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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission door wont open 97 club cab

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission lmc grille

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Passenger side will crack just a little but not all the way to the safety catch. The drivers door has a couple inches from closed to the catch but the passenger side moves a half inch to an inch. Any thoughts?



Thanks,

Justin
 
Which side is giving the problem, passenger or driver? Not sure I fully understand which side is hanging up, but I can tell you from experience that the driver door on my truck failed at the lock mechanism attaching points which would not let the door open. I got lucky and was able to open the the door from the outside of the truck, but the interior handle would no longer fully release the mechanism and allow the door to open.

If you look at the good door, open it and look at the door lock mechanism. It is attached to the metal door shell with three bolts (torx I believe). Unfortunately, that metal door shell is very thin and the door is very heavy. What happened in my case was as the hinges failed over time the latch became mis-aligned with the striker on the cab and after repeated closings the force of slamming the door shut caused the door lock mechanism to rip or tear away from the door shell. The thin metal of the door shell fatigued and the mechanism was hanging in place only by the rods which connect to the outside handle and the inside handle to the lock mechanism itself. This caused the door mechanism to not fully release and the door was "stuck" shut. Not sure how to get the door open, but I'd start with working the handles and looking down in through the window channel to see if the mechanism is still in place or not?

Hopefully this is not the problem you have, but something to look for.
 
Its my passenger side that is stuck. Both handles feel like they are working. The door starts to open but only a little and I have to slam against it to make it close all the way.
 
Time to check around the Torx fasteners on the door lock

look at the door lock mechanism. It is attached to the metal door shell with three bolts (torx I believe). Unfortunately, that metal door shell is very thin and the door is very heavy. What happened in my case was as the hinges failed over time the latch became mis-aligned with the striker on the cab and after repeated closings the force of slamming the door shut caused the door lock mechanism to rip or tear away from the door shell. The thin metal of the door shell fatigued and the mechanism was hanging in place only by the rods which connect to the outside handle and the inside handle to the lock mechanism itself.

I've just had the same issue in the middle of a 1600 mile drive from FL to MN. The door would not shut, it was 6 a.m in Illinois, and the forecaster said 60 degrees below freezing with wind chill. I ended up using Gorilla tape on the outside entire perimeter of the door for the next day and a half. The metal had fatigued and split around the three Torx fittings, and the lock was hanging inside the door. I recommend you all take a look at these areas to check for these cracks. The steel is very thin.

Nick.
 
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