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Competition Drag Racing Teqhnique/Tips

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Competition First bike "kill".

Off Roading NFAB wheel to wheel steps

It really doesn't matter how fast your vehicle is, just reaction time and being consistant.

Work on your reaction time. Try and get a perfectly timed launch every time.

Most races are won and lost at the starting line not at the finish line. Why give up a 1/4 of a second or worse to the other guy?????:confused:

After that you are just along for the ride. And boy what a ride it can be... . :-laf



In heads up racing 0. 400 is perfect, 0. 399 and you red light and are automaticallly DQ #@$%! unless the other driver redlights more:rolleyes: .



Their is a phrase in drag racing, "You snooze, you loose". Watch professional drivers after every race they are practicing the light for reaction time.



Most pros (see top fuel) are within 0. 010 seconds or better of a perfect light every time.



Drag racing:

Been their, done that, and it still is a blast. ;) Just do it at the track not on the highways.
 
First start with a two wheel drive, do some of the things we do on super stockers, with shocks springs, and Caltrac’s . Leave at a little above a idle, using a progressive nitrous system. You use the brake light as a trigger wire on the controller and set the TPS to 20% throttle. The first channel is “enabled “by the trigger and ramps up 2% at 2 lbs of boost to 10 % at 5 lbs boost. The second channel uses the same solenoids, and is “disabled” by the trigger, and ramps from 10 % at 5 lbs boost to 100% at 30 lbs boost.



This is good for a 1. 62 sixty foot with a M&H drag radial street tire. And the way the power is rolled on doesn’t break parts, “yet “
 
First start with a two wheel drive, do some of the things we do on super stockers, with shocks springs, and Caltrac’s . Leave at a little above a idle, using a progressive nitrous system. You use the brake light as a trigger wire on the controller and set the TPS to 20% throttle. The first channel is “enabled “by the trigger and ramps up 2% at 2 lbs of boost to 10 % at 5 lbs boost. The second channel uses the same solenoids, and is “disabled” by the trigger, and ramps from 10 % at 5 lbs boost to 100% at 30 lbs boost.



This is good for a 1. 62 sixty foot with a M&H drag radial street tire. And the way the power is rolled on doesn’t break parts, “yet “







Wait... What!? :confused:

Progressive nitrous system... ? I just wanna know how to get my not too fast daily driver goin down the track as fast as possible Oo.
 
the progressive Nitrous system from NX is incredibly easy and inexpensive, its so simple any one can tune like the pro’s used to with a whole box full of switches , relays , and hob switches , and cost much less. This system plugs in to you lap top and you just point and click what you want it to do, it’s that easy
 
the progressive Nitrous system from NX is incredibly easy and inexpensive, its so simple any one can tune like the pro’s used to with a whole box full of switches , relays , and hob switches , and cost much less. This system plugs in to you lap top and you just point and click what you want it to do, it’s that easy





... am i missing something here??



and tune like the pros USED to? just out of curiosity, how do the pros do it now?
 
I'm going with keep it simple & fun while learning to be consistent for first season of racing. Staying stock except for complete DTT build.
 
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