Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Disc Brake Replace

[Bseg]

Can anyone recommend a decent type of aftermarket disc rotors and pads that would last longer and stop better than the stock ones? I go through pads on my '97 every 28K miles and now the rotors are cracked from the heat. Don't pull a load very often. Truck is an auto trani without a exhaust brake. Thanks.

 

[Reddog1]

Bseg,



I just went through the brake experience on my 2WD (’96). I found rotors from $60 to $360. Pads were $40 and up.



Rotors



Why were they from $60 to $360? Most common responses were: “I don’t know”, “Because these are the best”, “These are made in China”, “These are made in the US” and "These are made in Canada”.



One parts house stated they stocked two brands, Raybestos and those from a Raybestos subsidiary (I forget the name).



They said the Raybestos (each abt $120 US) were made in Canada. They were cast, rough machined, heated then finish machined. The rough machining relieved casting stress, and heating then finish machining was to reduce total run out and resist warpage due to heat. They came with inner bearing races, studs and the ring for the ABS brakes.



They said the Raybestos subsidiary version (each abt $60 US) were cast then finish machined.





PADS



It would seem that everyone has the best pads. Raybestos has about four different pads. From no names to their top of the line ($80 per pr).





I would think like every thing else, it depends on what kind of use you need. I really doubt that high dollar ($360 each) is the best.



I went with the Raybestos. At least they had a distributor that offered a competitive rotor and a reason for a different price. I guess I would have to say I have the best. This is evidenced by the fact that they are what I went with.



Total cost with bearings, pads and rotors was $420 (both sides).



It would be nice if those responding to your thread would indicate how they came to their conclusion.





Wayne

 

[Bseg]

Hi Reddog1,



Interesting that you mentioned Raybestos. I used Raybestos pads because that was all that I could find last time I changed them and they haven't lasted any longer than any other pads I've used. There was a listing in the book for some heavy duty pads but I was told that they aren't available and that I couldn't order them either. Doesn't make any sense to me, seems like if they list them under that model truck, etc that I should be able to get them somehow.



The only ad for any brake stuff that I could find in the TDR magazine was some company called EGR. I believe they sponsor Earth Roamer cause they use his url. I'm thinking of contacting them and seeing what they can advise.



I don't pull a load very often so I don't want to spend big $ on this but would like to have the front brakes last a little longer and not heat up so much. BTW one time I was driving through the mountains and the front brakes got so hot that the fluid boiled in the lines and I lost all my braking. In fact the pads were about on fire, they were smoking terribly.

 

[Bob Wagner]

want some FREE Expert advice?

Call and talk to Sam Peterson, 360 357 4958



Sam will help you out

 

[Reddog1]

Bob Wagner has pointed out a vender (Sam Peterson, 360 357 4958) that has a lot of followers on TDR. I have not used his products.



ARE EGR and Sam Peterson the same place? EGR is a bit pricey for me.



At the risk of having the thread closed, I am suspect of positive feed back from someone who gets free parts from a vender. This is especially true if they only make positive statements about a product, and never negative comments. Paid infomercials? I guess that’s the world of advertising. I don't mean this comment as a slam, just an observation I am not being paid to make.



The biggest problems I had in my search, were the lack of knowledge from the parts jockey, and their lack of interest in finding out. If its what they sell, that’s it.



I was being a smart a** with my comment of Raybestos being the best. I based my decision on Raybestos having a subsidiary with competitive prices, and the parts house offered a justification for the difference in pricing.





I am sure you are aware that under normal braking, the rotors will put burn blisters on your hands. I used to be involved in racecars, and it was common for them to be cherry red at night.





Wayne

 

[illflem]

Sam's no scam and not related to EGR. He's just a TDR member who is an expert brake man, even does the brakes on 747 jets. In fact most of his business isn't on automobiles. He makes very little money on his sales to TDR members, he's mainly doing us a favor. He owns a CTD and knows their brakes well. Sam's also a great guy willing to figure out any brake problem you might have at no cost.

 

[Reddog1]

Bill thanks for the clarification.



Looks like Sam Peterson's motivator makes him a good source. Hopefully, he is making enough profit to stay interested in providing parts.





Wayne

 

[Bseg]

Sounds good to me, I will try and give Sam a call this week sometime. Thank you everyone for the input.

 

[Bseg]

I called Sam Peterson today and he was very helpful. We discussed what rotors would be good and he said that the stock type should be fine and as far as pads are concerned he recommends a carbon metallic pad. I plan on getting the pads from him, he said he could sell me the rotors but the cost to ship them would be kind of high. Sam also brought up a good point regarding flushing the fluid in the system. This is something I really need to do since mine boiled once already. It was really great to have someone take the time to discuss this with me and especially since he is saving me $ too.



