Dr. Performance or Banks Git kit

[RangerRick]

Any one got any ideas on this DR Performance gear. Sounds like some hi tech injectors and a reflash of the ECM for some good power. Very expensive, but they CLAIM they don't raise EGT's and don't need a pyro. Just checking out my options.



What about the Banks Ottomind in the Git kit? Does it hard wire or just plug in? Worth the money or just get an EZ or DDTM ????



Looking for about 50-75hp while keeping my warranty in check and not burning up my ETC



Thanks for all the help.



You guys are a new Cummins owners best friend.

Thanks Rick

 

[JMarkos]

I don't know about the Dr. Performance stuff but when I was looking into fueling boxes I looked at the banks and wasn't real impressed. I can picture my grandpa using it. It is basically closed loop so if your EGT's get over 1350 it automaticaly reduces fuel, I would rather be in control. That's the way I understood it.

 

[LSMITH]

Rick, if you are only looking for 50-75HP go for the EZ or a VA. They will both get you the gains you are looking for and save you a ton of money in the process. As far as not needing guages goes, that is pure BS in my opinion. These trucks should have had a boost and pyro (as well as a transmission temp guage if auto trans) when they came off the assembly line. To modify one and not have guages is russian roulette to me.

 

[Evan A. Beck]

IF I was you, I would go with this combo:



DD Stage 1 injectors

PE EZ box

Gauges



This will be perfect for what you want. Cheap too, only about a grand for the whole setup, if you install it yourself. Will add around 80 HP.

 

[Stefan Kondolay]

Evan's got the right idea, don't pay more than you need to. I had the DD2's and the EZ and loved it. I also ran the 275 and the EZ and that was real nice power. But be warned once you start it's tuff to stop.

 

[Archive]

Originally posted by RangerRick

Looking for about 50-75hp while keeping my warranty in check and not burning up my ETC

Rick... I am not so sure you can do what you want. If you are concerned about warranty, any change you make probably would be used against you in a warranty claim if it involved that part whatsoever.



If you wanted to be sneaky, you could get stealth injectors and some type of box that easily unplugs... like the VA or the EZ.



BTW, some dealers don't mind a few modifications... some will void your warranty at the first site of a BOMB.



Choose your options wisely, and make sure the ones you choose are good for YOU!

 

[RobMitch]

I went the Git Kit route. $945 plus $125 to install.

This isn't a real easy install. I think the shop earned the 125.

This also would not be an easy unplug, before going to the dealer, if that's what you had in mind. I also have my doubts about the 57 hp increase. If I had it to do over again I would go with an EZ and have $ left for guages, and other goodies.

 

[Fred Swanson]

EZ all the way. 5 minute install/uninstall.

Plus, with all you save, go get some gauges. You'll like knowing what's going on with your motor.

It doesn't have to be complicated or expensive to make the power you're after.

 

[Dave Ratcliffe]

Rick,



I think you're right on about the Dr. P. (Phase II) being an ecm reflash and injectors. I have a 2001. 5 ETH with Phase II. On their dyno, I was 206 hp stock and 286 hp after Phase II. I really like the way it runs. Mileage went up about 1 mpg.



I got mine installed at 1/2 price. Would I pay full price? Not after seeing the other options talked about on this site. It is a warranty friendly upgrade but if the dealer reflashes my engine, I may be running back to Dr. P. to get the ecm reset.



The biggest downside I've found is that now I want more power and I'm not sure what will work with this combination. I tried a boost module and performance really dropped and I got a high rpm stumble. Maybe it was a bad module but it has me wondering about what an EZ or VA box would do. Any suggestions would be welcome.



Plan on a 70 - 80 hp gain with Phase II. I think the 100 hp advertised claims really apply to early 24v trucks.

 

[JMarkos]

I have a question. Everyone says 5 minute uninstall, are you guys running the boost elbow? I think it would be more than 5 minutes to remove that or do you not have to? Won't you get an over boost code on the computer? I hooked my boost guage in right there with a tee, I have woundered if I would have to remove the elbow.

 

[Archive]

Originally posted by JMarkos

I think it would be more than 5 minutes to remove that or do you not have to? Won't you get an over boost code on the computer?

If you are worried about DC seeing the elbow and knowing what it is, then you would have to remove it, too. I think the 5 minute thing is just to say its quick and easy. The elbow should be pretty quick, also, but with your "T", it may be easier to leave it alone.

 

[Jetpilot]

JMarkos,



You are correct that you would need to remove the boost elbow if the EZ is unplugged or removed in order to not set off an overboost code... . This being the case it is more than a 5 minute install/removal if the boost elbow is installed.



Doug S.

