Coolant leak

[Topzide]

@Cummins2014 , The upper y pipe hose was replaced due to failure prior to me getting truck from FIL but he supplied me with a spare! Was looking at the billet pipes, $130 ea! I might try my luck at building one with what me old neighbor taught me. Since I have a pressure tester, could build and test before placing into service. These trucks are a labor of love, you love them and you love to hate them at times! If this one give have the service as it's little brother, I'd be happy!

 

[Cummins2014]

@Cummins2014 , The upper y pipe hose was replaced due to failure prior to me getting truck from FIL but he supplied me with a spare! Was looking at the billet pipes, $130 ea! I might try my luck at building one with what me old neighbor taught me. Since I have a pressure tester, could build and test before placing into service. These trucks are a labor of love, you love them and you love to hate them at times! If this one give have the service as it's little brother, I'd be happy!

If I would buy the tig gun attachment for my mig welder I could do one, but I would have more invested in the gun then just buying the replacement part Not much use for a Tig , thought about one ,but I know I wouldn't use it enough to invest in one . I do a fair amount of steel work still ,even after I had retired .

I will replace with that XDP , ya I see them for $139, compared to $116 for the OE plastic, doesn't make sense to go with another plastic OEM for that price difference ,although talking with another member here on the phone yesterday , those OEM plastic Y-pipes have been upgrade a couple times ,so they may be a better product now.

Yes its a love hate with these trucks for sure.

 

[Cummins2014]

My younger son's 2013 failed the water pump last week. He drove the truck home and parked it in the garage, he saw fluid dripping out of the bottom of the truck. He look at the engine and the entire passenger side was wet. His water pump did not have the weep hole in the pump.
After buying a pump from Geno's and several swear words later the truck is back in order.

Pretty sure its not the water pump , its dry over there ,and no signs of ever having a leak, plus that puddle was pretty close to the drivers side tire, and I could see a few drops hanging off a couple spots directly under that y-pipe. I will hopefully know here pretty quick. I am headed over to a auto parts to get a pressure tester .

 

[Cummins2014]

Thanks for all the help, yup its the Y-pipe, leaking at the bottom where the Y comes together , just where one of the replies I believe mentioned. I'ts a small crack for sure , just a few drops out of it pressurized to 20 psi. Only thing that baffles me is how much it leaked out the the other day, yet not a drop the next day . Plus it's the only time I have ever seen it leak ,just that one time . Anyway I am going to order a new one .

 

[Topzide]

@Cummins2014, Neighbor got me started with scratch start TIG. I've got an AC/DC tombstone to work with. Any DC rod welder can be used this way. I've already had to fix tailpipe that broke at coupler! Had stainless sch 80 to make new coupler with. Don't think it'll break at that joint anytime soon! Newer y-pipe hose is a better than was stock. Sometimes it's nice to have the tools to make or due something, but never fails to happen at that time! Could get you a hose, torch and cups, you'd just need Argon and regulator besides a DC welder, if you wanted to play! Either way, you'll know it's fixed right!

 

[josephc1]

Get upper and lower rad hoses for a 2015 along with the expansion hose from the rad to the fill tank and end the "Y" pipe issue forever. Over a year now with that setup, temp runs the same, no issues.

 

[EDankievitch]

I was thinking of doing the same. Eliminating the forward radiator. I was going to remove it until I saw it holds the Ac and transmission coolers. Doorman makes a cast aluminum Y pipe and hose for the lower hose. I used the Y pipe from one of the doorman kits to replace the upper one. It slightly larger and was a tough install but it worked. Coming up on my mileage coolant flush. When I do I’ll do the water pump and the lower hose as well.

 

[Cummins2014]

@Cummins2014, Neighbor got me started with scratch start TIG. I've got an AC/DC tombstone to work with. Any DC rod welder can be used this way. I've already had to fix tailpipe that broke at coupler! Had stainless sch 80 to make new coupler with. Don't think it'll break at that joint anytime soon! Newer y-pipe hose is a better than was stock. Sometimes it's nice to have the tools to make or due something, but never fails to happen at that time! Could get you a hose, torch and cups, you'd just need Argon and regulator besides a DC welder, if you wanted to play! Either way, you'll know it's fixed right!

Don't use my stick welders much these days . I actually sold my AC/DC stick welder a few years ago. All the welding I did I used my Miller AC stick welder. Now-days I have a Lincoln Mig Welder ,and all I use on it is flux core wire, don't want to mess with gas bottles . Never looked into stainless or anything like that, just plain old A-36 is all weld.

 

[Cummins2014]

I was thinking of doing the same. Eliminating the forward radiator. I was going to remove it until I saw it holds the Ac and transmission coolers. Doorman makes a cast aluminum Y pipe and hose for the lower hose. I used the Y pipe from one of the doorman kits to replace the upper one. It slightly larger and was a tough install but it worked. Coming up on my mileage coolant flush. When I do I’ll do the water pump and the lower hose as well.

Is there any reason to do away with one of the radiators, other then the troublesome Y-pipe ? Sure seems like a quality aluminum Y-pipe would solve that issue .

 

[Cummins2014]

Get upper and lower rad hoses for a 2015 along with the expansion hose from the rad to the fill tank and end the "Y" pipe issue forever. Over a year now with that setup, temp runs the same, no issues.

I can see eliminating the Y-pipe, and one of the radiators if there was not a good alternative ,seems like a lot of work changing all the hoses when one good aluminum upper y-pipe solves any issues there. Not sure I have read of many problems with the lower ,being that it doesn't see the heat cycles like the upper . Or just changing out both the upper ,and lower with aluminum one piece cast Y-pipes would also eliminate any further Y-pipe issues .

 

[Topzide]

@Cummins2014 , Look what I just found, https://www.mishimoto.com/ram-6-7l-cummins-coolant-y-pipe-2013-2014.html , not sure if you would want to go this route. I might get for the future when I do my next coolant flush!

 

[Cummins2014]

@Cummins2014 , Look what I just found, https://www.mishimoto.com/ram-6-7l-cummins-coolant-y-pipe-2013-2014.html , not sure if you would want to go this route. I might get for the future when I do my next coolant flush!

I sent you a PM on a good deal I came across .

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

Check at Oreilly’s for the y pipe. I replaced quite a few of them with the kits you get from Oreilly’s on our work trucks and they have held up great. The y pipe is metal and not welded. You get the y pipe and the two upper hoses in the kit. I believe it’s right around $100.

 

[Cummins2014]

Y-pipe is replaced , and all is well . Took the advice of gsbrockman , and went with the upgraded OEM part . Have had two or three revisions sine the originals . Time will tell .

 

[Ozymandias]

As a side note, there are one piece hoses out there to get rid of the y-piece all together.

 

[Cummins2014]

As a side note, there are one piece hoses out there to get rid of the y-piece all together.

I looked at a lot of alternatives , if you are referring to the Mishimoto silicone hoses, seen those ,pretty expensive for what they are . From the advice as said from gsbrockman ,and talking to Geno's on the OE replacement ,that's the route I went.

 

[Ozymandias]

I looked at a lot of alternatives , if you are referring to the Mishimoto silicone hoses, seen those ,pretty expensive for what they are . From the advice as said from gsbrockman ,and talking to Geno's on the OE replacement ,that's the route I went.

I'd have choosen OEM too. They are sure better now then the first ones.

 

[Cummins2014]

I'd have choosen OEM too. They are sure better now then the first ones.

It made the most sense to me, and the fit is good, plus the fact they have been improved . Its not like they explode ,and spray coolant all over the place , mine without a pressure check has been leaking ,and I couldn't find where it was leaking until the pressure test.