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Distress with Autometer Dual-Gauge POD

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Poor-Man's Pyrometer?

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I was extremely peeved to find that my new Autometer dual-gauge pod from Geno's requires EXTENSIVE and permanant modifications to my existing factory A-piller cover. I assumed (I know what happens when you assume) that the dual-pod was a pillar cover replacement, not a drill-six-holes and dremel-tool-your-tweeter-hump stick-on unit. #ad


Fairness in advertising. I should have obtained a half-pillar replacement if I had known I was going to be drilling and mangling my factory pillar in the first place.

Any idea how much a replacement non-tweeter pillar costs from the local D/C parts counter?

Greg

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Y2K Dodge Cummins QC 2500 SLT Laramie 4x4 Long Bed, 4. 10/Auto, Forest Green/Driftwood, 265x75R16 Michelin LTX, 6 speaker CD, Camper/Tow/Plow Packages, Westin Black Nerfs, Mopar bedliner, Ultra bright diamondplate toolbox, K&N Filtercharger. Autometer EGT and Boost gauges with 2-gauge pillar coming soon!

http://www.rints.com/hammond for photos!
 
I just ordered one myself this morning from Genos. I was going to paint it to match the interior color as I did with the triple dash mounted pod. However, I just got back from the dealer and they don't have paint to match the pillars (only the dash board color). If you look closely, the dash and the pillars are slightly different in color. What are the rest of you doing as far as painting the pillar pods?

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David Dressler
2001 Driftwood 3500 Quad Cab 4x4, 155 inch WB, HO Cummins ETH/DEE, SLT+, 3. 54 LSD, Camper Special, Trailer Tow, Heated Leather, Sliding Window, Jacob's E-Brake, Rhino Liner, VDO Vision (pyro, boost, engine + diff. temp. ), Autometer Ultra-Lite (electric fuel pressure, vacuum), Weather Guard Diamond Plate Saddle Box, Tork Lift camper tie-downs, Mag-Hytec, Mopar Tow Hooks, SmittyBilt Outland Sport Bumper Gaurd, 2-LO kit, AND functional Halo light!
Bigfoot 3000 10. 11 Slide-in Camper. "Do it in a Dually"
 
I used it as a whole pillar and just stored the stock one away in the closet. It looks good and fits well. The grain doesn't quite match but if someone is looking at your truck that close kick them in the nuts lol. My interior is Mist Gray and i was able to buy matching paint at a local dealer. In fact he pulled my truck up in the computer to make sure he got it right and he did. It matches perfect. I know the Agate and tan is also available.
Clark
 
I just installed an Auto Meter tripple-gauge pod and yes I killed the OEM A-piller cover to run the wires and all. I figure it can't cost that much if I ever wanted to return it to stock. For paint I just used some grew paint from a local hardware store since I don't have a dealer in town. It looks fine to me.


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Red 1998 Dodge Ram 2500 4X4 Quad Cab, CTD 12 Valve, Long Bed, 5-speed, 3. 54 gears, Camper/Tow pkg, 33x12. 50x16. 5 BFG A/T's, Rancho RS9000 Shocks, Tuff Country Leveling Kit, Straight Piped, K&N Air Filter, Silencer Ring Hanging in Shop, Yet to be Bombed, 70K+ Miles. My web site: www.mark74.com
 
Well, I am considerably less torqued up now about the pod pillar. I read the sheet that Geno's stuffed in with it, which basically said to ignore the Autometer directions and save the stock pillar. The rubber door seal keeps the left/right movement limited, and I drilled one small hole near the mid-top of the pillar and put a screw in to hold it in place.

It took me about 4 hours to mount the gauges, tap the manifolds, and figure out the wiring scheme to get the backlights and EGT gauge working right.

I ended up tapping into the dimmer by vampire-tapping the brown wire that goes into the dimmer harness itself. I pulled +12v for the EGT gauge from the red wire that was already in the pillar that leads up to the overhead map lights. My EGT gauge is "on" all the time, but is only drawing 70 mA, so shouldn't kill the battery.

