Here I am

Designed that way or...pure baloney?

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Thanks, folks!

Thanks, everyone, I intend to go roaring into the dealership armed with this new information. Heck, they don't even begin to want to see me coming. My truck is also getting hard to start and they can't fix that either. Must have something to do with my extended warranty running out next month. But I'll make 'em put my complaint on the record before it runs out, then it's "contact the district representative" time. If there is one, that is.
 
"Dealer" is a waste of *your* time! (and "down time"!)

You've been there once already - and maybe again?

Find a good -truck- alignment shop where you can talk to the guy doing the alignment.
No service writers - no pick up at 5PM - have it done while you wait. Maybe an hour?
After it's done - - Take it out for a quick test drive - and right back if not the way you want it.

~
 
Understand, and I already have a good alignment shop lined up. Moreover, a couple of guys there own Dodges. But I still intend to pressure the dealership because whatever is done is on their dime, not mine. I've already paid my $100 up front, so whatever is done after that is on CD. I also need to get that hard-starting issue resolved. That is potentially more expensive than a front end issue.
 
Alignments are only covered for 12/12 by the basic warranty. Why would they cover it now on an 03?

I doubt any worn or failed part will give you a rt drift.

The offset ball joint can correct a rt drift but they do not last as long as the originals
 
True statement -- alignments aren't covered as they are what might be called normal wear and tear. But ball joints are covered and I have an extended warranty -- bumper to bumper -- for five years or 100,000 miles, which ever comes first. The extended warranty was purchased just short of 50,000 miles, which is allowable. It's probably a bad deal, but in my case, with worn BJs and heater doors breaking, etc. , I have easily gotten my money back. The extended warranty runs out next month.
 
The dealer says no. An independent front end shop says there's a bit of play when they put it on the lift and do the iron bar trick. Must not be enough play for the dealer to be concerned.
 
There is a spec published by Dodge for both upper and lower.

I just dont think a worn front end will rt drift anyway.

The majority of Dodge 3rd gen hd 4x4's do it a lil. Some tires amplify this tendency.
 
That is interesting. I wonder what he meant by "tweaking?" My dealer says everything is lined up and in specification. He suggested doing offset BJs but I'm not sure about that. I'd do it if he'd guarantee it would be fixed. They won't do that, of course, because the factory doesn't recognize that offset ball joints even exist.



They put a bit more caster into that right side to compensate for the pull, thats the tweak. I have been told that is a typical dodge issue. I have been to every alignment shop between here and Utah and even had Tuff COuntry send me a few different control lower control arms to help figure out my issue. My truck is all over the road with this 6" lift. Cant get enough positive caster to keep it from wandering, and if i do, the front pinion angle is too tight. Dynatrac is the only fix, but $$$$$!! If anyone is thinking about lifting their truck (at least w/Tuff Country anyway) and prefer good handling characteristics, dont do it!
 
Adding caster on one side only is trying to twist a solid axle. It will be hard on the bushings.

The right way to add caster for a 6" lift is to cut the welds and rotate the "c

' to where it needs to be with the correct pinion angle still being acheived.
 
Adding caster on one side only is trying to twist a solid axle. It will be hard on the bushings.

The right way to add caster for a 6" lift is to cut the welds and rotate the "c

' to where it needs to be with the correct pinion angle still being acheived.



You are absolutely correct. But that is what the alignment shops are doing to "tweak" the front end to mitigate the right side pull.
 
My front end alignment was off from the factory, as I suspect most American vehicles
are. My dealer fixed it under warranty. It still doesn't track the greatest, but I
think they adjust the toe in as unaggressive as possible to counter the death wobble
problem. That was supposed to be corrected with the new steering linkage in the
2008 model year. There is a TSB for the death wobble (pre 2008) where Dodge will
replace steering linkage, but there has to be some damage to the steering components
as proof. You have to destroy the whole front end before they put in what they should
have in the first place. Good luck.
 
I had the same issue with my '03. Finally, after a lot of work... and $, no more drift. I thought I'd share my experience in hopes it will help someone. Here's a list of the work I did in order:



1. New tires - no change, but the OEM Goodyear GSA's had severe cracks around the bead and were wore out anyway.



2. BD steering brace - no change in drift, but noticably better steering response. At the time I noticed sector shaft play in the steering box, but did not adjust it.



3. Carli upper and Moog lower ball joints, new hubs - no change, but my right upper was loose enough that I could move the knuckle by hand and get . 060 movement. The left upper wasn't as bad, but had play.



4. Both inner tie rod ends - The drift was gone after this, but the wandering was amplified.



5. Adjust the play out of the steering box - The wander is gone and the steering is really responsive, although the overall handling is still not perfect. I only have 41,000 miles on mine so I assumed the steering box was one of those that was loose from the factory, and not worn out.



Next steps: Trackbar bushings from Genos coming tomorrow, and then an alignment. New shocks are also in the future. Hopefully that will take care of the rest of it.



Joe
 
I have been assuming steering box in mine for a while now but as I look at it, I wonder and I dread how I will ever get to the adjustment screw! How hard was it to get to? When you adjusted it, did you bring down till it contacted and back it off one turn?
 
it wasn't really bad to get to from underneath. It wouldn't be much fun to try and do from the top. I only adjusted the screw until I couldn't get any play if I grabbed the pitman arm and tried to move it up and down. I didn't want to over-tighten just in case there was a worn spot in the worm gear that would cause it to bind when turning. Keep a rag handy and stuff it under the box if you can because a little PS fluid may leak while adjusting.
 
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