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Do shift kits WORK? and which one? Please answer.

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Im looking into a valve body or shift kit for my 48re... Mostly used for towing a 13,000# 5er..... Ok everone says get a TC/VB,heres my issue-use tow/haul mode,the truck 05 3500 dualy, 5. 9CTD,4:10,gauges,edge/attitude,BHAF,Hiflow muffler, and works fine except hi EGT on hills... maybe a water/meth kit? Truck shifts fine and having no problems yet! So I would like to do a shift kit-Transgo-Dunrite-?... . no TC yet,like to do it this winter. Has anyone done a kit and how does it work for you?Dont want a harsh shift (wife uses truck too). If a VB is better, why? Im a retired dodge tech so I know what does what, but I"m looking for what you think about the kits out there. The problem I have is, if it not broke, leave it alone... . Rich
 
They are a complete waste of money, and do nothing to solve the real problems associated with automatic transmissions in diesel trucks. Yes, they may move the shift pressure around an deliver a crisper shift, but what you really need to be worried about is the heat your transmission gives off. The stock Dodge automatic 47 or 48 Re is at best adequate for the job. But up the Hp, tow large and heavy loads, run larger tires or try your luck at the strip or sled pulling and you will soon (very) be needing a replacement transmission. And just going back to the same old thing with a rebuilt trany is like tossing your cash in the fire barrel, it just don't work. The new transmission failed so what would make you think a re-built (worn out once) trany will last any longer.

The only real way to go, is with a improved transmission. You have seen all the adds in the TDR, and you have read all the post by those that have gone out and spent the extra dollars needed to turn the stock unit into one that will not only last, it works much better. Key here is it's a combination of changes that make it work. Just replacing the VB, or Torque converter will not do it, you need to think package deal, and it's this broader overall concept that works and works very well. In my opinion, anything less then the complete package is a waste of money and time. You will not get all the benefits, and it will still fail. I would say to anyone that has a 2007 or older truck with an automatic your first line of defense should be a quality cooler and a gauge. The stock trany alert warning light only lets you know you just killed your tany, it does nothing to protect it. The worst offender to any transmission is HEAT. So invest that money now in a good quality transmission fluid cooler. This is the best thing you can do to keep your stock trany from frying itself. Then if you plan on keeping your truck around for any length of time, start saving for a new transmission package. Right now they go for around $5k, but after you have one you'll feel better about that amount. Till then get yourself a cooler and a transmission gauge.





A great place to start looking is right here www.proweldperformanceparts.com
 
Replaced my 2001 TC and VB and ran the truck pulling loads in excess of 30,000+lbs on a regular basis running hot shot. Truck had only the factory cooler. I replaced the TC at 85,000 w/ a BD TC and then at 243,000 w/ a DTT TC. I ran that truck for 403,000 miles and traded it in with it running great. A quality TC and VB of your choice along with regular transmission maintenace will do you a great job.
 
If you are just worried about the EGT's get a Quad boost fooler and that will help your EGT's quite a bit. Add a BD OD lockout controller and that will help with any shifting back and forth problems at lower speeds. Unless you are really dissatisfied with the performance of the trans don't spend a bunch of money on all the HiPo parts.



If you want some more performance out of your trans then consider going to a good TC/VB combo. Unless you are really going to thrash the trans, you don't need a whole lot of changes to make it a much better unit. The coolers are quite adequate for your weight and adding another is a waste of money. These trans missions will stay at a decent temp if you can keep them in lockup. What really needs to be addressed is the sloppy TC and screwy throttle pressure controller that causes so many shifting issues, the lack of OD lockout, and the inability to keep the TC locked. Those problems are easy to solve and will allow you handle a bit more power also. :)
 
If you're not going to be sled-pulling, or drag racing, a good torque convertor and valve body works very well in the 48re. Get a transmission temp gauge to monitor the temps, and it should last a long time, even turned up, a little. It's like driving a whole different truck.
 
I have installed several of the trans-go kits and feel that they work well. I built a 47rh for a friend several years ago and he has put close to 300k on it since with no troubles. I have not done one of the new ones with the TTVA. I understand that the TTVA is not directly tied to throttle position so line rise does not go hand in hand with power output of the engine as it should. I believe DTT has addressed this with a new controller, but I haven't used one.

Fluid cooling is sufficient on your truck as long as the converter is locked up. If you spend much time with it unlocked and under a load, temps will rise quick. A good cooler will help, but the best solution is a good converter and keep it locked as much as possible.
 
