Driving Lights

[JWaugh]

does anyone know where the relay or fuse is for the driving lights? i tried to hook up a set of H. I. D. lights in place of my factory driving lights. i used the factory wiring to control the relay i installed for the new lights but something must have gone wrong as it cooked the relay and now reguardless of the key being on/off with the headlights off there is still 12volts going to the driving lights on the factory wiring. anyone have any advice on this?



thanks in advance

 

[B.G. Smith]

The lights have 12v all the time, the ground is switched and I believe each headlight has seperate overload protection. b g

 

[JWaugh]

ok, i can buy that, but if that is the case then why do i always have continuety to ground on the driving light harness? when i measured the voltage to the lights it was key off lights off and still had 12volts measured across the plug for the lights and not to frame ground? did something get cooked in the process?

 

[B.G. Smith]

ok, i can buy that, but if that is the case then why do i always have continuety to ground on the driving light harness? when i measured the voltage to the lights it was key off lights off and still had 12volts measured across the plug for the lights and not to frame ground? did something get cooked in the process?

Probably not, do your head lights still work on high and low beam? You may be reading continuity through another bulbs in the circuit like the clearance light/parking light??? bg

 

[JWaugh]

it shouldn't be getting continuety to ground if the ground side is what is switched by the ecm because it would need to be a dedicated ground to control just that circuit.

 

[JWaugh]

the head lights work on low and high beam, i am not aware of any other issue with the truck lighting or other wise. the driving lights even work when i reinstalled the factory lights. they don't light up with the 12 volts but when you turn on the driving lights it supplies 14 volts and the lights come on. i am quetioning whether or not it is getting voltage bled into the circuit but not sufficient amperage to light the lights. i have not had a chance to check the amperage when the lights are off and just getting 12 volts. maybe tommorow i will get a chance to check that. i was also told by another guy i know that the circuit supplies 40 amps when the driving lights are in use. i will check all the amperages and confirm.



btw thanks B. G. for your continued support on this issue

 

[seafish]

Check out some of the threads here on hid lighting. It seems as if the hid lights need a resistor placed in series with the hid lights in order to fool the "lamp out" circuit that also controls the headlights. The computer, if it does not see enough of a load (and the hids, thoughbrighter, draw many less amps then conventional lights, so the computer does not "see" them) somehow kills the circuit to the lights and then may try to restart them, and then kill them again, and then try to restart them again, and then kill them again, etc. etc. etc. , which, if I am reading your original post correctly, might be why the relay you hooked up burned out; Sorry if I haven't explained that too clearly, but search out the threads and you can read about it. Here is one--



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...-transmission-discussions/191334-how-hid.html

 

[CKelley1]

the 06 is wired differently than any other model. you need to get projectors to be legal and to keep from blinding other drivers. install a switch on the dash. run a 12 gauge wire through a 20 amp fuse from the battery to the switch to the ballast to turn on the head lights. the bi projectors use a solenoid to drop a shield for high beam. connect the solenoid to the lead that fed the high beam. and the other solenoid wire to frame ground and not to the headlight harness ground. it is not a real ground. do not connect any thing to the low beam wire either. no codes, no risk of burning out ecm- pcm, no resistors needed. there is a forum called hidplanet.com that may help you