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Curb Height Lowering Package
- Thread starter rspeers
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My father-in-law just did that to his truck several weeks ago. It seemed to lower the tail of his truck about 3 to 4 inches.
The took the overload springs off and had a smaller spacer in place of the original one.
He said it help smooth out his ride and level the truck (he has a 4x4 long bed).
I'm thinking about doing that to my truck... but I like the height of my truck (I don't want the cars behind me looking over my truck during traffic hour).
Frank
The took the overload springs off and had a smaller spacer in place of the original one.
He said it help smooth out his ride and level the truck (he has a 4x4 long bed).
I'm thinking about doing that to my truck... but I like the height of my truck (I don't want the cars behind me looking over my truck during traffic hour).
Frank
truck rear height
My advice would be to stay away from the dealer method unless you are under warranty. Their price is outrageous - around $700! (there is a TSB they will honor IF you are still under warranty) I ended up going to a local suspension shop and they simply replaced the 4 inch stock blocks between axle and spring with 2 inch blocks. That seems to work very well - the truck still sits about 1. 5 inches higher in the back. It cost me a bit over $100 and I now have about 6 inches between the bottom of my 5th wheel and the top of the truck box.
My advice would be to stay away from the dealer method unless you are under warranty. Their price is outrageous - around $700! (there is a TSB they will honor IF you are still under warranty) I ended up going to a local suspension shop and they simply replaced the 4 inch stock blocks between axle and spring with 2 inch blocks. That seems to work very well - the truck still sits about 1. 5 inches higher in the back. It cost me a bit over $100 and I now have about 6 inches between the bottom of my 5th wheel and the top of the truck box.
rspeers,
Welcome aboard! I lowered the rear end of my truck a few months ago, and have a few words of wisdom that may help you out a little.
First off, the factory spacers on my '01. 5 4x4 were 4. 875 inches tall, not 4 inches. I'm pretty sure all year models are the same. I have read that the TSB lowering kit contains spacers that are 2 inches shorter, or 2. 875 inches tall.
The reason I mention this is that I am pretty sure that 2 inch spacers will make your truck a little too low in the rear.
If the search feature is working, do a search on a guy with the TDR handle JumboJet. He built some home made 2. 5 inch spacers, and posted some good photos of this setup a few months ago. His post also contained some sketches of the homebuilt blocks. If the search feature is still down, you should be able to find his post in the towing/hauling section if you "hand search" the posts from around 2 - 3 months ago.
I made up some 2. 5 inch blocks per JumboJet's design. Jumbo also installed some . 5 inch blocks under his overload springs to make them engage sooner, I made up some . 5 inch blocks, but have not decided whether or not to install them. I have not towed since lowering the truck. I'll install the . 5 inch blocks if the trailer tounge weight makes the truck squat down too much.
Your shocks should be fine, After I installed my 2. 5 inch blocks, I unbolted one of my shocks and compressed it by hand to see how much travel remained. I didn't measure the travel, but it appears to be adequate, not quite enough shock travel to allow the axle to bottom out on the rubber bumper before bottoming the shock, but close.
As JumboJet's photos show, 2. 5 inch blocks make the truck sit almost level when empty. I have been very pleased with the results of my lowering operation, I know I'm in the minority here, but I like the looks of the lowered/leveled truck. No matter what your opinoin on the looks, no one can deny the truck is much more usable without the tail gate height dam near 4 feet off the ground. I didn't measure how much the tailgate height changed, but since it's cantalevered a couple of feet aft of the axle, the 2. 375 inch difference in spacer thickness translates to a much greater drop in the height of the gate. My wife loves it, she is 5'5", and had a h@ll of a time loading anything into the bed before I installed the new blocks. Even though I'm 6'3", I really appreciate not having to lift cargo a mile off the ground to get it into the bed.
Making up a homemade lowering kit fairly inexpensive ($60 for blocks, & $36 for u-bolts in my case). It is also a breeze to install... probably takes about an hour working at a liesurely pace, however, before you do it, check with your dealer. Some guys have reported getting the factory kit installed at no cost, I guess it depends on the dealer. I didn't even inquire because at the time I did mine, I was not aware that some dealers were doing the lowering TSB for free, it never hurts to ask... may be able to save 100 bucks or so. Good luck!