Rams-N-Hogs
I notice that you have a Gorend VB and TC and 558 HP. I'm stock now (except for a Smarty) and I'd like to get just about that amount of power. I've got 22,000 miles on trans and it works well but it's stock. Do you think if I just put a VB and TC and maybe input shaft that I'll be able to drag race some (maybe /maybe not boosted launches-not that I can't replace trans if it breaks, but I'd like to plan this upgrade stuff... ) Or do you think it's necessary to do the trans overhaul thing before drag racing?
 
Do you think if I just put a VB and TC and maybe input shaft that I'll be able to drag race some (maybe /maybe not boosted launches-not that I can't replace trans if it breaks, but I'd like to plan this upgrade stuff... )



and a flexplate... . and be prepared if your output shaft goes on boosted launches... . granted, that one's safer and easier to replace... .
 
OK, I've got to ask this. I pull an 8,000 pound travel trailer. The only thing as far as a boost to the engine goes is the edge power box. I've pulled my trailer all over, and have never had a transmission problem. The temp sending unit is on the line going to the cooler. It has run over 220, usually in town when it is hot outside. I do have the transmission serviced every 12,000 miles. Change fluid and filter. So, did I just get lucky and get a good transmission? I have been told what y-not has said. IF the transmission goes bad, then buy a built for diesel transmission, not another one from Chrysler.
 
I think alot has to do where you live and how you use the truck. Also when you pull a trailer, where you go and how you get there. I can easily see people that live in the western part of the county where it is all flat land having better luck then those that live in the mountains. It only holds well that the truck is used more in areas where there is more load put upon it. Same goes for towing, it you constantly pull thru mountainous passes your going to use up the trany faster. My transmission was replaced with only 38,000 on it and less then 6,000 miles of towing. At the time I never really had a large (heavy) trailer, one at 8K and one at 10K lbs. I too performed regular maintenance but did not have the since to install a quality oil cooler on the transmission. Other then the above my truck was used primarily for commuter work, very low load. I suppose it's in the luck of the draw, Chrysler never relay gave much effort to fixing the situation and with the constant horsepower wars going, they just could not stay up with it and the transmission got the worst of it. I guess 25% not good mileage out of them, 25% had eerily failures and the rest fell in between.

I never really gave the transmission a thought before I purchased my truck, but would not have bought another Dodge with the 47 or 48 in it. This new 68 or the ASIAN automatic look very promising, but then again only time and miles will tell.
 
So, did I just get lucky and get a good transmission? I have been told what y-not has said. IF the transmission goes bad, then buy a built for diesel transmission, not another one from Chrysler.





Not really, your experience is pretty much the norm. Service the trans frequently, drive it correctly and your chances of having trouble are relatively low, even with added power. Abuse or neglect it and I guarantee it will be problematic.



The transmission problems are blown way out of proportion by the few that have them. The reasons for the problems are many and varied but they are still a very small minority of the total owners. I guarantee there are many, many, many more problem free miles put on these trucks than the problematic ones. My kids and I have had 4 trucks averaging over 250k and problems with only 1 at about the 200k mark. This includes lots of heavy towing in hills and mountains of the west. Yeah, for those that think its flat out here, take a trip some time. :-laf



As for replacing it with a better trans, why get a stock rebuild when a solid purpose built is about the same or a bit more? The few exta dollars are well worth the performance and peace of mind. :)
 
Rams-N-Hogs

I notice that you have a Gorend VB and TC and 558 HP. I'm stock now (except for a Smarty) and I'd like to get just about that amount of power. I've got 22,000 miles on trans and it works well but it's stock. Do you think if I just put a VB and TC and maybe input shaft that I'll be able to drag race some (maybe /maybe not boosted launches-not that I can't replace trans if it breaks, but I'd like to plan this upgrade stuff... ) Or do you think it's necessary to do the trans overhaul thing before drag racing?



I would do the shafts, and the flexplate, if I was going to drag race, or sled pull.
 
The reason I wanted a shift kit is to clean up the shifting and some how increase my line pressure( its computer controled in a limited way)... no throtle cable... Yes I have an extra trans cooler w/fan mounted under my Cab and I monitor the trans Temp w/2 gauges(output line and pan). When towing at a GCVW of 22,800#. I live in N. NJ and go dn into W. Va and NC and been out west to the Rockies now those are some Hills! Thats why I was looking at a Kit . . My trans works great but still feels some what sloppy . . I ordered the BD Overdrive Lockout controler,waiting for it to come in. . Needed this to get some control like the 06 have w/tow-haul,mine is an 05 w/out OD lockout. .
 
