could sorry u joints, have led to no more 70k warranty???

[TKeeler]

Front U-Joints

Pretty sure my '07 has a right front u-joint problem as is being described in this thread. Starting hearing like a squeaking noise when I would turn with it in 4H not long ago now when I go around a corner in 2H it feels like I am in 4H with the wheel/tire hop. Jacked up the front end, turned the wheel to the right and sure enough it turns very hard, gets easier and turns hard again. Haven't even made it to 36,000 miles yet of mostly highway driving but did buy extended warranty before the 3yr factory warranty ran out... waiting for service dept. to call me back. Glad I read the posts here about jacking up the front end and turning the wheel.

 

[rscurtis]

One of the reasons for the demise of the style of axle used in first gen's was the enhanced steering angle provided by an axle with ball joints. With the older style axle, you needed an empty Home Depot parking lot to make a U-turn. The Dana 60 in the second generation solved this, but at the expense of tire wear. The AA in the third gen is almost as tight, but has correct steering geometry. Greaseable ball joints would have made it almost perfect.

 

[TKeeler]

One of the reasons for the demise of the style of axle used in first gen's was the enhanced steering angle provided by an axle with ball joints. With the older style axle, you needed an empty Home Depot parking lot to make a U-turn. The Dana 60 in the second generation solved this, but at the expense of tire wear. The AA in the third gen is almost as tight, but has correct steering geometry. Greaseable ball joints would have made it almost perfect.

Its too bad so many things are being made as 'disposable' these days instead of 'greaseable'. I will find out Tuesday for sure but theres little doubt in my mind that the right u-joint is shot... now I wonder how long before the left side goes out? Was one side more prone to failure than another?

 

[AMink]

I know there is something going on in my 06. Even slight turns on a freshly paved road result in very light "popping" sensations either in the floorboard or maybe the steering wheel. I haven't had a chance to get under there and look yet.

 

[TKeeler]

I drove my '98. 5 Ram for almost 10 years and over 100,000 miles w/o a single front u-joint problem now the '07. 5 w/ less than 36,000 miles already has a problem under the same driving conditions. Now if this is a trend and continues then something has definitely changed in these parts. Now I wonder how long before the other side starts to be a problem. #@$%!

 

[DDevers]

It is interesting how some attribute the problems with our trucks to abuse. If I didn't know better, I'd say they were either Dodge salesmen or engineers. The steering box went out on mine at 39,000 miles, replaced the front ball joints at 45,000. The first carrier bearing went at 15,000 and the second at 73,000. So far, the only U-joint I have had to replace is the center rear drive shaft but I know from this site that the others will require it soon.



I do not hot rod my truck. It has carried a load periodically but isn't that what a one ton is made to do?



I don't know about GM trucks but my older brother replaced the front ball joints on his 3/4 ton Ford at 35,000 and a friend had to replace his at 69,000.



Personally, I don't think the U-joints and ball joints are designed for the stress they receive from the heavy diesel engines nor the torque the diesels have.

 

[ramlover14]

I think have the problem is that a $. 25 grease or less fitting per joint is most of the problem. 05 2500 4x4 all u-joints but front drive shaft replaced at 75,000 miles with NAPA greaseable joints.

 

[rscurtis]

One of the things I did to my '03 was to drill the uppers for grease fittings, and occasionally lube the lowers with a needle, for whatever benefit that may provide. At 61K miles, the uppers have no play and the lowers have very little. Tires wear perfectly, should go to 90K miles. Keep in mind this is a personal use vehicle, and does not see the wear factors that many others do.

 

[Wingate]

Guys, alot of these OEM parts that came on our trucks are made in the same plants that make Ford and GM parts. IMHO, several factors are contributing to the increased failure rate. The first of which would be that most of these parts are being manufactured outside of the United States. Whether it be China, India, Mexico... etc. . It really doesnt matter. Its a numbers game much like many other industries these days. Typically the mindset is ," Well, we can manufacture twice as many overseas for the same price as US built parts, who cares if 10% of them fail!!" These parts are inferior in quality of the steel used to build them, and most of the time, dimensional tolerances are loose (I blame the english/metric conversion)

Although we cannot control where the manufacturer buys parts from, we CAN solve MANY of these issues buy purchasing proven/quality parts. Yes, they are more expensive, but will typically give better service and last longer. I remember rebuilding the manual hubs on my 89 CTD with 300K, I actually pulled the shafts, but there was NO wear in the Spicer U-joints... And that truck was ALWAYS being abused.

Secondly, the trucks are getting more and more power that is creating more load on parts, yet we have moved from rebuildable and servicable parts, to disposable diapers!!!! What little grease that is installed at the overseas factory will typically be sheared away leaving little to no lubrication. Now, with no grease zerk to replace it... We have another failing part.

I think all of us that have a 3rd gen 4x4 have the sticker under the hood that mandates that we grease the zerk in the half shaft..... I learned early on that the dealerships were NO help and merely there to sell parts. When my truck was new, I asked the local dealership "Master Technician" about the proper grease gun attachment and was stunned by the answer... "Oh you dont use a grease gun on it, you just spray it with spray grease from an aerosol can. " I explained that his thought process would only grease the underside of the body once I drove down the road, and he assured me he was right!!!. .

Its not just Dodge, our GM and Ford service trucks have had multitudes of front end parts changed. What we DID learn thru trial and error was that the local independent 4x4 and off-road shops carry quality built, US made parts that stand up to the abuses of serious offroad use...

I'm just waiting for the u-joints on my truck to fail. I know they will soon just by the number of threads on low hour failures on the 3rd gens. When they do, I will install quality, US made greasable parts back in their places. If I were to run down to Autozone, Orileys. . etc. . and shop by price, should I then expect the new part to last any longer than the OEM part???. . Chances are, if they didnt come from the same factory, they were made from the same mold prints!!.

ok. . i'll quit ranting. .

 

[bigblock_doc]

Replaced the rear joint at 90,000. Replaced the front axle joints at 125,000. But that

curtails removing the hub bearing assy. Well my friends, that was a real experence in

itself. After heating and beating the rotors, they were shot. Then came the hub.

After heating and beating again, finaly used the tourch and cut into the hub and into

the bearing,and a little air chiseling it finaly came out. Then pull the axle shafts out to finaly get to the ball joints. The hardest 17 hours I spent in a long time. Working in

the driveway on jack stands.



03--2500--4wd--auto

Of course I live in Michigan, rusty belt. Body still in good shape. Might have jinxst myself

on that one.

 

[TKeeler]

I just had both the front ujoints replaced under warranty at less than 36,000 miles. It started with the passenger side and the shop said that the driver side wasn't far behind so they changed it as well. Had it not been covered under warranty not sure what it would have cost.