Welcome aboard! I lowered the rear end of my truck a few months ago, and have a few words of wisdom that may help you out a little.
First off, the factory spacers on my '01. 5 4x4 were 4. 875 inches tall, not 4 inches. I'm pretty sure all year models are the same. I have read that the TSB lowering kit contains spacers that are 2 inches shorter, or 2. 875 inches tall.
The reason I mention this is that I am pretty sure that 2 inch spacers will make your truck a little too low in the rear.
If the search feature is working, do a search on a guy with the TDR handle JumboJet. He built some home made 2. 5 inch spacers, and posted some good photos of this setup a few months ago. His post also contained some sketches of the homebuilt blocks. If the search feature is still down, you should be able to find his post in the towing/hauling section if you "hand search" the posts from around 2 - 3 months ago.
I made up some 2. 5 inch blocks per JumboJet's design. Jumbo also installed some . 5 inch blocks under his overload springs to make them engage sooner, I made up some . 5 inch blocks, but have not decided whether or not to install them. I have not towed since lowering the truck. I'll install the . 5 inch blocks if the trailer tounge weight makes the truck squat down too much.
Your shocks should be fine, After I installed my 2. 5 inch blocks, I unbolted one of my shocks and compressed it by hand to see how much travel remained. I didn't measure the travel, but it appears to be adequate, not quite enough shock travel to allow the axle to bottom out on the rubber bumper before bottoming the shock, but close.
As JumboJet's photos show, 2. 5 inch blocks make the truck sit almost level when empty. I have been very pleased with the results of my lowering operation, I know I'm in the minority here, but I like the looks of the lowered/leveled truck. No matter what your opinoin on the looks, no one can deny the truck is much more usable without the tail gate height dam near 4 feet off the ground. I didn't measure how much the tailgate height changed, but since it's cantalevered a couple of feet aft of the axle, the 2. 375 inch difference in spacer thickness translates to a much greater drop in the height of the gate. My wife loves it, she is 5'5", and had a h@ll of a time loading anything into the bed before I installed the new blocks. Even though I'm 6'3", I really appreciate not having to lift cargo a mile off the ground to get it into the bed.
Making up a homemade lowering kit fairly inexpensive ($60 for blocks, & $36 for u-bolts in my case). It is also a breeze to install... probably takes about an hour working at a liesurely pace, however, before you do it, check with your dealer. Some guys have reported getting the factory kit installed at no cost, I guess it depends on the dealer. I didn't even inquire because at the time I did mine, I was not aware that some dealers were doing the lowering TSB for free, it never hurts to ask... may be able to save 100 bucks or so. Good luck!
lowering blocks
Redram1 & JPS,
I didn't mean to imply the blocks were exactly 4" and 2", but there was a nominal 2" drop. As I mentioned, I got the job done including parts and labor for a bit over $100, so I don't know if it is worth making the blocks yourself - up to you of course. The shop that did my lowering ordered the parts from a catalog of some kind, and if you are interested, I will find out the name of the company that makes the blocks. He did replace the "U" bolts too. Prior to the change, my truck was more than 4" higher in the back than in the front. After the change, the rear is still about 1. 5" higher in the back (unloaded). With my 5th wheel hooked up (about 1900 lbs pin weight) it sits about level and I have 6" between the top of the box near the tailgate and the bottom of the 5th wheel. I too can't see why the trucks come from the factory so high in the back - the way mine is now is much better in my opinion. Let me know if you want the name of the company and/or the part numbers that were used on my truck.
Redram1 & JPS,
I didn't mean to imply the blocks were exactly 4" and 2", but there was a nominal 2" drop. As I mentioned, I got the job done including parts and labor for a bit over $100, so I don't know if it is worth making the blocks yourself - up to you of course. The shop that did my lowering ordered the parts from a catalog of some kind, and if you are interested, I will find out the name of the company that makes the blocks. He did replace the "U" bolts too. Prior to the change, my truck was more than 4" higher in the back than in the front. After the change, the rear is still about 1. 5" higher in the back (unloaded). With my 5th wheel hooked up (about 1900 lbs pin weight) it sits about level and I have 6" between the top of the box near the tailgate and the bottom of the 5th wheel. I too can't see why the trucks come from the factory so high in the back - the way mine is now is much better in my opinion. Let me know if you want the name of the company and/or the part numbers that were used on my truck.
