Dodge Cummins..NOT WORTH IT!

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Well... ... ... .....
My truck was not considered for buyback. My next option to run over it with my D-9... . Hmmmmmmmm. . sounded good at the time but wife said no. As far as looks, yes, the Dodge is an awsome looking truck, BUT... I falied to mention that Ive been to several brake shops and they all tell me that my Dodge will always pull. The dealer installed a spacer to correct the right side pull, but they put it on the left tire. Now it pulls like **** to the left! Now, in this election year, I can't have my truck or anything else of mine pulling to the left! Today, Ive given up my crusade and spent another $600 plus for a new set of Michleins. . I went up in size from a LTX 245 16 to a LTX 265 16, just to get rid of the "roller skate" look. I also had them reinstall the wheel spacer on the floor behind the driver seat. Funny thing... Now I have only a slight pull to the right. Im not sure if it was by removing the spacer or the new tires. Ive been told that I have to have my computer reprogramed to adapt to the larger size tire, another $50 spent. I first need to see if I really need to do that. Tomorrow, I will reward this truck with an oil change and a new fuel filter. At that time I will throw a bout 80mil of PROZAC in the tank, works wonders, and head to my local brake shop and PAY to have 2 new calipers installed. I saw a few posts up that everyone seems to think that is the problem, along with the rear brake adjustment. Im game to try try again. I am tho thinking of installing rear disc's on this puppy, just like the 2001. I drove a 2001 the other day. Got it up to 85 on the freeway, told the salesman to hold on, as he looked alittle puzzeled, and then SLAMMED ON THE BRAKES without Imight add having my hands on the wheel. That bad boy stopped straight as can be! Sad to say, if I did that in my truck, Id be doing loop de loops down the freeway. But! yall have given me the faith that this might be able to be fixed. I will keep you informed. $38,000 was alot to spend to be blessed with these problems, but as for the fuel sender, I talked with the guys at Transfer Flow, (10 miles from my ranch) in Chico and they are going to set me up with a 100 gallon fuel tank with a bullet proof sender. Hey, whats another few thousand anyway. Well, thank you all for your 2 cents worth. One last question tho, Whats a 99 DORF? I may want to trade! #ad
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98 Quad Cab 4X4 Cummins Automatic Totally loaded Minus fuel sender plus right brake pull, no extra charge!

 

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Holy Schmit, BatBoy!

What a transformation, Phillipo! Sounds like YOU'RE the one who's dropped a little Prozac into his tank. I was seriously concerned, there for a while, that you were going to drive the dozer over your wife and elope with your dealer...

(okay, that's a stretch... ) #ad
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I'm glad you've decided to give your sled another chance. We would'a missed your *****ing... #ad


Transfer Flow strategy sounds pretty good. I've been thinking of doing something similar. Glad you're still with us and haven't left the reservation driving a Phord.

 

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Before I got my 99 2500 diesel, I had a 97 2500 gaser. I had alot of problems with pull to the left. I took it to the dealer and they said it was pulling to the crown in the road. That told me that they didn't know anything. A couple of days later, it was rainning and I stopped at a stop sign and the driver side rear brake locked up. Now with anti-lock brakes, this shouldn't be able to lock one brake. I found that the passenger rear brake wasn't ajusted right and the drive side was doing all the braking. I ajusted the pasenger brake and the truck stop pulling. Every time that I have had the problem, the brake needed ajusting. I don't think the auto-ajuster works on that brake. I don't know if this will help, just thought I would let everyone know.

 

[Archive]

Originally posted by Michael Hughes:
Before I got my 99 2500 diesel, I had a 97 2500 gaser. I had alot of problems with pull to the left. I took it to the dealer and they said it was pulling to the crown in the road. That told me that they didn't know anything. A couple of days later, it was rainning and I stopped at a stop sign and the driver side rear brake locked up. Now with anti-lock brakes, this shouldn't be able to lock one brake. I found that the passenger rear brake wasn't ajusted right and the drive side was doing all the braking. I ajusted the pasenger brake and the truck stop pulling. Every time that I have had the problem, the brake needed ajusting. I don't think the auto-ajuster works on that brake. I don't know if this will help, just thought I would let everyone know.

