Here I am

Dead Pedal and a very unsettling trip home

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Low fuel pressure

After market fuel filter

Status
Not open for further replies.

JeepBuilder

TDR MEMBER
It started about a month ago. A short power loss while passing someone just long enough to say what was that? Then about a week ago another short blip of no power followed by another. So needing to haul a jeep to Seattle soon, I figured I had better find out if I have an issue. Well I sure do.
The truck is a 2001 3500 24 valve with a 5 speed. Edge tuner I rarely ever turn on, ATS turbo, FASS fuel pump with an ISSPRO fuel pressure gauge and unverified 50 HP injectors. New interstate batteries, New Cummins MAP sensor after a recent failure. It runs well at 171K miles. So the wife and I decide to go camping. I load the slide in camper and hook up to a trailer holding 1 quad, a couple kayaks and a couple bikes with a generator mounted on the trailer tongue. About 900 pounds I would guess. It is a load but the Dodgemahal handles it. About 60 miles of travel and now up the final stretch of road to the campsite, it stumbles. Then again. A loss of power then a resumption with a blacker than normal cloud that clears quickly. About 1 second of gap there. We arrive and camp. I never really relaxed as I had hoped. My truck is not running right and we are quite a ways from home.
We reach the morning of departure and head out. It runs fine for about 50 miles. Then starts really stumbling. It gets worse as we go. Two lanes with terrible shoulders to not stop on. I make it to my Aunts place and borrow her car to drive miles to pick up a fuel filter. I install it and bleed it. We head home the last 34 miles and more of the same but now it is increasing. Loss of power, moving the pedal to different positions does nothing. It resumes with a belch and makes great power to get me back to speed then falls on itself. I struggle and white knuckle the 8 miles of uphill two lane to our road. I get on our 7 miles of gravel. I'm doing 30ish and it is running great. I stop and hit 1st, then second and third with a heavy throttle and it makes great power without stumbling. More smoke than normal. The fuel pressure rose and fell by a couple PSI every time it stopped making power back on the hiway. It ranged from 14PSI and never went below 10PSI when recovering. The truck typically runs at 12-14 PSI. It seemed like the problem showed itself mostly on the hiway. Then in third doing 25 it stumbled right before our place. So toss the higher road speed assumption. I have spoken with Blue Chip Diesel and he thought it was the VP44 and that it made good power on heavy throttle because the timing weights(?) were in a different range of travel verses where they would be while driving on the hiway and trying to sustain speed. That junk somehow got into my injection pump. My filter looked typical and nothing noteworthy struck my eye. I also spoke with Diesel Auto Power and he thought it had to do with the edge controller or the APPS. The edge was off except once when I turned it on to find it made no change at all.
Now I brought my code reader and there never at any time were ANY CODES AT ALL. Nothing to indicate what is up. Honestly both guys made sense.
Now here is something that also happened that I am assuming is not related at all. The morning we left my wait to start light stayed on. It would not go out. It started fine with an outside temp around 50. We discovered pushing on the brake made it go out till I released the pedal. OK weird... It went out eventually about 40 miles later and the morning we left camp it functioned as normal. I checked it this morning and same thing. Totally normal after the grid heaters turned on and the relay cycled. Maybe a bad intake air temp sensor?

So far I have a intake air sensor AND a APPS or TPS on order from Geno's. I am a 1/4 inch away from ordering a VP44 from Diesel Auto Power. I really don't want to get stranded on the 7 hour trip to Seattle hauling someone elses Jeep. At 171K I don't think a rebuilt and upgraded VP44 would hurt anything except the wallet. The only funny take away from all this is when you type VP44 and hold down the shift key accidentally you get this VP$$..... LOL

What do you guys think? Would the IP show issues at all speeds? All conditions? And have a code to observe? I need to fix my truck for my trip over the mountain to Seattle soon. Sorry so long. I needed to get all the info out there.
 
