Did Smarty killed my truck?

[JBonpua]

Did Smarty killed my truck?





Got a Smarty the other day and loaded SW #3 and made a 400 mile round trip Sunday. I was impressed with the power but was concerned with the amount of “pinging and rattle”. I switch back to stock last night and made a 110 round trip this morning with no issues. When arrived and parked the truck and walked to the back, I noticed that there was excessive amount of soot dust on the ground. I don’t know what caused it as I’ve never seen it before the Smarty and even with it on SW #3. An hour after arriving from my 110 trip I started the truck to go somewhere. It stated like it usually do but shut down after about 3 seconds. I did this several time with the same result…it shuts down after about 3 seconds. If feels like just someone turns the key off. I’m thinking maybe dirty fuel or clogged fuel filter?



Questions:

1. Did the Smarty possibly killed the truck (ECM)?

2. Any idea what could possibly be wrong with it?

3. If I take it to the dealer, do you think they will identify that a performance module was loaded (Smarty)?

4. Will they say something about my S&B CAI and CFM intake horn? Should I install the OEM intake and manifold?



Thanks all.

 

[DCreed]

first I would use smarty and check for codes! second if you return smarty to "stock" setting ,then no, dealer can't detect it. but the dealer MAY have a problem with the other mods, not sure. also these trucks have been having some turbo and ecm issues so that WOULD lead back to dealer, but first check codes.

 

[JBonpua]

first I would use smarty and check for codes! second if you return smarty to "stock" setting ,then no, dealer can't detect it. but the dealer MAY have a problem with the other mods, not sure. also these trucks have been having some turbo and ecm issues so that WOULD lead back to dealer, but first check codes.

I just got done plugging in the Smarty to verify if it was in "stock" and it was. I also checked for codes and it says none stored. I will discreetly call my local DC dealer and ask if they have issues with couple of my mods. Who should I ask? This truck starts right away after first try and now dead! Just now I opened the drain cock on the filter into a clean and clear bottle to see if maybe water is present and it is greed ULSD that came out. Do you think the fuel filter is cloged?

 

[John - K5AWO]

If you ask about "mods", then the dealer will mark your file.
Do not identify yourself. i would take the mods off before going back to the dealer.

 

[RankRam]

The way you describe the truck shutting down makes it sound like it's not recognizing the ignition key. I would try your other key to see if the engine continues to run, I have heard that these trucks lose the ability to read a key sometimes.



I hope this helps!

 

[RDyson]

I wouldn't worry about your mods. The air filter and intake horn are not going to cause the problems your having.



I would agree with the key thing. But when I did that with a newly cut spare key from Wally World, after the initial start it would not start at all. I would reprogram a Catcher software back into your truck and see if it starts. If it does, then try to go back to stock and see what happens.



If your still having problems, I'd call Bob before I'd call the dealer. He may know of a fix for you.



Randy

 

[phloop]

And if you still end up having to take it too a dealer, clear the codes with your Smarty after going back to the stock program first. It sets a code itself.

 

[JCasper]

Call Bob Wagner and talk to him. See if he has any ideas.

 

[foolkiller]

The way you describe the truck shutting down makes it sound like it's not recognizing the ignition key. I would try your other key to see if the engine continues to run, I have heard that these trucks lose the ability to read a key sometimes.



I hope this helps!

exactely what i was thinking

. this is likely the problem.



j

 

[JBonpua]

The way you describe the truck shutting down makes it sound like it's not recognizing the ignition key. I would try your other key to see if the engine continues to run, I have heard that these trucks lose the ability to read a key sometimes.



I hope this helps!

There must be a poltergeist living in my truck. After I got back from Costco and opened the drain cock to check for water (none were found). Just for kicks and giggles I jumped into the truck to give it a try again and guess what? It started (like always) and kept on running? I was scratching my head of what happened. I’m beginning to think that RankRam, RDyson and foolkiller are all correct that it is not recognizing the ignition key. But I used the same key and it ran. What do you all think I should do? Should I see if it will do it again and contact the dealer if it does?