It would been nice to just purchase the blocks, but fabricating them was not too bad. I had a weld shop cut me two 3 x 6 x 2 blocks, and two 3 x 6 x . 5 blocks (didn't have 2. 5 plate). I welded them together to come up with 2. 5 inches total thickness.
There is a locating hole on the top of the block, dead center in the middle, that picks up a pin on the leaf spring, this hole needs to be ~. 5 inch deep. Dead center on the bottom of the block you will need to install a pin that fits into a hole in the mounting plate on the rear axle. The pin should protrude around . 25 inches or so.
I am working from my sometimes faulty memory, but I am almost sure the hole was 13/16 dia, and the pin was 23/32 dia. I drilled a . 25 pilot hole all the way thru (the hole/pin need to be in line). I opened the top to 13/16 to a depth of around . 5, the bottom to 23/32 around one inch deep. I had my buddy turn me a pin to fit the 23/32 hole and protrude about . 25 inches.
It took a fair amount of time/running around to get the blocks fabricated, and if I had known of a source for some prefabricatd parts, I would have probably gone that route.
There is a locating hole on the top of the block, dead center in the middle, that picks up a pin on the leaf spring, this hole needs to be ~. 5 inch deep. Dead center on the bottom of the block you will need to install a pin that fits into a hole in the mounting plate on the rear axle. The pin should protrude around . 25 inches or so.
I am working from my sometimes faulty memory, but I am almost sure the hole was 13/16 dia, and the pin was 23/32 dia. I drilled a . 25 pilot hole all the way thru (the hole/pin need to be in line). I opened the top to 13/16 to a depth of around . 5, the bottom to 23/32 around one inch deep. I had my buddy turn me a pin to fit the 23/32 hole and protrude about . 25 inches.
It took a fair amount of time/running around to get the blocks fabricated, and if I had known of a source for some prefabricatd parts, I would have probably gone that route.
ride
Frank,
Ride is the same from what I can tell. You really are not changing the suspension geometry and/or characteristics other than putting the axle closer to the spring. All the relationships from the springs to the frame stay the same.
The ride is part of the package, the way I look at it. My Park Ave rides far far better, but would look really sick with the 5th wheel hooked up!
Frank,
Ride is the same from what I can tell. You really are not changing the suspension geometry and/or characteristics other than putting the axle closer to the spring. All the relationships from the springs to the frame stay the same.
The ride is part of the package, the way I look at it. My Park Ave rides far far better, but would look really sick with the 5th wheel hooked up!
ftb87,
I can't really tell any difference in the way my truck rides, it does seem to handle a little better though, i. e. less body roll when cornering, and slightly better steering feel (I'm fortunate that my truck did not wander before or after lowering).
The slightly enhanced handling may all be in my imagination, because any improvement is very subtle, but I believe it is a little better. It would seem that lowering the cg would have to improve the handling a little.
I can't really tell any difference in the way my truck rides, it does seem to handle a little better though, i. e. less body roll when cornering, and slightly better steering feel (I'm fortunate that my truck did not wander before or after lowering).
The slightly enhanced handling may all be in my imagination, because any improvement is very subtle, but I believe it is a little better. It would seem that lowering the cg would have to improve the handling a little.
I had the Dodge TSB done under warranty about 6 weeks ago, and love it. Much easier to get in and out of and load the bed. 5er matches up better. Thumbs up. I think DC should make it a no charge factory option.
http://www.klenger.net/dodge/tsb-lower-rear-axle.html
http://www.klenger.net/dodge/tsb-lower-rear-axle.html
Last edited:
David Wheeler
TDR MEMBER
HemiDart....
Now I know what happens when you drastically overload our trucks :-laf :-laf :-laf
Now I know what happens when you drastically overload our trucks :-laf :-laf :-laf
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Issue 128 – Digital Version
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FREE!
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Renew
Subscribe
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Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
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Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
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