Thanks for your help Sam.

 

[BWilson]

Surely I can't be the only person who runs down to the local Carquest or Murrays and gets the "lifetime" warranty pads. I bought a set of those four years ago and I haven't had to purchase another set yet. When they hit the wear indicators, I just buy another set, put em on, and take the old ones back for a full refund.



I felt bad after the first couple of sets and asked the guy if normal wear and tear is covered under their lifetime warranty and they told me yes. He also told me that he has only seen two people take advantage of that in his store (but both of us a lot!!). Heck, I still get my rotors turned there or buy new ones at his place.

 

[Bob Wagner]

I ordered mine today from Sam Peterson



Sam is a TDR Member and is always ready to help.



Support the Members that support us with quality products and great technical support too.

 

[sam peterson]

Thanks Guys for all the nice comments---My face is a little red--I do enjoy helping out when I can. . -----Thanks Sam

 

[SRehberg]

Just a comment; I recently replaced the set of pads on the front of my 2wd with Raybestos "Brute Stop" pads. They weren't cheap, but they seem to be lasting. The only thing I have against them is the fact they have started to squeal after they heat up some. Did I do something wrong installing them? They were fine for the first 1,000 + miles or so, then it started. Other than that, they work o. k.

 

[dphillipsx]

Well my brake problems go back to the beginning when I wore out my first set at 16,000 and fought with Dodge over premature wear. Since then the best I can get is about 25,000 and I have tried several of the raybestos types. The worst were the nascar super stops. The best so far are the heavy duty lifetime warranty. How ever when I recently returned about my 7th set to Kragen they informed me that next time they would not warrant them due to a change in their policy. Of course I can't accept that. How dare they make such a change after I paid my money (I'm Cheap). I am ready for some new rotors now, as mine are down to the discard point. Any good advice on these ?? I do think my calipers also need to be done due to some uneven pad wear.

 

[QRTRHRS]

Originally posted by SRehberg

Just a comment; I recently replaced the set of pads on the front of my 2wd with Raybestos "Brute Stop" pads. They weren't cheap, but they seem to be lasting. The only thing I have against them is the fact they have started to squeal after they heat up some. Did I do something wrong installing them? They were fine for the first 1,000 + miles or so, then it started. Other than that, they work o. k.

I picked up this anti squeal "stuff" from NAPA. You paint it on the back side of the pad and let it dry. I don't know how it works but I used it on a couple of brake jobs and don't get any squeal.

 

[Roger rodbolt]

Rear brakes not functioning properly??

Bseg,

I hope that some one has mentioned that you should tune up your rear brakes? My experience, especially with the earlier 2nd generation trucks, is that the rear brakes are weak and cause the front pads to over work. I put on one or two size larger rear wheel cylinders and make sure the brake adjusters are working. You must back off the emergency brake adjustment to properly adjust the rear brakes (very few shops do this). HTH's, Larry

 

[SRehberg]

QRTRHRS, I'll give it a try, as it is embarrassing when I pull up to a stop and sound like a city bus! My first set of pads lasted about 40,000 miles, and the only reason I replaced them was the fact they faded badly when going down long hills. I had a large camper then, with no exhaust brake. Just the automatic trying to hold things back on its own, which didn't do a very good job.



The rotors look blue, but no cracks or scores, so they have definetly been warm!

 

[Bseg]

I definitely am going to take a look at the rear brakes. It seems like they aren't doing anything at all right now. I'm sure just adjusting them so that they make some contact to the drums will make alot of difference. I changed my first set of pads at 28K miles and the shoes looked new but I replaced them anyhow, at 56K the pads went again and the shoes still looked new again, so I left them and now at 76K the pads are gone again and I'm willing to bet the shoes are still like new. Haven't been able to get the drums off so I'm going to try the method Sam recommended to me, lift the rear of the truck, leave a couple of nuts on several studs on each drum, start truck and put in gear then hit the brakes. Sounds like several others have tried this and it worked.



Curious, did anyone else find that they could tighten up the rear adjusters and get their front pads to last longer? If this doesn't work I will go to the other suggestion of changing to the larger rear cylinder.

 

[Bseg]

I read somewhere that the rotors are held on with 4 bolts on the back side. I looked at mine and there are 4 bolts that have some kind of a 12 point head, what do you use to remove these? Will a regular socket work or is there a special tool?



Thanks.

 

[illflem]

The four bolts you speak of take a regular 12 point socket, but you don't need to remove to them to change the pads, only if you want to remove the rotor. You will also have to remove the large nut on the axle. The two bolts-actually pins- that hold the caliper on take a 3/8" allan socket.