dse in truck 04-05 CTD

[Msilbernagel]

cj,

I'm not sure I'd notice much if things were separating... it's all pretty much hidden in the tank! I tend to perform "just in time" mixing, blending in 55gal batches and immediately fueling the rigs.

I do see an increase in pressure after things have warmed up (on cool mornings) and have assumed that it's the heater in the fuel filter cannister that is probably doing this (my FP gauge is post filter). There's some chance that it could be that it's separating while parked and mixing back together while driving - both from the 'sloshing around' action and the fuel return...

I think the only way to tell would be to mix a batch and put it into something where the whole fuel column was visible - perhaps a quart jar or 5-gal plastic cube (etc)?

Mark

 

[BLove]

CJ

Do you sell this DSE to anyone. If so can you mail it? How much do you sell it for? and Do you make it yourself?



Also, there is and acronymn that I have not been able to figure out yet and it is used freely. It is the FASS pump. Can you tell me what the FASS mean?



Will appreciate a reply. Thanks BLove

 

[cj hall]

hummmmmmmmm

Hello BLove



F. A. S. S. Pump is (Fuel Air Separator System) thats what I have been told.



The shipping of the DSE stuff is done right will add another 20. 00 to the freight. the amount that they ship the small bottles is not breaking any laws but when you move in to bigger amounts then you have problems.



For a little cash I can tell you what it is and you can buy it at a bulk oil or fuel house.

I get mine at an oil supply house in Billings it comes in 5 gallon pails or 55 gallon drums the 5 gallons costs about 30. 00 and the drum goes for 265. 00 or so (last years price). then there is one other thing you need to put in it and I bet you you have some in your shop.



The mix ratio is 1 oz to 1 qt

Will find out what it will cost to send you 5 gallons of the stuff plus the cost of the product the more you try to break down the amount the more its going to cost you. one gallon of the additive would be about the smallest I would ship. the better buy is at 5 gallons.



I will email you on tuesday

cj hall

 

[cj hall]

dse style additive

Hello to All



I reserched the shipping of this product and I understand why when its shipped to you from DSE it comes in a unmarked box.



What UPS wants a person to do is unreal so I guess the best thing is to just charge for the info to make your own, what I am thinking is selling the info for like 50. 00 . Then what ever you do with that info is up to you.

Checked today and can buy it for 27. 95 for 5 gallons and a 55 gallon drum for 227. 50 so the price has not changed much in the last year.



The Additive is made from two products and they are common and easy to buy. THIS WILL GIVE YOU THE SAME PRODUCT AS YOU RECIVE FROM DSE.

PLEASE EMAIL FOR MORE INFO IF YOU WANT

Thanks for reading



cj hall

 

[fortunate1]

More injector pics

This will supplement the pics that CJ posted when he removed his injectors. Remember that mine is a 12-V with a P-pump, so things may be a little different that with a 3rd Gen like CJ's two trucks.

Background: these are 215's that I installed about 250K miles ago. They have not been touched since. For almost 200K of those miles I was running straight #2 with the occasional dose of PS cleaner. Then I found a Bio Refinery near me that sold B-100 straight from the plant, and for a lot cheaper than #2 at truck stops like Flying J. When the B-100 price went up to (and past) the #2 price, I switched back. Very soon after that, I started reading up on this thread about other options. Then I gathered together the items needed to filter & blend WVO from a local restaurant. I've used this blend (with my own version of the secret formula) for the last 18K miles with great success. Milage & power are unchanged from #2 or BD. Costs are drastically reduced. The following pics show 3 of the injectors right after removal and one of them after cleanup. The reason that I decided to pull and clean the injectors was because of some light smoke at idle. In the winter, I felt that it would be normal to see that. But now that it's warm, there shouldn't be any (my opinion about my truck). I found that the tips were pretty heavy with a hard carbon deposit that probably shut off some of the nozzle holes. The truck ran well and got good mileage up to this point, but the idle smoke made me think about clogged injector tips. They cleaned up very nicely, and there is no indication of wear from the outside. I didn't bother with any pressure or Pop-off testing. They are all back in the truck, and it still runs very well - but NO smoke at idle.

As a bonus - the inside of my valve cover with NO cleaning at all. This after about 150K miles since my last lash check. Even at that time, all I did was check - no adjustment was needed. The TP bypass filter works!!