Had the same thing happen to me on my 2001 back in the day. Hauling a trailer back home would lose power intermittently but I did get a code after a few times. Strange you're not getting a code yet but maybe you will soon. My money would be on VP44. Safe travels!
 
What Nick said. Just because it is off doesn't really do anything as it is still wired. I had one just last summer at or near 65mph and 25 boost I had a bad miss. Ordered a new one and problem solved. The old one resides under the seat right now, may plug it back in to see if it still is having a fit. This is my 3rd box in 20 years so the life span is not great.
 
I will try disconnecting the tuner. I will reconnect the MAP sensor to the OEM connector and remove the wire from the IP. I hope that is all it is. I will report back with results.
 
Initially, I was thinking APPS too but the wait to start light issue worries me. From what I have learned from others that had this happen, that can be an indication of a problem with the ECM/PCM. Hopefully it was just a glitch. Have you tried shutting down immediately after an engine malfunction incident and checked for codes using the ignition switch? Years ago when my truck was in the last week of the last month of it's engine warranty it stumbled like you describe. I was close to home and as soon as I pulled in the driveway, I shut it down and checked for codes using the ignition switch and got P0216. I took it right to the nearest Dodge dealer that verified it and had the VP-44 replaced under warranty. Hope you get this figured out.
 
My P0216 was fixed with a replacement VP-44 way back when at 52K. Started in hot weather as a little longer crank to start. Then dead pedal a couple times. Was not going to take a chance on a 1600 mile trip to AZ, so rebuild VP-44. Never another issue.
 
I just got back. It is still doing it. 7 miles of gravel and ran very well. A couple 2nd to 3rd hard pulls and no issues. Good fuel pressure and normal black smoke. I took the three connections apart from the edge tuner. The IP wire just about fell out of the connector. Not related but needs a better connection IF I put it back. The MAP sensor was easy but I found a component I don't see in the edge installation manual. A black cube with wires epoxied in about the size of a relay. The edge plug connected to it and it went to the MAP sensor. Does anyone know what this might be?

#ad


And there was a three terminal with only two wires present weatherpak connector that was a data link connection. I could not find where to plug the harness side connector back in. I looked and looked. So I left it hanging and I saw no codes or issues. When I pulled on the hiway headed to town it blanked out three times. I turned around made a hard pull to get up to speed and proceeded home. It did not stutter again.
My neighbor called when I got home. He said he has a 2001 24 valve that did this 10 years ago. He changed the APPS and struggling to remember what fixed it also recalled that his mechanic cleaned a ground on the frame. He was having trouble remembering but thought it was the cleaning of the ground that did it. It has not done it ever since.

I have the 4 factory manuals here. I am sure I could find the answer eventually, But if someone knows offhand, could someone tell me how to access codes with the IGN?
Plus I will clean every ground I can locate. If I remember correctly, did I read that there are 8 grounds to go after? My 7 miles of gravel is full of washboard. Plus I believe they use magnesium chloride to bind the dirt and gravel. I would not be surprised if the connection was either loose or corroded with all that.

I appreciate the collective knowledge here. And you folks that are taking the time to reply. I will find and fix this problem.
 
Random thought here. I have seen some pretty strange things happen with bad grounds. I am wondering if the extended Wait to Start light that went out with the brake pedal being pressed just might be related to a bad ground. I too thought about the ECM/PCM. And hoped it was not that... I have some work to do.
 
The only funny take away from all this is when you type VP44 and hold down the shift key accidentally you get this VP$$.....

Now that's funny!

If your 2001 truck has the code reader feature using the ignition switch, then do the following:

From the complete "off" position, turn ignition switch to "run" position and "off" position three times and leave it in the "run" position on the third time. The odometer will list codes from the PCM first, then the ECM. Be patient - it will tell you when it is done.

It sounds like the engine is being commanded by the ECM to run at a de-rated power level. There are many things that can cause this - including a faulty APPS, faulty VP44, poor electrical connections (especially ground connections), etc.

