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Driver lost control down mountain

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I bet the left side had three missing lug nuts and shifted too much pin weight to the right tire which resulted in total failure.
 
I bet the left side had three missing lug nuts and shifted too much pin weight to the right tire which resulted in total failure.

Maybe you feel it is ok to run around minus nuts and bolts holding your truck together. I see each fastener as necessary since the OEM could have saved a ton of money by simply leaving it off if it wasn't needed.



Since the vehicle in the pictures is missing lug nuts it immediately brings the owner’s judgement and maintenance habits into question. Who would consider loading up their truck heavy and then heading down a steep mountain pass without their wheels bolted on tightly? What else did he neglect on the vehicle?



Both sides of the SRW vs DRW argument have made some good points. In this case it probably would have made no difference what so ever, since the brakes do not care how many tires are bolted to the hub. I think we can all agree that good sound judgement is the most important factor. Carelessness and stupidity cannot be overcome with another pair of tires. Adjusting your driving style to suit your equipment and conditions is key.
 
One thing missing in this srw vs drw argument is weight per square inch of tire contact area. While duels spread the weight over a larger area for greater carrying capacity, it also reduces the weight per square inch for traction, both accelerating and decelerating. Granted you have a greater contact area with duals but halving the contact pressure reduces 'locked up brake' effectiveness. Same is true for pulling traction. I find my current dually slips in the wet pastures with a livestock G-neck where my srw 2500 did not. That said, I prefer the drw when I get out of the pasture and get on the highway at speed. Haven't had to do a panic stop on dirt or gravel yet while towing but this will factor into how I drive on those type roads now.
 
Them Fords don't have the best brakes IMO. I have seen contractors overheat them many times. Still, a driver needs to know the dynamics of both the tow vehicle and the RV's brakes. Get them hot enough and they will fade especially with poor fluid maintenance.



The lug nut thing is kinda bonehead but hey. . it is still bolted on so probaly not the cause here.



It worked out in this case with no injuries but still seems kinda odd he was able to bail without any injury at all and the wife was behind to pick him up. Suspicious but in any event brakes or otherwise he may have not had a better choice.
 
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Defensive strategies include but are not limited to: disc brakes on the trailer, BrakeSmart controller, manual transmission on the truck, exhaust brake and most of all, not getting the brakes hot going down a hill. Of course, you also need to keep it on the road, letting the trailer tires drop off the pavement in a situation like this can cause something like this.



Anyone who has pulled any kind of trailer could have had something like this happen. Doing everything you can to prevent it is the best you can hope for. It is a miracle that the only damage done here was to property.
 
I don't think I'd be interested in any wheels with spacers or adapters between the lug nut and the wheel. Especially doing any kind of towing.
 
Yes they are. If you notice the stud that has no nut on it you will see the wheel is built with no taper at the base so a flat washer is required to clamp the wheel down. The wheel is hub centric only. Nuts are oe as well as that wheel.
 
There are tapers on mine. I do not have the washer looking items between my lug nuts and wheels that are marked in the earlier photo. It appears those wheels on that crashed truck are after market.
 
Where is Dick Tracy when you need him.

I guess ford thought they had a better idea. Looks like a pp setup to me.

And I repeat:
I don't think I'd be interested in any wheels with spacers or adapters between the lug nut and the wheel. Especially doing any kind of towing.

In one of the photos, the area in question almost looks like a lock washer.
 
A 2000 F-250 came in the shop today, same wheels and lug nuts. Actually its a pretty good design IMO. The one that went down the mountain probably was just missing a nut due to lack of proper torque. They want 165 lbs on these.

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I will give duals ONE major advantage: If you have a flat tire with a single, you are done. With duals, you can generally limp it in to a shop if you aren't too heavily loaded.



But overall, I think you have seen the beginning of the end of duals in the trucking industry.



I will NEVER run singles (wide base) on a big truck.



1. Assuming it wasn't a steer tire, you can still limp to get it fixed. VERY important with a bullrack. Especially on a hot day with hogs.



2. Blow a single out in the sticks ( I am frequently. ), there is a slim chance the tire shop will have what you need. And if they can get you fixed up, you better have some Vaseline. It's gonna hurt.



3. Better chance for a damaged rim if a single blows on a loaded rig.
 
Blow a single tire... uhhhh . . put the spare on... duuuhhhh!

I use 245/70R-19. 5" on my old 2500 and I use a Spare in the Bed. . . I am going to use the same tires on my new 09.
 
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