Delo CK-4 in 30,000 mile 2006 5.9?

[Zoomschwortz]

I apologize in advance, because no doubt, somewhere there is a definitive answer to this, but after close to 8 hours searching I have come to the conclusion that it is somewhere between just fine to probably okay to use the Delo CK-4 in my truck.
For me, I will be changing the oil at least yearly and at this point, I would be surprised to see 10,000 miles per year and probably closer to 5,000 miles, so I don't feel the need to go synthetic.

I recently bought my first diesel pickup, a 2006 2500 with 5.9 Cummins that is just shy of 30,000 miles. The original owner passed away 3 months ago at the age of 90. According to his Son, he always used Standard 15w-40 oil.
The engine oil was black, but by touch it had plenty of body to it (pretty scientific huh ;-) )

On the way home with the new, to me, truck, I stopped by Costco and picked up 3 gallons of Delo 400 sde CK-4 oil ($29) and then ordered, Donaldson oil filters, Baldwin fuel filters and the 4" Mopar air filters.

All of the filters arrived a few days ago and I changed them Thursday. After driving 40 miles the engine oil is just as black as the oil I just drained.

Questions:
Is the Delo 400 sde CK-4 oil going to be okay for a 2006 5.9?
It claims to have Cummins blessing.

Is it normal for the new oil to turn black so soon?

I have also been reading a lot about Bypass Oil Filters and have found lots of mixed reviews, but, if the oil is going to turn black so soon, I am really kicking around the idea of getting one.

Thank you for your time and help.
Ken

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

I’ve never used that oil, so I don’t have an answer on that.

On the third gen trucks, which you have, as soon as you start the truck after you change the oil it will be black. You can add a hundred filters and it’ll still be black. Like you found out, bypass filters have mixed reviews. I sent in oil samples at every oil change I did on my ‘06 from new til around 50K miles. I then installed a bypass system and continued to send in the samples. There was never any change in results from no bypass to bypass.

 

[AH64ID]

That oil is just fine. The CK spec is better than the CI spec that was out when that 2006 was built.

Good call on the Donaldon/Baldwin/4" filters, can't beat them.

Yes, the oil will be black in that motor as soon as you change it. It will also do that with a bypass filter. The way that the 04.5-07 engine passed emissions it puts enough soot in the oil that the residual oil, about 1 quart, will turn the new oil black nearly instantly.

I ran a bypass on my 05, but I won't be installing one on my 18. I'll just run the DBL7349 and call it good.

If you're going to see any extreme temps, cold or hot, then the synthetic can have some benefits but for standard use you should be fine at those miles with Delo.

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

I'll just run the DBL7349 and call it good.
.

Is there any benefit on running a DBL7349 over a Fleetguard 16035? Is it just personal preference or a better filter? I’ve only ever run Fleetguard oil filters.

 

[AH64ID]

Is there any benefit on running a DBL7349 over a Fleetguard 16035? Is it just personal preference or a better filter? I’ve only ever run Fleetguard oil filters.

Yes, the DBL7349 is a much better oil filter. I haven't found a better filter.

• Fleetguard LF16035 30µ @ 100% (25µ @ 98.7% some spec sheets) Stratapore Synthetic 8.72 GPM
• Donaldson ELF/DBL7349 20µ @ 100%, 15µ @ 98.7%, 7µ @ 59.97% Nanofiber Synthetic 20 GPM

The OEM oil pump is rated for 20.5GPM at 4200 RPMS.

 

[Zoomschwortz]

Thanks, I feel better about the Delo now.
I may get a handful of single digit temperature nights, a couple dozen nights in the teens and several in the 30's every year. At the other end 80's are fairly common in the summer, 90's are considered hot and on occasion could get into the low hundreds but that doesn't happen very often.
At the same time I changed the filters, I also connected my block heater (thank you Geno's) so I'm thinking that dead dinosaurs should still work well for me and considering the in cylinder EGR and the soot in the oil, I will probably be changing oil at 7,500-10,000 miles. So much for the oil bypass videos of keeping the oil clean.
The look of the oil reminded me of the graphite oil fad in the 70's, only without all of the leaks.