Greg


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Y2K Dodge Cummins QC 2500 SLT Laramie 4x4 Long Bed, 4. 10/Auto, Forest Green/Driftwood, 265x75R16 Michelin LTX, 6 speaker CD, Camper/Tow/Plow Packages, Westin Black Nerfs, Mopar bedliner, Ultra bright diamondplate toolbox, K&N Filtercharger. Autometer EGT and Boost gauges with 2-gauge pillar coming soon!

http://www.rints.com/hammond for photos!
 
A replacement pillar from Mopar i think is less then 20 bucks. I left mine black, except for in direct sunlight, (and i have DARK tinted windows) you really dont notice the color is off.
As for leaving the EGT gauge hooked up to constantly on power source, that gauge and control box wont last long, it is not desinged to be on all the time. You can easily snake a wire down from the "A" pillar to the fuse panel (about 8 inches) and tap behind a fuse to something like the radio or power windows which shut off with the ignition. Take the extra time and do it right, that gauge is awfully expensive to just leave on till it dies (which it will, no question about it). Good luck
 
Using the triple pillar w/tweeter and did not paint it yet (may not, its sooo close to the agate). I removed the orig and its in storage for if and ever I have to let this beast go. I have been running my EGT hot since day one of install (Autometer), makes a nice temp gauge for winter/spring/summer/fall of the eng before starting #ad
#ad
. Gives me an idea if its hot or not (from previous shutdown). Havent lost "it" yet!! (some may say otherwise, tho #ad
)

Just my opinion/option.

SOTSU!!
\\BF//
 
I left a message for the service people at Autometer to get an answer on this question. I personally don't think that leaving the gauge on 24x7 is going to reduce it's life any appreciable amount, as I know about serveral pyrometers here at work that are used in manufacturing processes that are on constantly and have never needed replacement.

We'll see! I will share the response from Autometer once they clarify the issues involved.

FWIW: How do I get "behind" the fuse panel inside the door access panel? I'd rather not tap into one of the fuse legs from the top, it leaves such an unprofessional "finish" by having a wire jammed into the fuse hole w/the a fuse there too. I almost routed a wire over to the cigarette lighter outlet, as that's switched on/off with the ignition. I was getting lazy after 4 hours of tinkerin. #ad


Greg


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Y2K Dodge Cummins QC 2500 SLT Laramie 4x4 Long Bed, 4. 10/Auto, Forest Green/Driftwood, 265x75R16 Michelin LTX, 6 speaker CD, Camper/Tow/Plow Packages, Westin Black Nerfs, Mopar bedliner, Ultra bright diamondplate toolbox, K&N Filtercharger. Autometer EGT and Boost gauges with 2-gauge full pillar w/tweeter.
http://www.rints.com/hammond for photos!
 
Here's the response I got back from Autometer. The response is mixed -- they recommend a switch, but say no reduction in life expectancy. I may brake down and re-wire it from accessory power w/an inline fuse.

Greg

Quoted text follows:

Greg,
No, there will be no "shortening" of the life expectancy of the gauge by making a direct connection to 12v+ power and ground. However, we ALWAYS suggest you make the connection with a switch inline, and also a 1-3 amp fuse is not a bad idea, either.

Ward
Tech/Service
(Autometer)


Greg Hammond wrote:

I just installed my new Autometer 4344 Ultralite EGT gauge with 5249 street series probe. Mainly out of convenience on my part, I wired it into a constant 12v source instead of a point where it would receive power only when the ignition is on. Someone on the Turbo Diesel Register said that I would reduce the life expectancy of my gauge by leaving it "on" all the time. Is this true?
 
