Ditching overload springs and spacers= WOW!

[Archive]

[OK, second try, computer lost my entire first compostition #ad
]

Last night I stopped by a truck parts place and had some 1/2x3x8. 5 inch u-bolts made up so I could eliminate my overload springs (only cost $4. 50 apeice made to order!). The project went well, and what a difference in ride!!

I knew getting those things outa there would help reduce some unsprung mass, and hopefully help the ride a little. The results were more pronounced than expected. The constant jiggly motion felt on all but the smoothest roads has diminished significantly. The secondary rebounding the axle always has after hitting big bumbs has diminished as well. On rough roads the rear tires stay planted on the pavement and the axle doesn't get as discombobulated like it used to.

Three other nice side effects: Truck sets just right now (rearend aint so high and looks way better), it feels less nose-heavy and more balanced when pushed in corners, and without the spacers there is less axle windup whichs makes smooth takeoffs even in first gear easier.

When I got done last night around 9:30 I went for a long drive. It was very pleasant and had cooled down to the 80s by then. Nothing topped cruising in my Cummins powered truck with a new attitude on a warm summer night with the winders rolled down #ad


Vaughn

------------------
2001 Ram 2500 QC SWB 2wd, Patriot Blue/Driftwood, HO Cummins & 6-speed, 3. 54LSD, Cab & Fog lamps, Camper & Tow Pkg.
BOMBings: K&N RE0880, DD boost module, straight piped, debadged body, AutoMeter Sport Comp Boost & Pyro gauges, Amber turn signal conversion
Performance: 245rwHP on BD Dyno, 0-60@ 11. 5 sec 17/22 mpg city/hiway
11,014 miles (7/04/00)

 

[Archive]

Exactly which overload spring did you remove? I've never looked at a spring setup on a 2WD.

When I look at my truck - there is the very heavy duty leaf on the bottom. Removing this would definitely lower the truck.

My truck also has a set of overload springs above that only are used with a very heavy load. Removing these would not lower the truck at all.

See pictures @ Pictures .

The last picture in the group shows the spring setup the best.

------------------
"Red Rage" - 2001 2500 SLT 4x4 QC Lowered Rear End 2. 5" 5spd, 4. 10 K&N Stock Replacement - 9,000 miles and counting! 30' 5th Wheel

[This message has been edited by bennettj (edited 07-20-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

Vaughan... good post. . yeser

On my new 3500 HD I'll do the same till I buy a 5er... No more sand for me... hehe

PLEASE SEND ME SOME SMOKE... getting lonely for just a wif... oh for just a ride at this point. . getting bad when ya have to use the DD's start up sound to get a fix

Gary

 

[Archive]

Nice truck, Bennettj

Here is a picture of Bennetj's rear suspension. My truck sits 1" lower now because I removed the spacer between the axle and main set of springs. On my 2wd the spacer is 1" instead of the 4" found on a 4x4. Bennetj lowered his rear end by using different spacers in place of the 4" stocker.

#ad


To remove them I removed the nuts and pulled out the U-bolts. Then you just lift the springs and spacers right outa there. To remove the spacer under the axle I put a jack in front of the axle on the springs and lifted that up enough to pull the spacer out. The springs torqued sideways however and I had to use chunks of wood to leverage them back into alignment so the alignment button would drop into the hole on the axle (this keeps axle perfectly aligned). This was the hardest part. One set, I put the new ubolts on and tightened 'er down! Another word of advice, the bolt with the nut you see running down through the middle of all the springs that holds them together--don't bother with it, don't need to try and remove it and waste time like I did #ad


On 4x4 trucks I am not sure what is available for spacers. Definitely don't want to yank out the 4" and not replace them with anything. I would say 3" or maybe 2" spacers would be ideal if you're wanting to level a 4x4 out a little.

Willyslover--HVAC needs to drop in and aim that 5" pipe at your little window there and rap it out a little #ad



[This message has been edited by Vaughn MacKenzie (edited 07-20-2000). ]

 

[Archive]

Thanks Vaughn for the great posts!

