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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Decided on Formula 1 Diesel 'Mach 1.6' Fuel Injectors

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With a set of RV275's and an Edge EZ, stock everything else, my '01 Dyno's 335hp/852tq, it will pull hard. I would say about $1000.00 and includes pyro and boost gauges. I did the upgrade at 36,000 miles, it now has 220,000. I have never really wanted anymore, it is too dependable at this level.

Nick

The trucks pull great stock. My benchmark is to not be the poor guy in the right lane doing 35mph going up to the Eisenhower tunnels on I-70 at max GCVWR.
 
The trucks pull great stock. My benchmark is to not be the poor guy in the right lane doing 35mph going up to the Eisenhower tunnels on I-70 at max GCVWR.


Just because your truck needs the exhaust brake up hill:-laf

The 1st and 2nd gens were sick stock. After 10 years of driving my '91 at 263hp/708tq my stock '01 was just a little better that my Neon:eek: I can pull factory GCW, 21k, all day long on 6% grades in 5th at 55 mph.

Nick
 
A grand $ ain't bad to get to near 900 pounds of torque. Maybe I really won't have to mess with this truck too much to attain great towing power after all, it is an extremely reliable rig and would like to keep it that way for sure.
 
Just because your truck needs the exhaust brake up hill:-laf

The 1st and 2nd gens were sick stock. After 10 years of driving my '91 at 263hp/708tq my stock '01 was just a little better that my Neon:eek: I can pull factory GCW, 21k, all day long on 6% grades in 5th at 55 mph.

Nick
At altitudes of 8500? - 11500'?
 
I do not want to be too conservative and see no appreciable increase in power.


Sticks, this is what I was referring to, that for only a $1000 the OP would see a major power increase over stock and not have to drive on egg shells, that you could use the power without fear of compromising the engine.

Most of my driving is under 9k elevation, however the Cummins does not seem to mind high elevation opperation. I would guess that I could pull 11k elevation with 21k at about 50 mph, very respectable.

Nick
 
Fixing the factory screwed up throttle cable length helped a lot years ago also. Cruise control had more go than the go pedal! A lot of second gens have/had this issue.

Chris


Chris, can you explain the fix, my truck is that way. I don't remember this issue, maybe it was discussed before I was a member. Thanks!

Nick
 
Pick up your throttle pedal by hand while watching the top end where the cable end comes through the little white fitting. If there is a inch or so free plan, then get small fishing split shot weights and crimp a couple on the cable to take out the free play. You are kind of on your head doing this and it is not that easy to reach. You can use a couple little nylon ties to test at first, however the fishing weights are a more permanent fix.

The cable OEM has a round T type end on it and it recesses into the White plastic piece at the top of the pedal. It was very common, that the cable was too long and did not open the throttle all the way. I would be pulling a hill with the trailer on cruise controll, and cancel CC and loose power via the pedal. Resuming the CC and pickup power, if was a fair amount of power that did not show when I dyno's in 2005. I should have been around 325/650-700, but dyno was 284/596.

http://myplace.frontier.com/~goedmonds/id19.html

Chris
 
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Interesting. 12 years I've had my truck and never heard of this. I know I have the free play, but have never been found wanting for power.
 
I did a quick check on mine but the exhaust brake secondary switch on the throtle stopped me from lifting the peddle up and checking cable excess slack. I will remove it soon and re-check.

Nick
 
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