Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) differnt plate #'s

[41jay]

Whats the differnce between #100 #10 #6 I think thats all I've herd of. Talk like a little kid to me I don't understand all that abriviation all yall do. From what I've herd I think I'm going with a #10 but I really don't Know the difference or the pros' and cons' of any of them. please help me determine what plate suits my baby the most and what I can expect out of each individual plate and if theres any down fall to any particular plate. Thanks again every one for being so kind to a greenhorn



41jay / Jay BIRD

 

[mikel]

Ok, grab a seat this will take a while.



Generally speaking, the plates tend to get more powerful as the number goes down. Go look at the chart here to see the basic specs on all the production plates.



You will see that in the same engine a #6 will make more power than a #10, etc. Notice also that there isn't a listing for a #100 or a #0, but you do see people talking about those from time to time.



If you look at any of the plates you'll see that they have a distinct profile that usually resembles a curve to some extent. Where the curve is on the plate and how deep it is cut are what separates one plate from another. This placement of the curve is also what makes one plate stronger on the bottom end or on the top end.



Back to the #100 and #0, the #0 has no curve at all and is just flat from top to bottom, it is just a "spacer" if you will to keep the governor lever (this is the part in the pump that rides on the plate and controls fuel) from riding on an internal pin that isn't really designed to limit governor lever travel. When guys talk about "taking the plate out" they are relying on that pin to restrain the governor lever.



Alot of people like the #10 plate because it has a "nice" fueling curve, not too drastic and very adjustable and easy to drive. It doesn't hammer the truck too hard off the line (the #4 is real strong off idle) and then it starts pulling fuel back at the upper RPM to help control EGT.



The problem is, defueling on the top end is not terribly popular with the guys that want to race so they will take a #10 and grind off the top of the curve, which is what pulls back fuel at higher RPM, giving it the lower fuel curve of a #10 and the top fuel curve of a #0... Viola, a #100



Now keep in mind that this is all stuff that I have gleaned from the truly knowledgable here on the TDR. If you really want to talk to the guy that did much of the R&D on alot of this then get ahold of Joe Donnelly, I'm sure he's forgotten more than most of us will ever learn.



Anyway, I hope this helps.



Mike

 

[41jay]

got it

so let me get this straight a #100 plate is a #10 plate with the #0 plate caracteristic on top end

 

[Nick2]

true... clever name huh

 

[stacerbob]

Thanks, that was a good lesson. Been wondering that myself.

 

[Forrest]

so let me get this straight a #100 plate is a #10 plate with the #0 plate caracteristic on top end

Yes, but cut to the #0 depth. Put another way, a #0 plate with the ramp of the #10 on the bottom. If it's cut to the flat portion of a stock plate, it's a #108 because of the depth of the #8 plate.



plate

 

[robbiesworld]

WOW I had no idea I thought the #10 was for more power. OK what exactly is the downfall to running a #4 or #5 ?

 

[mikel]

The # 10 has a nice friendly fuel curve and can be adjusted forward and back real easily, but it is not as all-out powerful as some of the other plates.



You will almost never need to mess with the governor lever adjustment if you install a # 10 plate, but the same cannot be said for some of the others.



The # 4 is a good plate, it is stronger on the bottom and doesn't defuel on the top like a #10, but it will cause higher EGT's (more fuel = more heat) and is probably not going to need a governor lever adjustment in most trucks either.



Unless you just want to tinker with the governor lever adjustment then I'd say go for a #10, #4, or #0 as your needs dictate.



Mike

 

[41jay]

get it straight

Lets get this straight when your talking about the top of the plate is that when its installed in the truck or when its setten flat on a table which ones the top? And what do you mean when yall say defueling? And last but deff. not least which way is moveing it forward toward the radiator or toward the fire wall and very important which way adds more fuel or takes more fuel away? And finally yall gona love this WHY? I'll tell you if I understand why doing something does something I can fix it buy doing opposit of what I did previous

 

[ndurbin]

The top of the plate is the verticle part closest to the mounting holes any way you look at it. Defueling happens on stock trucks after about 2200 RPMs on the earlier trucks and 2400-2500 RPMs on later trucks. Moving the plate forward is towards the radiator.



Nathan

 

[bmoeller]

#ad

 

[41jay]

an idea

so the top of the plate is for bottom end and the bottom of the plate is for top end. If so you gring the top of the plate off more if you want more bottom end power correct? My top end power is fine but I wish to have more bottom end or for the turbo to spool up faster to get of the line there for I need to take off the top of the plate and gradualy fether it back in to the bottom. I think I got it the plate is just a guide, A guide for the AFC finger to read and tell how much fuel to add or take away from the motor. To retard my wast gate a little longer after adding the ellbow what do all yall think about replaceing the tube and adding a twist in it to restrick flow or like a little pig tail almost, and adding it right after the ellbow?

