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Driveshaft woes

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I noticed some vibration yesterday. Front driveshaft CV joint is toast and my rear steady/carrier bearing has torn up the rubber. This is on my 05 3500 DRW. The carrier bearing was just replaced a couple years ago. The rubber boot was damaged near the carrier bearing. I'll need a new one of those and the clamps to hold it on.

My mechanic won't rebuild front driveshafts. He will only install new ones. This won't be an inexpensive fix. I need to find my self another parts truck but this time a QC LWB truck. My ignition switch quit the other day and I stole one from my parts truck. Best $1200 I've spent.

Any advice?
 
I had my front drive line rebuilt for right around $200 with Spicer joints and balanced but all the local shops were a lot more expensive so I shipped it to Santa Rosa drive line in California, call around and see what you can find!
 
380$ for the latest Revision of the OEM Driveshaft from Mopar, bought brandnew at Rockauto 1 month ago.

Bought it after a failed attempt to rebuild the Shaft.
 
Steady bearing hasn't been an issue on my 2003 with 70,000 more miles than this 2005. The biggest difference is the 3500 is pretty much always loaded.
 
Towing will kill the support bearing quickly, especially with a manual trans. WAY too much TQ transmitted with a loaded vehicle and manual trans on a cheap bearing.
 
Thanks Blackcherry, I checked out their site. It looks like the solution for my problem. I'm a long ways from Texas and there's a pesky border in the way. I'll order one when I have the $. I'll have a spare for my 03 as my the 05 is always loaded or towing.
 
Thanks Blackcherry, I checked out their site. It looks like the solution for my problem. I'm a long ways from Texas and there's a pesky border in the way. I'll order one when I have the $. I'll have a spare for my 03 as my the 05 is always loaded or towing.

Took the Driveshaft Specialist route myself 4 yrs ago. Yes on the "expensive", but one of the very best mods (especially for heavyweight towing) that I've done to my truck.

Steve
 
They are SUPER good people to work with. If there are any issues, they will take care of you.

As far as the 2 piece is concerned; "if" there was a flange on the transfer case instead of the slip joint it would be better. The short stub swashes back and forth in the slip joint and is only held axially by the carrier bearing. Both of my failures took out the extension housing seal because the stub slides forward when the rubber comes apart. Real treat to try to limp home like that.
 
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