I’m just happy the truck is running again. Oo. Thanks all for your help.

 

[foolkiller]

possibly the battery in your key needs replaced... ... ?? hope i'm not too bold suggesting that... no offense intended.



could be a coinsidence that your batt is dead at the same time you're fiddling with the smarty.

 

[JBonpua]

Truck is running now

possibly the battery in your key needs replaced... ... ?? hope i'm not too bold suggesting that... no offense intended.



could be a coinsidence that your batt is dead at the same time you're fiddling with the smarty.

foolkiller,



Good to hear form a fellow CA TDR member. I guess us on the west coast are the only one awake at this hour. No offense on suggestions at all. I appreciate any and all information. I thought the sentry system is a passive unit off the key and not dependent on battery? I was just looking at the key and wonder how to open the case to get to the battery. Also, after replacing battery, will it have to be reprogramed?



I think you are correct that it was a coinsidence that my battery is dying at the same time I was fiddling with the Smarty.



I am now looking to download a new program that will not have too much timing advance due to excessive (to my nerve) "pinging and ratling". I was told that the "aftermarket injector and stock turbo" has a mild timing advance. What program do you all suggest to reduce the "pinging and ratling"?

 

[foolkiller]

honestly i don't know if the sentry key battery is ncessary in regards to the ECM interrogation. but i just opened mine up and there is a battery..... took it out and put it right back in and it still works. opened it up with a dime.

 

[JBonpua]

Truck is running now

honestly i don't know if the sentry key battery is ncessary in regards to the ECM interrogation. but i just opened mine up and there is a battery..... took it out and put it right back in and it still works. opened it up with a dime.



I'm not a expert on these truck... I'm learning from the fine folks at TDR site the and quarterly magazine. Did you start your truck or just use the remote lock? I opened it with a flat screwdrive and checked to see what battery is in there. It is a CR2032. I will replace it tomorow and we will see if it will do it again.

 

[foolkiller]

i started the truck... ... i'm learning this truck as well. lets just hope that this is really your fix AND that DC doesn't have a monopoly on the CR2032 model of batteries..... $$$$

 

[foolkiller]

just did a quick search for the battery. readily available and price ranged from 50 cents to 8 bucks.



good luck brother... i'm calling it a day.

 

[phloop]

The battery in the key is for the remote door lock function. As far as I know, the factory did not change anything about the key fob/key except for mounting the fob on the end of the key. Which is a bad idea, after owning an '04 with the key/fob seperate from each other. I cuss that funky key every time I grab them to go some where, put the key in my pocket(which I now can not do very comfortably) or fumble with them.



Oh hey, I am here west coast too.

 

[phloop]

As it looks like you guys have taken the key fob apart, maybe you can answer me a question. I have yet to take mine apart and was wondering if the key/fob is really one piece or if you can take the key out of the fob and they would work as two units like they did in '05?



I have been giving it some thought too ripe into the dang thing and remove the key from the remote fob and turn it back into a two piece unit.

 

[foolkiller]

The battery in the key is for the remote door lock function. As far as I know, the factory did not change anything about the key fob/key except for mounting the fob on the end of the key. Which is a bad idea, after owning an '04 with the key/fob seperate from each other. I cuss that funky key every time I grab them to go some where, put the key in my pocket(which I now can not do very comfortably) or fumble with them.



Oh hey, I am here west coast too.

there's a lot of us californians on TDR. actually, there's enough just here in san diego to keep the site alive if we ever have the big one and the rest of America sinks. they (vendors and what-not) have a lot of functions for us to get together as well but i always seem to be up to my gills in work when they plan em.

 

[foolkiller]

As it looks like you guys have taken the key fob apart, maybe you can answer me a question. I have yet to take mine apart and was wondering if the key/fob is really one piece or if you can take the key out of the fob and they would work as two units like they did in '05?



I have been giving it some thought too ripe into the dang thing and remove the key from the remote fob and turn it back into a two piece unit.

just pulled mine apart again... ..... i don't think that will work bro. it's a one piece unit.