Cowl hood seal

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The seal that runs along the cowl and seals against the back of the hood on my truck is coming loose on one end about halfway across does anybody have any suggestions on what to do or use to hold this seal back in place. As it is, when it comes loose it falls down close to the turbo and down pipe and I am afraid it is going to touch and melt if I don't get it to stay put.

Thanks,
Paul

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'96 2500 ext. cab, LB, 4x4, 5 speed, 3. 54, TST 280 cam plate, AFC spring kit ,pyro and boost gauges mounted on A-Pillar

 

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Run a small bead of weatherstrip adhesive, available at any auto part store, inside the crack on the strip and stick it back on.

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98. 5 3500 QC 4x4
Driftwood/ Grey Int.
5 spd, 3. 54
PowerMax2, Dual Designs
Ranchhand bumbers and toolbox, dual 3" with 5" tips, "Scotty Air System", Centerforce Dual Friction clutch, Autometer Gauges, Cobra CB, Sony CD player, Polk Audio Speakers, Upgraded fuel lines from tank to injector pump. Coming this summer: JRE 4" exhaust, DD stage III, McLeod dual disc clutch.

69 Z-28 Camaro, Silver/Black, original motor, 58,000 miles

Building: 32 (Censored) 5 Window, "American Graffiti" replica

 

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Mine was doing the same thing until a buddie of mine showed me that if you twist the seal and squeeze it, then pop it back on, it stays. I think there is some kind of soft "forming" metal inside the rubber groove that holds it on better when kinked.

 

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Mine already fell off... . I never really paid a lot of attention to it and now I am not sure which way it is supposed to go on, with the flap up or the flap down... It looks like the flap up makes the most sense. As soon as someone tells me which way it goes I will take the weather strip adhesive to it. #ad


98 - 3500 12V, Vac Hyd trailer brakes and Gooseneck ball, Stock.

 

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The round part goes up and seals against the hood. The flap hangs down and protects the factory harness that strings across. You might try kinking the seal before you use that awful Awkempucky to hold it on. Mine's stayed on good w/o the need of goop #ad
my . 02

 

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Thanks... . I qive the twist and kink a try first but if it falls off again it gets the Awkempucky #ad
I will let you know what happens.....

 

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Mine's been falling off since two weeks after I got the truck. I tried the weatherstrip adhesive trick and it still falls off. Another DC engineering masterpiece. Good thing those guys don't design condoms.

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96 2500 E-Cab, 4x4, 5sp/3. 54, NRA sticker, etc, etc.

 

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Mine was also falling off and all I did was squeeze the end that sits over the lip ont the truck and its been fine ever since, about a year ago now.

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`96 3500 4x4, JRE Stage 2 kit, JRE 4" exhaust from turbo back, low stall speed torque converter, shift kit, K&N air filter

 

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Here's a "cheapie" #ad
invention that beats (so far) the "twist" (which I didn't know about) and the Auckempucky (did I spell that right) #ad


Get a long piece of stiff wire,or,like I did, a "thrashed" hacksaw blade... slip it inside the round, tubular part (now it's a CORE STIFFENER). Press your narrow piece back into place on the edge of the sheetmetal... with a small bungee cord, carefully puncture the foam and attach the hook around the (now enclosed) wire or saw blade (CORE STIFFENER!!!!) and anchor the opposite end to the rain-drip grid under the lower edge of the windshield. you can also poke the end of the core stiffener into that cheesy foam block at the end of the cowl gasket, because eventually that adhesive (must not have used good quality Auckempucky at the factory) will also eventually fail... Did mine a couple of weeks ago... hasn't budged, nor shown any sign of wanting to tear thru--- the other end seems OK---must be the heat after shut-down causing the Auckempucky to decompose..... nothin' i hate worse than decomposed Auckempucky #ad
When you close the hood, the repair is invisible to the "outside world"---it'll be our little secret #ad
---rich m

 

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Black RTV. Mine was always falling off until I filled the seam, pushed it on and wiped off the excess. Invisible and works perfectly.

Same trick to hold the mirror grommets in on my towing mirrors. Really sucked to pull a wide 5th wheel home 300 miles with no rearward visiblity. The damn mirror just fell out and shattered while slowing down to stop on a gravel road with a little washboard!

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Dean Jahnz
Black '94 dually (first on the block!), TST 230hp, Transgo shift kit, combo guage, 28' gooseneck camper/hauler, '83 Toyota extreme terrain 4x4.
My motto: The Most is Barely Enough!

 

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I had that cheesy foam block at the end of the cowl gasket fall off too. #ad
I just happened to have some of that silicone gasket glue handy when it fell off in my hand. It hasn't come loose since. #ad
#ad


[This message has been edited by Patches (edited 05-17-2000). ]

 

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OK Guys, here is the fix, the real deal, takes a few minutes, won't fall off, doesn't cost anything, no sealant required. (Don't you wish they were all this way?) Take the seal off and look closely at where it should be gripping the seam on the firewall. You should see a slightly crimped spot every few inches (I said closely!) Take a pliers and squeeze them tighter. You may not have to do all of them (remember which area fall off). Don't squeeze too hard or you will have a difficult time reinstalling (small block of wood and a hammer if you gat carried away). This is how it is attached on the ones that don't fall off. I've done 2 trucks (both '94s) 3 years ago and they haven't fallen off yet. My $. 02 worth.

 

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I did the crimp it tighter with a pair of pliers fix and so far the seal is staying in place. Looks like it is fixed... Thanks to Extreme1... That was a much better fix than the Awkempucky #ad

 

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Over the river and and through the woods to the Chassis forum we go!

Uh, never mind... . This is more appropriate over there, and might get some more participation.

Thanks
mark

 

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I also used black RTV at each end and in the middle of the rubber seal to reattach the seal to the cowl. By attaching the seal in this manor it is possible to remove the seal at a later date (as I found out recently during a BOMBing project) although, the seal WILL remain in place until you WANT TO remove it.

As for the L-shaped foam end seals, I'm currently on my third pair (they keep squishing out of their designated locations after driving). The last set I installed (just recently), I removed the double back tape from the back side (by carefully heating the tape with a heat gun and gently removing same), using Loctite Stik'N Seal waterproof adhesive to reinstall the seals. Careful cleaning of the plastic cowl cover is also the secret to good adhesion. It has been about a month and the seals are still in the EXACT location I installed them. This should be the last time I will have to replace these little buggers. #ad


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'98. 5 2500 QC 4x4, (BLACK) SLT Sport, ISB, LWB, 3. 54 LSD, A/T, Glasstite Vision II canopy, Line-X bed liner, 285/75R16 BFG A/Ts on 16x8 M/T Challengers, Warn 4X Boards, Mopar fender flares, front and rear NW Custom stainless steel/rubber mud flaps, Mag-Hytec diff. cover and trans. pan, Edelbrock IAS shocks, Mopar tow hooks, Reese Titan V hitch, Jordan Research Ultima 2020 trailer brake controller, VDO Vision gauges, '00 Sport grille, '00 Sport headlights with PIAA Super White 9007/9004 bulbs, 4-2-7+4 Brite-Box, PIAA Dual Sport 900 auxiliary lights, BD exhaust brake and TorqLoc, Prime-Loc fuel filter relocation kit, Bosch 275 hp. injectors, VA CPC, DD Boost Module, Banks Stinger wastegate actuator, BLACK '00 valve cover, Banks Stinger 4" dia. stainless steel exhaust system, BD LV V10/Cummins hybrid TC and valve body, BD modified transmission front pump and PressureLoc, plus many other trick modifications