Michael,I don' know if you are aware and I'm not sure it affects your 99, but Dodge has an up dated spring kit for the rear brakes at least for the 96 which I have. But if your having rear brake problems you may want to get a set. On my 96 the self ajusting spring on one rear wheel was not functioning right allowing the brake linings to ride against the drum and eventually the heat killed the drum. Just thaught you might want to know,hope it helps.

 

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In all his ranting, Phil has a good point! If we are spending enough to buy a new Mercedes, BMW or Audi... shouldn't we demand that the vehicle be as equally perfect??

 

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Phil,
I won't even start about my opinion of DC's "quality". I love my truck, but I now know why I've always bought Chevys. Enough said.

Now for something productive:

The front brakes on the new trucks are different. The rotors are floating, and the calipers are bigger (I believe they are dual piston). I think they were changed for 2001, but it may have been 2000.

As for the speedo, I doubt that going to 265's will make much of a difference. If you really want to fix it, you can change the driven gear on the speed sensor. I recently went to 255/85R16s, and figured that to correct my speedo, I needed to go from a 31 tooth to a 29 tooth driven gear. Should be in at the dealer today. The 29 tooth gear is PN: 52067629. Make sure you properly index the speed sensor in the t-case when changing the gear. (page 21-327 in the '97 service manual. )

Hope this helps,
Pete

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'97 2500 CC 4X4 5spd Sport
'83 K5 Blazer 350 TBI (ex 6. 2), 39. 5 TSLs, 3" lift, Dana 60/GM 14 blt, Detroits

 

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Phil-I did the transferflow 98 gal bed tank 2 weeks ago-took 7 hrs to install-good instructions and it works as advertised-I LIKE IT-only problem when pulling camper on trip 1 hr into trip passenger (wife) requests rest stop and the stock tank would take me 5 hrs before looking for fuel stop. Now I can go 20 hrs without refueling but thats 20 rest stops-oh well.

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1996-350 tst #5 plate, K&N air filter,Primeloc fuel filter kit,4" exhaust,Purodyne bypass oil fiter system, bigger injectors,b&m trans pan,Amsoil all around,temp gauges out the wazzo,much trans work,double tow 33' 5th wheel and 12' trailer w/motorcycle(Honda Valkyarie Interstate)Also have 1999-250-stock.
Installing Transfer-Flow 98 gal. bed tank, governor spring kit(BD), and Bill Kodalay's TC on 96 dualie.

 

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Phil,
The alignment guy at the local dealership put these bushings in on top of the steering knuckle/kingpin to fix my brake pull, after new calipers and lots of other b. s.
A year or two later another alignment shop (that kept bad mouthing Dodges) took the bushings out. BRAKE PULL ! Back to the dealer alignment rack, bushings in, brake pull gone. I think there could be a cause and effect there. #ad


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"Roadrunner"-96 4X4 club cab-12v-auto-3. 54 gears-Amsoil bypass filter - all Amsoil fluids-trans filter-britebox-shelfit-DeeZee boards-Rhino liner-Rancho 5 speed shocks-Hellwig rear antisway & overload springs-Warn 12000 lb. winch-dual redtop optimas-combo gauge and trans. temp gauge in pillar mount-255/85R16 Kelly MSR tires-custom pinstriping- Walker muffler-Cummins mudflaps-Tuff Country control arms-2" coil spacers

 

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Well Phil and the others that have a problem with DC's quality.
Things arn't any better on the other side of the fence. Copied this off the Ford site:

Below are excerpts from a letter that accompanied my truck to the dealership for warranty work. It has 81 miles on it. I finished the vehicle inspection this morning and discovered other problems that new owners should check on their rigs.
Please read, and I hope you have better luck with your rig.