The reason I wanted a shift kit is to clean up the shifting and some how increase my line pressure( its computer controled in a limited way)... no throtle cable... Yes I have an extra trans cooler w/fan mounted under my Cab and I monitor the trans Temp w/2 gauges(output line and pan). When towing at a GCVW of 22,800#. I live in N. NJ and go dn into W. Va and NC and been out west to the Rockies now those are some Hills! Thats why I was looking at a Kit . . My trans works great but still feels some what sloppy . . I ordered the BD Overdrive Lockout controler,waiting for it to come in. . Needed this to get some control like the 06 have w/tow-haul,mine is an 05 w/out OD lockout. .



Do a torque convertor, and valve body. You will be pleasantly surprised.
 
The reason I wanted a shift kit is to clean up the shifting and some how increase my line pressure( its computer controled in a limited way)... no throtle cable... Yes I have an extra trans cooler w/fan mounted under my Cab and I monitor the trans Temp w/2 gauges(output line and pan). When towing at a GCVW of 22,800#. I live in N. NJ and go dn into W. Va and NC and been out west to the Rockies now those are some Hills! Thats why I was looking at a Kit . . My trans works great but still feels some what sloppy . . I ordered the BD Overdrive Lockout controler,waiting for it to come in. . Needed this to get some control like the 06 have w/tow-haul,mine is an 05 w/out OD lockout. .



TC/VB will definitely help but it won't clean up the shifting problem by itself.



Line pressure is not computer controlled in any way and is not the root problem. Raise the line pressure too much and the trans will go into limp mode frequently. The throttle pressure is where the control issues reside and that is due to the electronic TV controller and what the ECU expects for pressure at a certain voltage load. Get too far out of the parameters and it causes codes.



DTT has a controller on the market that will allow you to tune the shifting and TV pressure rise on stock and modified VB's. You might want to give it a try and see if that will address what you are not liking.
 
Not really, your experience is pretty much the norm. Service the trans frequently, drive it correctly and your chances of having trouble are relatively low, even with added power. Abuse or neglect it and I guarantee it will be problematic.





When I ordered my powerstroke in 98 as a 99 model year, I was told awful things about the transmission, too. I did the same service that I do on my Dodge, and with 170,000 plus miles (at trade in), pulling a 8,000 pound travel trailer all over, I never had a bit of problem with it.



When I talked to a dealer about the Edge Powerbox, I was told that position #1 is for general running around, #2 was for towing, and #3 was for seeing how fast you could loose the transmission. So, it has never seen #3, and it never will as long as I drive it.



I know a lot of people who are towing with the 48E, and nobody has had any problems. I'm beginning to think that all the trans problems are caused by people trying to get as much HP out of the Cummins, but not doing anything to boost the transmission.



Anyway... very interesting topic. Thanks,
 
Does the truck shift any differently (crisper / cleaner shifts) or run any cooler after changing the fluid to a synthetic? Just curious. thanks
 
I live in Alaska and interested in having a DTT VB and TC installed here without driving out to have it done. Does DTT do something extra to the trans that would be different than having those individual parts installed, ie. merit me making the drive to BC to have it done by them? I don't pull real heavy loads but for the time being have this rig for the mileage and enjoyment. Any suggestions are welcomed. Also, does anyone in AK reccomend a trans shop here in Anchorage?
 
When I installed the SunCoast triple disc TC and their new DC487 VB, the increased line pressures caused extremely hard shifts and high pressure codes.

The folks at SunCoast had me install a 100 ohm resistor in the pressure sensing line and that fixed it. transmission is now shifting great, nice solid shifts that get harder the heavier you are with the go pedal. Light pedal, easy shifts.

I'm expecting to get a lot more miles out of my OEM transmission with the upgrade. My TT is 8,000# and I'm not in a hurry to drag race up the hills with it. The controller will take care of the TC staying locked up.

I have installed an external oil filter kit in the oil cooler return line which added another quart of fluid capacity. I'm going to add an additional transmission cooler before I start pulling any hills.

One comment though: The new SunCoast 3 disc TC dropped my transmission temps about 20* or maybe more. I'm pretty sure that is because it goes into lockup at 38 mph and stays locked up.
 
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