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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) disconnecting heater grid questions

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I want to disconnect the heater grid for the summer. Can I just disconnect the hot wire from the battery positive post that goes to the solenoids that give power to the heater grids without causeing any harm?



Ron
 
Grid Heaters

Sorry to ask but why to disconnect the heaters??? Is to stop the draw on the batteries or ??? They wil be disabled if you drive over 30 +++ Mph What do you know that we should know???:D :D Thanks
 
It is easier on the batteries (last longer) and the alternator will definitely last longer. I think there is something like a 200 amp draw when the heater grid cycles. The lift pump also comes up to full pressure as soon as the truck starts instead of waiting for the cycling to stop, at least on my truck it does. I have also noticed the engine seems to run smoother for some reason, maybe it is my imagination, i will be keeping an eye on that one through the summer. I have also been having a different problem with the truck lately and it is getting worse, I don't want to say what it is at this time because I want to trouble shoot it first. I think maybe all the above is affected because of week batteries and if leaving the heater grid off all summer takes care of the other problems I will then install new batteries and see if the problem is still gone. Everything about these new trucks is run off current and a voltage drop in some areas can lead to problems.



Ron
 
Not sure on a 24 but on a 12 valve there are two relays down below the drivers side battery and a little to the rear that have the trigger wire terminals pushed onto a screw stud. Pull one wire on both of the relays and no grids, take you about four seconds, even easier than pulling the fuse.
 
Bill,

Yes the 24 is the same as the 12 at least on mine it is. I thought of doing what you said too but at the time I was cleaning my battery posts and discovered two nuts apposing each other on the hot wire, I traced the one down to the two relays or solonoids or whatever they are so I figured I would just disconnect the side of the hot wire that lead down to them.



I have been doing a search on grid heaters and found a very interesting way to disconnect them right after the engine starts, I may do that this fall when it gets cold again.



Thanks to everyone,

Ron
 
Originally posted by ronsram1999



I have been doing a search on grid heaters and found a very interesting way to disconnect them right after the engine starts, I may do that this fall when it gets cold again.



Thanks to everyone,

Ron





Care to share the interesting way to disconnect them right after the engine starts? I'd like to know.



Bocifus
 
If you do a search under grid heater in the 24 valve forum on the first page there are a few threads that pertain to this. It basically involves hooking up a pressure switch to the oil pressure. It then disconnects or interrupts the signal for the heater grid to cycle after there is engine oil pressure. It is explained better in the thread. If I knew how to post a thread from somewhere else I would do that but I am pretty much computer illiterate. If you do the search it is easy to find. Let me know if you can not find it or not and I will see if I can do more.



Ron
 
The grid heater above 32 degees is absolutley "Useless!" In fact, you can disconnect the extra battery too and take it out for a 20 lb weight savings! Keep it in your garage next winter, and if it gets less than 32 degees, use it for getting worms out of the ground for your next fishing trip! ;)

Bob in WARM Sacramento
 
Hey Bob, the only problem is when you take out the second battery you have to deal with the exposed cable ends. Small detail
 
Bob,

A little off topic but how do you use a battery to get worms out of the ground for fishing?



I like to fish!



Ron
 
Ways to disconnect heater grid,



Hot wire from battery going to the solenoid relays.

Disconnect one wire from each solenoid relay.

Put a pressure switch in to disrupt current after there is oil pressure.

Buy a device from practical solutions that disrupts current flow after the engine has warmed to a predetermined temperature.



Are there any more?



Ron
 
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I could be wrong on 24s

Ron, you sure about the power relay in power distribution box?

12 valves don't have one, the only circuit protection comes from the fusible link, which is in the wire from the battery to the solenoid relays. The trigger signal for the solinoid relays comes from the pcm, if you pull it's fuse you lose more than the grids.
 
Nope not sure about the power relay in the power distribution box, I was going by what someone else said. Guess I'll have to look and see if there is one and report back.



If there is not one could the person who mentioned it please verify what they meant, I will go look and report back either way.



Ron
 
I did some poking around and heres what I did...



I disconnected the solenoid feeds from the battery... Boy that was easy.



No codes, no nothin'
 
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