I just drilled into the stock pillar and mounted over it. I didn't care for the cavernous look it had if I would have just used the gauge pillar without the stock pillar behind it. I was planning on painting it to match, but I haven't gotten around to it. I might just leave it black - it's really not very noticeable. I got my 3 gauges hooked up in 3 different operations. I did the pyro first with some help from some TDR buddies. My boost was on back order, so I had to wait to get it. Finally, I just got the trans. temp. gauge hooked up after I got a cooler line from a '95. Now it's finally all done. Wally19 hooked up my gauge lights to an ignition fuse while I was running the pyro lead wire. My gauge lights are always on when the ignition is on. He even put an in-line fuse in it. Thanks Jason!

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2001 2500; SLT; 4x4; QC; LWB; Auto; 3. 54 LS; 265s; Camper; Tow; Sliding Rear Window; Travel Convenience Group; Cab Clearance Lamps; BedRug; Forest Green; Isspro Pyro, Boost, and Trans Temp Gauges; 27' TT
 
Just to round out this discussion -- I re-wired my pyro yesterday by installing an inline fuse holder (per Autometer recommendation) and tapping into the #16 spare mini-fuse with a modified spade connector. Yeah, I know, it's cheesy looking if somebody removes the fuse panel cover, but who is gonna do that except for me? #ad


Now, my gauge turns on/off with the ignition, and I've got peace of mind with the fuse. Total time to switch it over from the vampire tap was just about 30 minutes.

Overall, I'm REAL satisfied with my installation. I just wish there was room for a 4-gauge pillar so I could add fuel pressure and transmission temp.

Greg

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Y2K Dodge Cummins QC 2500 SLT Laramie 4x4 Long Bed, 4. 10/Auto, Forest Green/Driftwood, 265x75R16 Michelin LTX, 6 speaker CD, Camper/Tow/Plow Packages, Westin Black Nerfs, Mopar bedliner, Ultra bright diamondplate toolbox, K&N Filtercharger. Autometer EGT and Boost gauges with 2-gauge full pillar w/tweeter.
http://www.rints.com/hammond for photos!
 
hammong-
As you add accessories, you might want to consider running a separate fuse block from the "switched" Cigar lighter circuit. The Cigar lighter circuit is already fused for 20-amps and then I had smaller fuses off the block. You will find that one accessory leads to another to another to... ... ... .....

David
 
I purchased an OE A-pillar (Agate) W/O tweeter for about $32. from my Dodge dealer. The OE A-pillar WITH tweeter listed for about $160. in early '99. In addition, since there is no tweeter hump to remove (i. e. , butcher), I was able to place the size and number of holes I required for my SPA gauge installation exactly where I wanted them. #ad


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John Treibel
'98. 5 2500 QC 4x4 Sport, Glasstite Vision II, 285 BFG A/Ts on M/T Challengers, Warn 4X Boards, Mopar fender flares & tow hooks, NW Custom s/s-rubber mud flaps and accs. , Mag-Hytec diff. cover & DD trans. pan, Edelbrock IAS shocks, Reese Titan V hitch, Jordan Research Ultima 2020 trailer brake controller, SPA gauges (3), Dynamat, '00 Sport grille and headlights/PIAA Super White bulbs, "special" Brite-Box, PIAA Dual Sport 900 aux. lights, BD exh. brake, Amsoil Dual Remote Bypass w. trick billet block adapter and Aeroquip Teflon-s/s hoses, Optima Yellow Tops, DD3s and DD TTPM, Aeroquip AQP s/s fuel hoses, tricked out Cummins valve cover, tricked out Banks High-Ram and 14 cm2 (wastegated) turbine housing, ATS 3-piece exh. man. , Banks 4" dia. s/s exh. sys. , DTT 93% TC, DTT custom tuned VB, BD modified trans. front pump (enhanced by DTT), Air Bulldog induction hood (with NACA ducts), plus MANY other trick modifications

COMING ATTRACTIONS: break out those sun glasses! Plus, BLACKOUT gets a "BIG GULP"

NRA Life (Patron) member
 
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