Disengaging front wheel drive in lo-range

[GLuttmer]

I'm looking for a way to disengage the front wheel drive on my 2007 3500 4x4 when I engage the low range. I haul a big 5th wheel and would like to put the trannie in low range when backing up. (Because of the u-joints, when you crank the truck around the front wheels skid a bit. )



Thanks,

Gerry

 

[rbattelle]

Can't be done without a front hub kit. Dynatrac makes one...



There are several threads about it, here's one.



Ryan

 

[Graphic man]

do they use the same set-up as the 2nd gens??



Scott

 

[Hercules130]

www.emsoffroad.com

 

[rbattelle]

do they use the same set-up as the 2nd gens??



Scott

What? The axles or the Dynatrac kit? The axles are completely different from 2nd gen axles. Different manufacturer, different size, different hub/bearing assembly. Not sure whether the Dynatrac kit is similar...



Ryan

 

[Graphic man]

What? The axles or the Dynatrac kit? The axles are completely different from 2nd gen axles. Different manufacturer, different size, different hub/bearing assembly. Not sure whether the Dynatrac kit is similar...



Ryan

i was wondering if you could un hook the plug so the collar wont slide over and engage the front axle (not sure what it is called) then you can use 4x4 low range and not have a live front axle.



Scott

 

[JFaulkner]

unlike a 2nd gen there is no front axle disconnect on a 3rd gen. So to answer your ? there isn't any way unless you buy the front hubs ($$$) or remove the driveshaft.

 

[sid325]

Just had my Dynatrac hub kit installed, love it.



Sid

 

[abdiver]

Just had my Dynatrac hub kit installed, love it.



Sid

Sid, Where did you have it done?



What was the aprox total costs if you don't mind



Thanks Bill

 

[RRees]

This won't answer your question, but might provide a different direction.



On my Jeep that has solid axles front and rear and no lockouts, I can engage 2wd lowrange because I swapped out the range selector with one made by Teralow.

It allows 4low, 4Hi, N, 2Hi and 2low. My Jeep doesn't see alot of highway miles though.



So, the lockouts would probably be your best option that way your front driveshat wouldn't spin either.

 

[nickleinonen]

you could always drop the front drive shaft... that would give you 2low, but no 4x4 until shaft back in [could suck large if you get stuck somewhere... ]

 

[JHenry]

I'm looking for a way to disengage the front wheel drive on my 2007 3500 4x4 when I engage the low range. I haul a big 5th wheel and would like to put the trannie in low range when backing up. (Because of the u-joints, when you crank the truck around the front wheels skid a bit. )

Thanks,

Gerry

If you are only going to do this once, drop the driveshaft. If you are going to do it frequently, you will appreciate the Dyna-Trac hub kit. I bought the kit and installed it on my '06. The savings in fuel and wear on the front driveshaft, u-joints, axle, etc. , will be worth it. Not mention the hassell of dropping the driveshaft. JH

 

[Prairie Dog]

So how much is the Dyna-Trac kit?

 

[osiris]

what kind of mileage gains did you see from installing the kit?

 

[cerberusiam]

If you are only going to do this once, drop the driveshaft. If you are going to do it frequently, you will appreciate the Dyna-Trac hub kit. I bought the kit and installed it on my '06. The savings in fuel and wear on the front driveshaft, u-joints, axle, etc. , will be worth it. Not mention the hassell of dropping the driveshaft. JH

So, how much fuel are you saving by ADDING weight and how many miles are you gonna have to drive to recover the cost of the kit?



As far as wear goes, everything is still turning just like it was with only a minor reduction in tension.



Don't get me wrong its a great addition, but, fuel and parts savings is a unsupportable reason for doing this. Slow down 5mph and don't run the wheels to the locks would give a much better return without a huge investment.

 

[rbattelle]

Don't get me wrong its a great addition, but, fuel and parts savings is a unsupportable reason for doing this.

I agree.



Ryan

 

[brods]

So, how much fuel are you saving by ADDING weight and how many miles are you gonna have to drive to recover the cost of the kit? As far as wear goes, everything is still turning just like it was with only a minor reduction in tension.

Why would the front axle shafts and ujoints, front differential gears and front driveshaft still be turning?

... . don't run the wheels to the locks

What does that mean?

 

[GLuttmer]

Thanks to all who responded to my request. It got me thinking on the right track ... we'll see where it goes!



Gerry

 

[GaryCarter]

I've used 4-low for years in my tow vehicles. Never disconnected the front and had zero problems (knock on wood). Usually on hard surfaces I don't need low; usually it is in a gravel campground road, grass or dirt, so slippage happens easily.



After hurricanes last year I did run 4-low on dry pavement and spun all four pulling trees out with no ill effect, so these are pretty stout axles.



Gary

 

[cerberusiam]

Why would the front axle shafts and ujoints, front differential gears and front driveshaft still be turning?

They don't. Forgot what I was working on. Even with all that disconnected trying to find enough mpg gain to warrant the cost is hard to attribute to JUST the kit. Slowing down 5 mph will generally make more of a difference.

What does that mean?

Low range 4x4 and turning the wheels too sharp causes all the bind and skidding problems, which everybody seems to take exception to. If you keep the wheels straighter the bind is not as bad. Hard to do when trying to position a big 5'er in space I know, but unless you are doing this every day or so its just hard to justify.



To me, the strength and the elimination of the stock wheel bearing is much more attractive than the rest of the listed positives. To each his own. We put other expensive geegaws on these trucks so this one is just as valid.