Question about the DBL7349 filter.
When I installed mine, I noticed that the bottom edge is smooth, ie. no place for a filter wrench to grip the bottom.
What are you using to remove the filter?

So, just did some reading about the instant black oil in my truck.
Apparently the main culprit for instant black oil is the in cylinder EGR used in my era of truck. There was talk of the cam causing sooting problems and also the 3rd injection event, but this data was from 8 years ago.

Is there a more recent prognosis on this in cylinder EGR and is there a proven effective way to remedy the effects of in cylinder EGR?

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

Yes, the DBL7349 is a much better oil filter. I haven't found a better filter.

• Fleetguard LF16035 30µ @ 100% (25µ @ 98.7% some spec sheets) Stratapore Synthetic 8.72 GPM
• Donaldson ELF/DBL7349 20µ @ 100%, 15µ @ 98.7%, 7µ @ 59.97% Nanofiber Synthetic 20 GPM

The OEM oil pump is rated for 20.5GPM at 4200 RPMS.

Thanks! Learn something every day.

 

[AH64ID]

Thanks, I feel better about the Delo now.
I may get a handful of single digit temperature nights, a couple dozen nights in the teens and several in the 30's every year. At the other end 80's are fairly common in the summer, 90's are considered hot and on occasion could get into the low hundreds but that doesn't happen very often.
At the same time I changed the filters, I also connected my block heater (thank you Geno's) so I'm thinking that dead dinosaurs should still work well for me and considering the in cylinder EGR and the soot in the oil, I will probably be changing oil at 7,500-10,000 miles. So much for the oil bypass videos of keeping the oil clean.
The look of the oil reminded me of the graphite oil fad in the 70's, only without all of the leaks.

Question about the DBL7349 filter.
When I installed mine, I noticed that the bottom edge is smooth, ie. no place for a filter wrench to grip the bottom.
What are you using to remove the filter?

So, just did some reading about the instant black oil in my truck.
Apparently the main culprit for instant black oil is the in cylinder EGR used in my era of truck. There was talk of the cam causing sooting problems and also the 3rd injection event, but this data was from 8 years ago.

Is there a more recent prognosis on this in cylinder EGR and is there a proven effective way to remedy the effects of in cylinder EGR?

You should be fine at those temps. The delo will start to get a little thick below 0°, but the block heater will help. A winter front is also a great idea for keeping the heat from the block heater under hood.

I've never had an issue getting the filter off. I put the wrench up towards the top of the filter, the same I do even if the filter is fluted. It's not an issue.

Yes the in-cylinder EGR is what causes the oil to be so black so quick, but it's more than the cam. It's a combination of the cam, turbo, and pistons.

On my 05 I installed a cam, no visible change in the oil, but I liked the cam. Then I did a turbo, good mod but no change to the oil. I had to rebuilt it and swapped the pistons out for 03/04 style pistons and it did clean the oil up. It would take 7500 miles to get black black, and would stay honey colored for a 2000-3000 depending on towing. That was also with a bypass, but a bypass is a 2µ filter and most soot is sub-micron. So unless you want to rebuild the motor you won't be removing all the components of the in-cylinder EGR. Even thou the cam is certainly a major part I think the pistons are the biggest culprit.

Bypass filters were much more effective on older oil specs, CF era, as the oil didn't cause the soot to be as suspended as CI and newer oils. This makes the soot much harder to filter out and why we see it in the oil.

 

[Zoomschwortz]

Thank you for your help.

No way I’m going to rebuild the engine with only 30,000 miles, so, it looks like I’m going to have black oil.

It will be a while until I need to change the filter, but it is reassuring to know that the regular cap type filter wrench will still work.

Question about those winter fronts.
At what temperature do they need to come off?

years ago I used to have an old metal 5 gallon oil can that I put a light in and then slipped it under my oil pan. Not that it was cold enough to have starting problems, but the engine sure seemed to get to operating temperature sooner.

I have read that exhaust brakes help warm up an engine faster. I have no plans on getting an exhaust brake for $1,200 + dollars, but it would be nice if someone sold a manual exhaust restrictor for fast engine warm ups.

thanks again
Ken

 

[Ozymandias]

Thats fine, they can run a million mile with black oil.
Better think about added fuel filtration because the OEM setup isn't up to the task and new injectors costs big $$$$.