 

[KatDiesel]

After you do it enough, 5 mins is plenty time to install the stock elbow and unplug the EZ. With a "T" in that location I don't know what would be the best thing to do.

 

[Mopar-muscle]

warranty ... hahahahaha

the ottomind puts a big honking scotchlok type connector on the pump wire ... repeat after me warranty VOIDED ... .



seriously its all up to your dealer what will void your warranty and what won't , i've take mine in and just stuck the PE up under the dash , left all the wiring in place and not a peep . its all a matter of what you can get away with , its hard to be stealth with BANKS POWER stickers stuck on the side of your truck ...



personally dd2's and an EZ , along with trans upgrade , more than enough power for most , but be careful the BOMB bug bites HARD

 

[24V-DSL]

Removing EZ for 01.5 Auto trans.

I hope I NEVER have to go to the dealer, but I'm curious if removing the EZ with it's built in boost module would cause over boost codes since I'd then be running on my DD2's without a boost module??



Would very gentle driving to the dealer not set off any code? If codes would be set under any driving without the boost module, then I'll never take off the EZ and take my chances rather than have them mess with my computer.



If not, then all the convenience of the 5 min. install and removal of the EZ is of no value for me.



BTW, I'm fully aware that with Bill K's stuff and DD2's I'm my own warranty station here, but I'm just curious about the answer to the above question. Like Mopar-muscle says, it all depends on your dealer and their attitude. As soon as any "savy" tech or lot-monkey drops my shift lever into reverse or drive, It's all over Man, I LOVE my DTT

 

[KatDiesel]

Re: Removing EZ for 01.5 Auto trans.

Originally posted by 24V-DSL

I hope I NEVER have to go to the dealer, but I'm curious if removing the EZ with it's built in boost module would cause over boost codes since I'd then be running on my DD2's without a boost module??

Well you have the HY35 don't you? You can't change the elbow on yours. But yes if you had an elbow in and removed the EZ even stock you can pull 25lbs of boost, so you would set off a code.



But you "should" have an HY35 which means there is no elbow to change on your truck. You'll have to use a different method to "defeat" the wastegate. There are several options out there. What boost level you currently run? Which turbo do you have?

 

[24V-DSL]

Sorry I misspoke

Kat... . guess I'm not on the right track here, which is no big suprise I thought the EZ with built in boost module was what prevented over boost codes, not the wastegate. I do have the HY 35.



Bill K. took off and "set" my wastegate with a lock-nut to allow for approx. 24lbs. boost, maximum, and that's what I get at WOT. Works great with the EZ and DD2's.



So, does that mean if I keep the boost in the 10-15 range by gentle driving with no EZ I won't set off codes?



thanks... . Joe

 

[Mopar-muscle]

yes if you don't go above 20 psi then you won't set a code , but the lot monkey might , you could put a piece of wood under the pedal so they can't go above a certian rpm , unless of course you do in for a drivability issue , but seriously DD2's can't be hidden , any savy diesel tech will know its more than the TC .



there was another way to fool the boost module , with a resistor , don't remember the value , but if you have a guage they will see it go above .

 

[KatDiesel]

Re: Sorry I misspoke

Originally posted by 24V-DSL

Kat... . guess I'm not on the right track here, which is no big suprise I thought the EZ with built in boost module was what prevented over boost codes, not the wastegate. I do have the HY 35.



Bill K. took off and "set" my wastegate with a lock-nut to allow for approx. 24lbs. boost, maximum, and that's what I get at WOT. Works great with the EZ and DD2's.



So, does that mean if I keep the boost in the 10-15 range by gentle driving with no EZ I won't set off codes?



thanks... . Joe

Ok so your wastegate is already modified. That changes things slightly. Yes if you unplug the EZ you will set off a code if and when you exceed 20psi, and your ECM will also defuel. Yes you could go easy on it, but chances are you'll set a code when you get distracted or something. Like I said with the PE off I could make 25 psi on my truck, no addtional fuel. And I am sure if you were taking it to a dealer they would give it enough throttle to set one.



The boost module does keep the code from being set as well as "fooling" the ECM so that it doesn't defuel when it sees the overboost. So this takes care of the electronic part of the matter.



The wastegate is the "physical" part of the equation that you have to change to allow more boost. If you just add a boost module and didn't do anything to the wastegate you'll still just make factory boost levels because your wastegate is opening and dumping out the boost. To build "higher" boost you have to delay, disable, modify the wastgate to not open around 20psi.



Does that explain it any better?

 

[24V-DSL]

Thanks....I get it

Thanks, Kat and Mopar-muscle. This whole wastegate thing has been very confusing to me... . disable it, don't disable it, etc. I ended up compromising and am happy.