 

[41jay]

so the top of the plate is for bottom end and the bottom of the plate is for top end. If so you gring the top of the plate off more if you want more bottom end power correct? My top end power is fine but I wish to have more bottom end or for the turbo to spool up faster to get of the line there for I need to take off the top of the plate and gradualy fether it back in to the bottom. I think I got it the plate is just a guide, A guide for the AFC finger to read and tell how much fuel to add or take away from the motor. To retard my wast gate a little longer after adding the ellbow what do all yall think about replaceing the tube and adding a twist in it to restrick flow or like a little pig tail almost, and adding it right after the ellbow?

like a spiral or a roller coaster only 2 or 3 complete circles

 

[DPinkston]

so the top of the plate is for bottom end and the bottom of the plate is for top end.

I think it works the other way-bottom for bottom end, top for top end.

Danny

 

[mikel]

so the top of the plate is for bottom end and the bottom of the plate is for top end.

Nope, you're exactly backwards. The Governor lever starts off at the bottom of the plate (farthest from the mounting bolts) at idle and climbs up it as RPM increases.

If so you gring the top of the plate off more if you want more bottom end power correct?

If grinding the plate is what you're going to do then grind the bottom of the plate if you're wanting more fuel right off idle. Keep in mind that most likely the AFC is going to be the limiting factor as far as available fuel right off idle though, without any boost the AFC foot will probably be holding the governor lever off the plate. The first thing I'd do is loosen the AFC spring with the star wheel and maybe slide the AFC housing forwards (it's mounting holes are actually slots, so it's mounting position is adjustable) and see if that helps your bottom end.

My top end power is fine but I wish to have more bottom end or for the turbo to spool up faster to get of the line there for I need to take off the top of the plate and gradualy fether it back in to the bottom.

Take metal off the bottom of the plate (away from the mounting bolts) to do this, not the top.

I think I got it the plate is just a guide, A guide for the AFC finger to read and tell how much fuel to add or take away from the motor.

The plate has absolutely nothing to do with the AFC. Think of the AFC foot as a moveable fuel plate, as boost increases the AFC foot is forced in the direction of more fuel and the governor lever will follow it until the governor lever hits the fuel plate.



Looking down into the top of the p7100 with the AFC housing removed you can see how the governor lever hits and rides on the fuel plate, well the AFC foot fits in beside the fuel plate and the governor lever is wide enough to ride on both the AFC foot and the fuel plate. Whichever one is the most restrictive will be what is limiting fuel at whatever circumstances the engine is operating under at that time. If you have very little boost then the AFC foot will be further towards the firewall than the plate and it will be what the governor lever is riding against, but if you have a good load on and are making boost then the AFC foot will be pushed forwards towards the radiator and the governor lever will be riding on the fuel plate.

To retard my wast gate a little longer after adding the ellbow what do all yall think about replaceing the tube and adding a twist in it to restrick flow or like a little pig tail almost, and adding it right after the ellbow?

Any elbow that you will get with a fuel plate kit will be adjustable, just screw the allen screw in or out to restrict the wastegate, don't bother adding or twisting the hose.





Mike

 

[Jschafer]

Thanks Mike that is the best description I have read.



41Jay, if the allen head on the elbow is screwed all the way in it will be like you have completely pinched the hose off and this will give you more boost than you should have with the stock turbo and ect, Mine will make 40lbs of boost (without a load) with the allen head turned in all the way, they don't recommend you go over 35# with the stock turbo as it creates too much heat and becomes less efficient, so really it doesn't give any more power above 35#.

 

[41jay]

Waz Up

WAS UP Jachfer by the way thanks again for the tape but I think you started somthing It jumped up and bit me too. The cummins power bug :-laf Where can I get an ellbow Like at homedepot or somthing maby at lows thanks for all the teaching yall have taught me so much so far. One more ques if you grind the very bottom will it mess up your idel? In the pict. I see staight cuts up and down will the trottle leaver get stuck if you make the ridge on the plate to sharp cause when it slides its going from bottom to top correct?

 

[DPinkston]

Piers has boost elbows for $35. I ordered one today.

Danny

 

[Jschafer]

Your welcome

You purchase the elbow from TST or Geno's or Piers, ect it is made for our trucks.

I can't answer your question completely on the plate grind as I run a #6 plate I didn't grind mine, however the arm can get caught under the plate if the govener arm is not adjusted in the correct spot. But if that happens on yours someone else will have to get you through the adjustment. A lot of people don't have to adjust.

Some people just plug the line at the AFC housing with a pipe plug and let the line going to the waste gate hang open in stead of using a boost elbow but I believe you will have too high of boost after you grind your plate but with the stock plate you would should be ok.

Try it after you have your gauges installed you will know what you are getting for boost, if it is too high get the elbow.

 

[DPinkston]

Your welcome

You purchase the elbow from TST or Geno's or Piers

I wish I had known Geno's had boost elbows because I just ordered a boost/egt gauge from them this morning. I didn't see any in their catalog so I assumed they didn't have it. :{

Danny