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Dropping Fuel Tank

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secondary fuel pump question

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I tagged onto another post re: problems with the fuel tank and asked a question. Did not get a response so I will start a new thread and hope for an answer. Has anyone reading this dropped their tank? I looked underneath and the straps do not look difficult but the fuel lines are hidden from view and I am not sure about what needs to be done to get to them and separate the lines. As this would be an on the ground removal for me, it would be helpful to know what tools or help I might need.

Also, I mentioned I am getting a gurgling sound from the tank and then the pump keeps running instead of pressurizing and shutting off before starting. The truck is still running without issues but I suspect it is on borrowed time. So, is it a cleaning situation as mentioned in the other post or replacement? Or both? I have 127K on the truck. I can get a pump locally that has a lifetime warranty. Thanks for any advice I can get. Truck has had zero problems other than a slight trans/driveline howl after shifting to second when cold, so I don't mind spending money on it.

Mike
 
Dropping the tank after draining most of the fuel CAN be done. However, like you noted, the difficulty lies NOT in unbolting the straps and lowering the tank, but rather that the fuel and wiring connectors, which have complex and interlocking red plastic locking tabs, get so dirty under there that they can be extremely difficult to UNLOCK even with the prodigious use of WD40, wire brushes and compressed air to clean them. Of course you are doing all of that upside down, on your back with dirt falling in to your eyes while also using a mirror to see what you are doing and remembering to move your hand BACKWARDS from what you see in the mirror EVERY time you move your hand. LOL.

So all that being said, some people find that If they do not have a camper shell on the truck, it is actually MUCH easier to remove the four bolts that hold the bed into place and then simply lift and remove the bed from the truck with another freind. THEN you can see the entire fuel tank and pump assembly which makes it a cakewalk to clean and/or remove as necessary. BTW--don;t ask me how I know!!!
 
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Thank you Seafish. Did not consider going from the top. I do have a shell on board but that would not be difficult to release with the help of three friends.
 
FYI--there are different ways of removing the bed, one of which is simply removing the front bolts and loosening but NOT removing the rear bolts and then simply lifting the front of the bed up like a dump truck and then prop it up SAFELY. so you can work underneath it..This way you do not have to remove the tailights and it may be easier to realign the bed after you are done with the tank.

Whichever way you choose, do NOT do it like this guy does on youtube...LOL!!! Do check it out, it's actually worth a look as what NOT to do!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XoG626X1KKM
 
After looking at the video, it linked me to a fellow who tilted the bed of his 2007 Chev up on it's side, to do the job. He did it by himself, which may be beyond my ability anymore but looks doable. Need to look at how similar the Dodge might be.
 
I know on my 2003 Drw if you pull the dual wheels on the drivers side and the wheel well skirt you can get good access to the top of the tank
 
Assuming this is for your 04, some time ago they changed the SW to keep the pump running. So if you've had a flash done that may be why it doesn't shut off.
 
It is the 04.5. I just came from talking to a mechanic who said since there is not a relay in the fuse box, there should be one in the system elsewhere. Unknown where. But...he believes that since the pump runs all the time after starting, it's really not an issue that it no longer cycles off after 4-8 seconds when first keying the ignition on and waiting for the grid heater light to go off. I kinda see his point but it still leaves that little question mark in my mind that something changed and usually that ain't good. The only time it has been back to the dealer in many years was to do a recall on the airbag last year. I believe this started after that, although they could have done a reflash and I just did not notice it. I put some additive in the tank and will do so over the next few fills, or from now on, since this truck sits a little more than it did before I got the 14. Will also start adding some in the 14. Ounce of prevention as they say.

I also looked at my Cliffs Notes version of a repair manual you can buy at the auto parts store and it describes the fuel tank drop. Doesn't appear too daunting except at my age it's really difficult to work on my back. It's also the same for gas or diesel and you only remove the rear wheel if you have a short bed. Forgot I had this manual and ran across it by accident. That's also a part of the old age. Too much info stored upstairs in the brain locker and no room for more. Appreciate the comment about the flash.
 
They undoubtedly did the s/w update when it was in so there's nothing to worry regarding the fuel pump running.
I'll bet it also has the horn-honk when in reverse with the door open update as well.
 
Interesting. I will try that the next time I drive it. Makes one ask the question....why???? To alert you or the person behind you? Kinda like back up beepers on bobtails, etc? Likely another lawyer induced decision.
 
I believe there were
issues with the trucks not going into park all the way, then rolling off.

The flash ash that creates the out of park alarm will
honk if you open your door in reverse and even neutral, believe.

I was warned and told dealer not to do my '03
back when it came out, but my 05 had it before I owned it. It really startles both driver and nearby pedestrians when it does it.
 
Tried it with the door open and no honk. Still driving it with no issues but it's always in the back of my mind. I try to scan the road ahead for turnouts in case it abruptly quits.
 
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