Thats one of my only gripes about the truck, and have been trying to decide what to do about it for awhile.

Will probably get some shorter spacers for the 4x.

------------------
2000, 13k miles,4x,qc,6sp,3. 54,285/75r16 bfg/at's, VA, popup cmpr, 9000 lbs,14. 5-16. 5 mpg, WB6BFD for ID.

 

[Archive]

On replacing the 4" blocks in the rear, you can go to any 4x4 or auto parts store and get a 3" block lift kit for the rear. They come with new u-bolts and 3" blocks. Pull the 4's and replace with the 3's and sock the new u-bolts in there and you are done. One word of caution, if those 4" blocks have an angle on them it will mess up the angle of your driveshaft if you replace it with a straight block.

 

[Archive]

Hey you guys what are you up to??? Actually I had pulled my overloads and rubbing blocks along with the spare and trailer hitch. A light Ram is faster then otherwise.

I volunteer to trip up to Gary's to invoke the aroma of high performance, essence de #2 ala mode #ad

 

[Archive]

HMMM... . I'd like to get the rear end UP a little when my camper is on. Think moving the overloads UP an inch or two would do it?

------------------
tedstruck 2500qc, no leather or abs
bigfoot & other travel pics 1500 bigfoot, no auto waterheater or microwave.
Cool Summit Pass Pics, & Alaska Journal

 

[Archive]

Hell, youre welcome to take my overloads and add em to yours...

I think a few puffs of HVAC's "Chanel #2" might do some good to these purple-haired iguanas struttin their stuff down Sunset Blvd in Hollywood... . heehee

------------------
2000, 13k miles,4x,qc,6sp,3. 54,285/75r16 bfg/at's, VA, popup cmpr, 9000 lbs,14. 5-16. 5 mpg, WB6BFD for ID.

 

[Archive]

Having placed well over the "stated" load rating in the bed of my truck... Otherwise know as (3,300lbs of wet screenings) I'm sort of surprised to see most guys get the overload springs. Even with this much weight, the truck "only" looked level, instead of the rear end up in the air. I don't have the overload springs and can't imagine wanting or needing them. It would be nice to order the sway bar seperately, instead of being a package deal.

------------------
98. 5' 24v 2500 Auto/3. 54 4x4 SB QC. Everything but leather. PIAA driving lights, AMSOIL oil filter relocation system,Smittybuilt Stainless Steel Nerfs,Rhino Liner,K&N air filter. Somehow lost my silencer Ring.

 

[Archive]

I actually ADDED leaf springs to my truck to increase weight carrying capacity by 3000 lbs. Previously the back of the truck would sit a little lower than the front with 4500 lbs in the bed. Did I do a bad thing??

------------------
1996 3500 Clubcab SLT, auto, 4. 10 limited-slip, TST #5, Psycotty Air, Dunrite converter, Trans-Go shift kit, Straight pipe, DiPricol EGT, boost & trans temp. gauges, 9 ft. aluminum flatbed and tool boxes with Venco dump. Custom front bumper, Hadley air horn.

 

[Archive]

HVAC. . Your welcome anytime... as usual the beer is cold and the temps up here are much cooler than the S. J. Valley. . remember it's summer time and the smokey patrol is on the increased levels. . they use radar around the corners in the passing areas and the back side of the down hill. .

OL' Gimp

 

[Archive]

I also want to remove my overloads, will this make any difference in my load carrying capicity?

thanks,Joe

------------------



98. 5 quad cab,sport. short box,4X4,automatic,3. 55
L. S. D. trailer/tow & camper pkg. emerald green with lots of diamond plate. stock
except,255X16 tires and
no decals!

 

[Archive]

Luna - Removing the overloads will not change the weight carrying capacity but will change the way the truck handles the load.
My overloads help take some of the bounce out of the ass end when loaded but the ride is still to soft and I think an added leaf or 2 would be wonderful.