Cutting off while driving.

[Got HO?]

My 2003 has died three times in 2 days while driving. No pattern to it. After it stalls, I see no tach movement when trying to restart it. It takes between 1 to 5 minutes to restart and today it died twice within a mile of driving. Not fun in traffic. No fault codes, instrument lights behave normally, but as said, the tach needle will move once when turning the key on, but no needle bounce when cranking. The tach normally moves slightly when all is well. Crank and/or cam sensor?

 

[JJPage]

After proving the lift pump is functioning, take the TST out of the equation, report back.

 

[Got HO?]

Lift pump is operating, I have a frame mounted pump and I can hear it when cycling the key. TST display is live, but I hadn't thought of that one. Thanks. I have replacement crank & cam sensors on the way (same part # for both) but will also isolate the TST.

 

[HBarlow]

Inspect, clean, and reinstall your battery cables properly tightened. This can happen with corroded or loose battery cables.

 

[Got HO?]

Inspect, clean, and reinstall your battery cables properly tightened. This can happen with corroded or loose battery cables.

Batteries are 6 months old, cables and terminals are tight and corrosion free.

 

[RustyJC]

If all else fails, here's something else to check. My wife's 2000 Durango started doing this - it would go absolutely dead without any warning, but would restart pretty much immediately. Long story short - it turned out to be a cracked motherboard in the ECU that would randomly open up one of the solder tracks. When it would cool down, it would make the connection again and run for a day, a week or two weeks before doing it again. The only way the dealer found it was to leave it idling for hours with the hood closed and the A/C on to drive up the underhood temperatures, and it finally quit in the shop when they had an event monitor hooked up to it. It was replaced under the emissions warranty (of all things). My wife never trusted the Durango again, though, and it has been replaced.



Rusty

 

[JJPage]

TST display is live, but I hadn't thought of that one. Thanks. I have replacement crank & cam sensors on the way (same part # for both) but will also isolate the TST.

TST sent me a bypass plug, it plugs into the harness so you can remove the box and still use your vehicle. I used it when I sent my box in for repair/upgrade, that way you do not have to remove the whole harness, although the harness could also be the issue. That's why you may have to remove it all to troubleshoot.

I carry the bypass plug with me all the time now, just in case...

 

[Got HO?]

TST sent me a bypass plug, it plugs into the harness so you can remove the box and still use your vehicle. I used it when I sent my box in for repair/upgrade, that way you do not have to remove the whole harness, although the harness could also be the issue. That's why you may have to remove it all to troubleshoot.

I carry the bypass plug with me all the time now, just in case...

I replaced the cam & crank sensors last night and so far, so good. I'll keep that in mind, and I'll probably call TST and ask them for a bypass plug just in case. It seemed that I had to have been driving for 30+ miles before the truck would quit, so I'm thinking one of the 2 sensors may well have a break in the windings that is temperature related. We see this a lot in my shop with Mercedes products. Going to go for a long drive on the interstate tomorrow with the DRBIII in the truck

 

[Got HO?]

Not fixed. Died twice this morning after after about 20 miles of driving. Had to wait 15 minutes the second time before it would restart but made it back to my shop. I'm going to isolate the TST and check power supply and ground to the ECM and PCM. Dammit!

 

[HBarlow]

Not fixed. Died twice this morning after after about 20 miles of driving. Had to wait 15 minutes the second time before it would restart but made it back to my shop. I'm going to isolate the TST and check power supply and ground to the ECM and PCM. Dammit!

I would always suspect the aftermarket add-on part first. It is very expensive and time consuming for an aftermarket manufacturer to duplicate the engineering and testing the OEM performs before and after a product goes to market.

 

[Got HO?]

I think I've found my problem. The TST module cover is warped and when I opened it, this is what I see... ... ... ...

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[JJPage]

Doesn't look good. You need the bypass plug...

 

[ReelDuel]

Sounds like the throttle position sensor to me. Mine did this and I put an aftermarket module in. Took all of 45-60 most of my time was back and forth to the garage for tools.

 

[Got HO?]

Disconnected the TST harness and went back to stock for testing. Drove 110 miles yesterday with no issues. Pretty confident I know what it is now.

 

[Prairie Dog]

Thats why I ripped out my TST and tossed it in the trash. Way too many hickups and codes.

 

[Got HO?]

Thats why I ripped out my TST and tossed it in the trash. Way too many hickups and codes.

TST has been on my truck for 240k miles. This is the first real issue I've had with it. Definitely going to go back with it . Truck is kind of lame stock... ... .

 

[Got HO?]

Well, after driving for a few days with the repaired/upgraded TST, I'm very satisfied. Greg and TST have superb customer service and the truck is running better than it has in a long time. The updated programming is definitely more drivable, the the occasional hiccup that it had just off idle is gone. Very happy with TST and their service.

 

[Bob4x4]

With any of the boxes that plug into the crank sensor always remove the box before condeming anything else. I would say that the Banks Box has been the worst for this in my experience. The crank and cam sensors have been very reliable on the Crds