Winterfront is fine below freezing.

Use the idle up feature for faster warm up.

Skip the pre heat cycle always above freezing, just harms the batterys, its only for emissions, not for starting.
This engine starts fine without it till 0F.

 

[Zoomschwortz]

Thats fine, they can run a million mile with black oil.
Better think about added fuel filtration because the OEM setup isn't up to the task and new injectors costs big $$$$.

Winterfront is fine below freezing.

Use the idle up feature for faster warm up.

Skip the pre heat cycle always above freezing, just harms the batterys, its only for emissions, not for starting.
This engine starts fine without it till 0F.

Glacier fuel filter will be here Monday.

I will keep my eyes open for a winter front.
I used to cover half of my radiator with a piece of cardboard inside a plastic bag for faster winter warm ups.

Idle up feature?
Is that something that would be on a 2006?

Thank you
Ken

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

Idle up feature?
Is that something that would be on a 2006?

Thank you
Ken

Try turning the cruise on, push set and then push resume/+. If the throttle advances, it’s activated in your truck. If not, you can have it enabled.

 

[NIsaacs]

I've never had an issue getting the filter off. I put the wrench up towards the top of the filter, the same I do even if the filter is fluted. It's not an issue.

I think the OP is talking about using an end cap wrench, not a strap type. If so, the smooth bottom wont work with it. He will need a strap type.

 

[NIsaacs]

The OEM oil pump is rated for 20.5GPM at 4200 RPMS.

How is it rated? Full unrestricted flow or installed in the engine? Engine RPM or pump RPM?

 

[Zoomschwortz]

Try turning the cruise on, push set and then push resume/+. If the throttle advances, it’s activated in your truck. If not, you can have it enabled.

Thank you, I will give it a try
Is this something that can only be enabled by the dealer or since the truck is now 14 years old, can it now be enabled by other repair shops.

Also, if I need to get it enabled, are there other things I should also Ave enabled at the same time?

thanks again
Ken

 

[Zoomschwortz]

I think the OP is talking about using an end cap wrench, not a strap type. If so, the smooth bottom wont work with it. He will need a strap type.

View attachment 118026 View attachment 118027

Yes, it was the top one I was referring to.

Over 40 years ago I bought a strap wrench that connected to a ratchet and an extension, but, both fortunately and unfortunately I have a son that has been working on lawnmowers, motorcycles, cars and trucks since he was in elementary school, so, there are a lot of tools that I no longer have or at the very least, are no longer where they should be.

 

[AH64ID]

It will be a while until I need to change the filter, but it is reassuring to know that the regular cap type filter wrench will still work.

As @NIsaacs noted I was talking about a strap type filter wrench. I didn't catch you were referring to a end style. Get youreself a strap wrench, as you will want it for the GDP fuel filter too.

Question about those winter fronts.
At what temperature do they need to come off?

I've ran mine into the 50's on a short warm trend, but all flaps have to be open and not towing. If you're towing it needs to come off above about 20°.

I have read that exhaust brakes help warm up an engine faster. I have no plans on getting an exhaust brake for $1,200 + dollars, but it would be nice if someone sold a manual exhaust restrictor for fast engine warm ups.

If you tow at all an exhaust brake is very warranted. I wouldn't want to tow in/around the moutains without one.

That being said, I do not recommend using the exhaust brake to warm the engine on 5.9's. The 5.9 exhaust brakes have too much back pressure for a cold motor and push soot into the oil. I did the UOA's on my 05 to show this. I quit using the EB to warm up and soot levels dropped drastically.

It's a little better on the 6.7 as the ECM won't apply full backpressure to the system on a cold engine. Even then I only use it once the engine has ran for a few minutes first.

Additionally, Cummins considers any cold idling over 10 minutes to be excessive and should be avoided. Best bet is to let it briefly idle when it's very cold and then drive it easy until it's warm.

Glacier fuel filter will be here Monday.

Which kit did you get?