Not all code readers are effective when searching for codes. Recording a code (if one is available to record) will go a long way to help you diagnose the problem.

- John
 
Thank you David and John. I will get after all this tomorrow. The APPS replacement should show up Monday. I have a pretty good code reader, but will sure try the IGN method. I wondered how that was done. And I hope it reveals something. This forum is priceless.
 
Well I wish I had good news. No Apps showed today which I suppose is good. Had my work I am going to mention fixed the problem I would want to know what achieved it. First I tried the IGN for displaying codes. It worked but all it said the couple times I tried it was
"P done." I am assuming that means no codes logged. I put the truck on the lift and between the frame, engine and engine bay, I found 13 grounds. Only two not OEM for the FASS pump and one for the Camper plug. Later, I will post each ground and it's location for someone to find in a search later. I left the list in the shop and I am to tired to do it tonight. I searched high and low for any ground wires. Cleaned each one down to metal, sometimes replacing the fastener. Then dielectric gel followed by a liquid electrical tape coating.
I also traced a few other things out and labeled them for any issues that may show up later. I drove the 16 miles to town for some fuses and more liquid tape as mine was to dry. It ran super. Fuel pressure 12.5 to 13.5 the whole time. Not one issue with the wait to start light. Totally normal function every time. Left the parts store and filled up at the pump. Got in pulled out into traffic and got 4 big dead pedals. Roughly 20 MPH in third. Then no issues the whole way home despite pulling over 8 miles up, shutting the motor off and attempting another dead pedal after a 5 minute heat soak. No dead pedal that time. So speed does not matter. I am thinking the heat soak at the pump may have caused it. The problem always happened after 50-60 miles of driving with my camper and trailer. Essentially a load in 75ish temps. Today was lower 70's in town, 64 at my gate. No load to create any heat. So in general it ran great except for the 4 stumbles after 8 or 10 minutes putting fuel in. There are 4 70 degree days left. Then rain and 50's. If my assumption of heat build up on a circuit board is even half way right, I am going to have a tough time proving that later. So I am sort of assuming the VP44 computer is the culprit as mentioned by some of you guys earlier.
Still no codes to show. Blue chip diesel says this is very possible with VP44's in their troubleshooting guide. The Govt mandated lead free solder goes bad. I will replace the APPS and take my empty 1K pound car trailer to town and back. Then if it does it again, it's VP44 time. The factory manual states the PCM has nothing to do with any fueling. That is all done with the ECM. Are they even available?
I will post the ground locations hopefully tomorrow. I think it may be handy later.

EDIT:: Would a VP44 have a stamping or some indicator if it was a remanufactured unit that had been replaced already? At 171K miles I would not feel to bad about putting a fresh unit in.
 
This dead pedal problem is way more common than you would imagine. Tons to read on it. I believe at this point I am trying to justify to myself the cost of a replacement VP44. I am my own best friend...LOL :rolleyes:


From 2007...

When I was experiencing the Dead Pedal Syndrome on my old VP44, it was temperature sensitive. temps below about 50*F and it gave no trouble at all. I could drive all winter and never have a problem.
When spring and summer temps arrived, the
DPL syndrome started up again. The hotter the ambient temps, the worse the problem.


Also from 2007

I was getting intermittent dead pedal like that for just over a year. Every time I thought I had it nailed down to a set of circumstances it would find a different time to do it. It ended up being the VP44, never threw a code, just had intermittent dead pedal, I'm guessing the first diagnosis was correct. The dead pedal is apparently the control board going bad, and when that goes nothing understands that something is wrong, so no code just an annoying problem, fuel pressure has no effect either.
 
I was getting a dead pedal before and after vp44 replacement pump was replaced because after the pump got warm it wouldn’t start without dumping cold water on the pump . Replaced the crankshaft position sensor and no more dead pedal
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top