber ones out. This worked for me: heat only the inside bushing till it shoots out. Yes, it shoots. Heat the outside till the rubber slides right out.



I was wondering if anyone has tried the stock type replacements (like from RockAuto). They have the metal outer case and would have to press in. How hard was it to press the old ones out without damaging the arms? Same for putting the new ones back in?

-JJ

 

[Nate]

I don't know what control arms they had in earlier trucks, but I did mine (98) and also a 99 and an 01.



The bushings are flared with some sort of tool to hold in. Just a matter of bending the flare with a punch and hammer, then a few whacks with a hammer and they come right out.



To hold them in place after, I just tack welded them in a couple spots.

 

[wcjp]

On my 96' I replaced the stock bushing with stock rubber replacements. I had Napa press the new bushing into place. After doing one of the bushings I was done. Polyurethane would've been cheaper.

 

[JJanetka]

I'm having the same fun you did Smorneau. So far I only tackled the lower driver side and had to sawzall the bolts. Like you said , the hardened bolts turn blades into butter knives pretty fast. Access to the other bolts look to be difficult at best. I figure it will be easier to torch them out. Original bushing removal was easy in comparison, just heated the sleeves red hot and pulled them out. The rubber bushing then just popped out. I used enegy suspension which use the original steel sleeves. Install was easy as stated. After applying the lube they supplied(some of the tackiest stuff I've ever seen) they pshed in by hand.