The FF5320 supplied with their "2µ" kit is a good filter, but it's not 2µ it's a 5µ filter just like the Baldwin PF7977 for the OE canister.

The FF5814 is 3µ and the best filtration media on the market. It is a direct replacement for the FF5320 when the time comes.

Idle up feature?
Is that something that would be on a 2006?

Which transmission do you have?

With either transmission it's not enabled from the factory, but someone with a Smarty could do it for you.

If you have a manual transmission you need to ground ECM pin #22 to get it to work. Cummins sells a pigtail to make it easy. I'll look for the part number if you have a manual.

I think the OP is talking about using an end cap wrench, not a strap type. If so, the smooth bottom wont work with it. He will need a strap type.

Good catch, I missed that on his first mention of a filter wrench.

How is it rated? Full unrestricted flow or installed in the engine? Engine RPM or pump RPM?

Not sure.. just know that Cummins rates it for 20.5GPM at 4200 rpms.

 

[Zoomschwortz]

As @NIsaacs noted I was talking about a strap type filter wrench. I didn't catch you were referring to a end style. Get youreself a strap wrench, as you will want it for the GDP fuel filter too.



I've ran mine into the 50's on a short warm trend, but all flaps have to be open and not towing. If you're towing it needs to come off above about 20°.



If you tow at all an exhaust brake is very warranted. I wouldn't want to tow in/around the moutains without one.

That being said, I do not recommend using the exhaust brake to warm the engine on 5.9's. The 5.9 exhaust brakes have too much back pressure for a cold motor and push soot into the oil. I did the UOA's on my 05 to show this. I quit using the EB to warm up and soot levels dropped drastically.

It's a little better on the 6.7 as the ECM won't apply full backpressure to the system on a cold engine. Even then I only use it once the engine has ran for a few minutes first.

Additionally, Cummins considers any cold idling over 10 minutes to be excessive and should be avoided. Best bet is to let it briefly idle when it's very cold and then drive it easy until it's warm.



Which kit did you get?

The FF5320 supplied with their "2µ" kit is a good filter, but it's not 2µ it's a 5µ filter just like the Baldwin PF7977 for the OE canister.

The FF5814 is 3µ and the best filtration media on the market. It is a direct replacement for the FF5320 when the time comes.




Which transmission do you have?

With either transmission it's not enabled from the factory, but someone with a Smarty could do it for you.

If you have a manual transmission you need to ground ECM pin #22 to get it to work. Cummins sells a pigtail to make it easy. I'll look for the part number if you have a manual.


Good catch, I missed that on his first mention of a filter wrench.



Not sure.. just know that Cummins rates it for 20.5GPM at 4200 rpms.

I bought the GDP MK2 big line head mount kit. MK20307-CHMB, looks like it is the ff5320 filter so it looks like I will need to order some ff5814 filters.

I have the automatic transmission. Looks like I will need to hunt up a Smarty. I have some friends that own a auto repair shop and one of their Sons is a Cummins Lover. Maybe he has a Smarty.

I will need to think about the exhaust brake, but it is a big chunk of money. I will have a much better idea when I hook up the trailer for the first trip.

Different Question.
I have read and been told that the greatest reliability problem with the Ram automatic transmission is the torque converter that goes bad and then fills the transmission with junk.

Should I be considering a new torque converter before I have problems or just wait and see what happens?

thanks for all of your help.
Ken

 

[AH64ID]

AlfaOBD might be another option to enable it on your 06.

Where do you live?

 

[Jim W]

Ken, I run a winter front from Dec 1, to either late March or April 1 depending on day time temps. When the temps start to drop to around 30F and stay there the front is put on. It will stay on until the temps start rising and staying in the 50F. My front has four flaps that I can close or open depending on ambient temps. This year my four flaps have been opened all season. The coolant temps stay around 200F which is right were my truck should be.

I also plug in the block heater every night on a timer which runs for 5 hours and than shuts off. I like a warm truck in the AM when I leave in the truck in the morning.

If you have an 06 truck an EFI will work better for you than a Smarty will. The new Smarty are all emission compliant. Or if you just want a code reader and able to read and delete codes than the AlfaOBD would work too.
Jim