ALR

After taking it out for an inspection drive to Larkspur Co. and back on the night of 13 Oct 00, we returned home and discovered smoke billowing from the right rear wheel well. The
aluminum wheel was too hot to touch, as was the caliper and rotor assembly. The left rear rotor and caliper assembly was only warm to the touch. Axle lube is also seeping from the right rear hub and has contaminated the brake pads. The rotor is also scored.
Daytime inspection of the assembly revealed that the caliper assembly is dragging on the rotor disk. This has likely damaged the rotor, caliper, and other components due to the heat generated by this failure. Due to the extreme temperatures encountered, I expect, at minimum, that the right rear seals, bearings, caliper, rotor, pads, and hub be replaced. The axle lube within the axle and required friction modifier will also need to be replaced, as will the tire due to probable heat damage.
A more appropriate fix may be to replace the entire rear axle. If you believe any of the ‘minimum’ work does not need to be accomplished, contact me at the below numbers before any work is done on this vehicle.
I also request to inspect any parts that come off of this vehicle before Phil Long Ford disposes of them.
Other warranty concerns that need to be addressed include the following:
- There is a 90 degree difference in Center-to-right and Center-to-left steering wheel lock. (Lock to Lock difference) It does not turn as sharp from one side to another. Greg Hoffman, service writer, told me this was due to toe in adjustment. A more likely explanation would be improperly adjusted steering stops.
- There is a rattle between the driver’s side doors at speeds over 60 MPH that I believe is
caused by the gasket between the doors rattling.
- There is a driveline shudder when accelerating from a dead stop. Service writer Greg Hoffman initially told me that this was because of tire and differential slippage. This is not likely since it happens under moderate acceleration on dry pavement.
- There is a significant hum, buzzing, droning noise from the tires between 45 and 60 MPH, however, this may go away with some wear.
- Truck pulls to the right slightly, however, this may be related to the right rear hub problem.
- FW-16 level reading is 1. 0 from radiator petcock. It should read 3. 0 or greater and will require at least 4 pints of FW-16 additive to bring it up above 3. 0.
- Automatic transmission is overfilled by ½ inch of fluid level.
- Missing dust cap off of upper left front swaybar endlink.
- Drivers door shuts harder than other three, even when others are open.
- There was significant sediment that came from the radiator petcock when I checked the
FW-16 level.

I wish him a lot of luck, seems Ford forgot a nut that holds the axle in.
http://forums. ford-diesel.com:8080/ubb/Forum15/HTML/003173.html

Don

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2001 Dodge Ram SLT 2500 QC 5spd 3. 55lsd, Short Bed,Black Sport W/Cummins TD

Member Great Lakes TDR

NRA Member.

[This message has been edited by Don Marriott (edited 10-21-2000). ]

[This message has been edited by Don Marriott (edited 10-21-2000). ]

[This message has been edited by Don Marriott (edited 10-21-2000). ]

 

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I looked up a brake problem for a friend of mine on ford diesel site. Not only are the some of the dealers missing the boat, ford should be have anchor tied to it and thrown in the ocean.
Brake shimming(chattering) cause brakes over heating. Actually front disc over heating. Why because according those on ford site, ford put a 10mm disc on 3/4 tons(supposedly meant for 1/2 tons) should have put 13mm(this is width of space between disc to cool them down).
According to there TSB's ford says turn them, only replace if disc is beyond repair.
Ford will not pay to have 10mm disc replaced by 13mm disc.
Just about a mirror image of dc.
I've got a few problems with the Mule but I'll keep him/her(it) any way.

 

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Of the many Dodge dealers with-in a 30 mile radius from my house, non have a good diesel mechanic. I took my beast to the dealer that services my other trucks, and have never had to take the truck back for the same repair. If the dealer can't fix it, find an independent that has a reputation with diesel owners. Mine can fix any problem on the 1st try.