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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission disconnect frt. axle

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could someone please describe the difference between the disconnect front axle, and one thats not? my 3500 aught 2 looks just like my wifes 2500 "99" thanx Oo.
 
DC changed from the disconnect during the middle of the '02 run. My '02 still has it. The only visible difference is a box hanging off the back side of the long tube that has vacuum line(s) running from it.
 
I'm sure others will chime in with more technical terms, but here is a simplified version.



The central disconnect on the front axle serves as a way of "unlocking" the front axle. In a way it does the same job as a set of lockout hubs on the front axle. It splits the front axle shaft into 2 sections and keeps the front end from pulling all the time.
 
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Cutting an axle shaft in half, and having a collar slide over it wasn't too smart either. But the pavement pounders like it. Manual locking hubs are stronger and easier to service.



Even with the CAD, the differential was still turning, increasing resistance, lowering fuel milage... ... .



Without the disconnect, the axle will technically be stronger, but you cannot put a traction aid in because you would have no way of disconnecting the axle shafts (via hubs or the CAD). And bighammer is correct, the driveshaft is always turning, causing more wear, resistance, etc.
 
Originally posted by wrhuston





Without the disconnect, the axle will technically be stronger. And bighammer is correct, the driveshaft is always turning, causing more wear, resistance, etc.



It's stronger less complex and your not going to wear it out. It might cost you 1/10 of a mile per gallon?
 
My 2002 truck built in late July has the newer solid front axle. The whole front driveline turns all the time and is disconnected at the transfer case. The vacuum canister thingy is noticeably gone from the back side of the axle too.



I want manual locking hubs! Does anyone have any ideas how to add them?
 
One nice thing about the front axle disconnect is the ability to wire a switch in so you can use 2 wheel low. Easier on the auto transmission when backing in a fifth wheel trailer.
 
Dynatrac options...

I not 100% sure because I never went through with it and quit the research, but the Dynatrac option(s) may not be a solution for years after '99. Seems like there was a slight change in something (maybe the ABS system) in '00 and the Dynatrac kits only work on '94 thru '99. Anyway, they make three different kits that yield locking hubs and all three disable the front ABS system. Only the med. and heavy duty kits get rid of the CAD, the light duty kit is basically the hubs, the axle is still engaged with the CAD. All three kits are expensive, with the light duty around $1500. It's been awhile since I was looking, so things may be different now.
 
let me add another unenlightened question



What is the purpose of manual locking hubs ?



do they disconnect the wheels from the front axle to allow freewheeling ?



I saw a guy last weekend stop in the middle of a hill, jump out and lock his hubs, then continue up the hill. Did he have to do that along with shifting the transfer case into 4x ?



Yep, this is my first 4x4, you would have never guessed huh :rolleyes:
 
exactly...

Yeah damon, that's pretty much it, but there are a few more benefits. The manual hubs do allow freewheeling which saves driveline wear and helps fuel economy. Manual hubs would also allow easier disassembly for maintenance and repair. More important though, you would be able to unlock the hub from the axle in the event of a broken axle shaft. With the CAD, if an axle shaft breaks, you're turning it via the wheel and will probably only make it a little way before doing more damage to the axle's internal components. If you're long way out a field-fix is in order and that means having the tools onboard to do it.



When you see a Ram 4x4 in motion, look at the u-joints just inboard of the front tires. They'll be turning. If the Rams had lock-out hubs, and they were unlocked, the u-joints would not be turning. I try not to put my axle shafts in a bind by avoiding crazy steering manuvers in four wheel drive. The CAD seems strong and reliable, definetly convenient. I've haven't even popped a vacuum line off yet. I'd have to break something internally to consider one of the Dynatrac kits. Quite a bit more info here:CAD stuff on Fritz's site
 
Thanks Clinton, that explains it well.



On my truck I don't have CAD, it's a solid front axle. Did any years/models of our Ram's come with the manual hubs ? This seems like a worthwhile mod if it could be retrofitted for a decent price. I like the idea of a solid front axle, but I also like the idea of keeping all of that drive line from spinning when unecessary.



Damon
 
I'm not real sure about years, but I think the CAD may have been introduced with the 2nd gen trucks in '94. Maybe one of the 1st gen folks could tell us. I wasn't aware that they did away with the CAD until this thread.



Something I left out on that last post is the use of traction devices in the front differential. Lock-out hubs are better for that, because those devices increase the chance of snapping an axle shaft.



Did you make over to Fritz's site? Surf around over there and take a look at his Dynatrac custom front Dana 60. Sweet. At $6k it better be sweet. There's a guy in my area I've seen, but never been able to talk to that has a leaf sprung, lock-out hub front axle in his 12v 2nd gen Ram. I think it's probably from an F250 or F350, but it's pretty sweet too. I still want the Dynatrac kit, but if it ain't broke...
 
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