 

[fortunate1]

Here is the valve cover

Clean oil means clean engine internals.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

fortunate1 after owning a couple 24-valves I am finding 12-valves seem to get tip buildup far more readily. I've pulled injectors on my '96 and '98 more than once and I'm always disappointed with what I find. Usually look like yours. This is running straight #2 as well as some bio mix. On my 2001 when I had DD2s I ran them 50k miles before pulling them to sell the truck. I was amazed how clean they were, basically a fine layer of soot, nothing else.

Anyway running bio in a 12v doesn't seem to make the injector tips get deposit buildup on the tips any faster than straight #2. I've been running quite a bit through my '98 on Bosch 300 injectors and it seems to burn it well. I've had the 300s in there for almost 10k miles. I'll probably pull them by 20k to put something else in, and I'll see then how much buildup they have.

That valve cover looks purdy clean

 

[cj hall]

fuel and other things

Hello to All



Nice to see other people using WVO and getting the same out come as I am getting.



This weekend should have gone camping but the camper was not ready so I worked on it and installed the last gauges in my truck only have two more sensors to hook up the temp at the fuel punp and the presure at the pump.



Helped install a fass unit on a 2001 Dodge with a heater in the tank building a new dip tube for it tonight should have it running wed.



Here are some pictures of the gauges. pic of fass and tank on wed .



JUST NOTICED THE CARBOYS IN THE REAR VIEW MIRROR. more fuel !!!!



Thanks for Reading

 

[Msilbernagel]

Hello to All



Nice to see other people using WVO and getting the same out come as I am getting. [snip]



JUST NOTICED THE CARBOYS IN THE REAR VIEW MIRROR. more fuel !!!!



Thanks for Reading

Ma got a little tired of looking at all those 5gal cardboard boxes around the shed where I store and mix the blended stuff. #@$%! Had to agree, by the time you get several hundred gallons worth it's quite a pile!



So... I finally broke down and picked up a couple of those 275 gallon totes. Much neater way to store things! cc



Mark

 

[cj hall]

2001 dodge fass pump

Hello to All

The 2001 is back running I did get some pictures of the tank and dip tube I built last night.



The pump works great we installed the tank heater and heater lines to the fass pump we will be putting gauges on in the next month.



will be getting pictures of the fass unit installed later .



The first pic is the holes we drilled in the tank.

Next is the heater we used.

Then the last three are the dip tube I built.



This will make it possable to run higher % of veg oil in the truck. :-laf



Thanks for reading.



cj hall

 

[Msilbernagel]

cj,

Is that your CNC gear in the background? Nice to have a well-equipped shop!

Does that heater tube use coolant?

Mark

 

[cj hall]

toys toys toys

Hello Mark



No not CNC just read outs on Lathe and on Mill

Yes the heater uses coolant there is an on/off valve for it also it controlled by the temp of the fuel normal open closes at 125 degs. This is mounted on the frame rail of the truck.



The lines run from the Head to the Fuel pump then to the Tank Heater then to the Control Box and then back to the return from the Heater in to the Block.



cj hall

 

[Msilbernagel]

cj,

You're using the Harbor Freight clear water pumps for the blending, right?

Do they hold up Ok with a) WVO and/or b) WVO blended with K1 and RUG?

Any issues using them? How long in service so far?

Thanks!

Mark

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

CJ how will you have enough room under the bed for the pickup assembly with the pickup tube being that high? Do you have a flatbed on the truck? No way that would fit if the truck has a bed.

It was the week from heck for me the last 2 weeks and I haven't gotten started on the 98's fuel system mod yet Got the parts pretty well chased down to get started tomorrow but with temps in the triple digits it'll be fun working on it outside
I'll be taking pics as I go. . .

Vaughn

 

[cj hall]

stuff

Hello to All

Just got back from Yellowstone Park what a nice change. fuel prices in the park are 3. 399 for Diesel did not ck Gas but we came home thru Cooke City the gas price was posted at 3. 709 / 3. 809 /3. 909 no post on diesel.



If any of you get to Yellowstone Park take the Northeast Entrance out and go over the cooke city pass HWY 212 man its so cool. the park is around 7500 feet and the pass is all most 12,000 feet the views are just wild. It takes a little longer to drive but its worth it. the switch backs are steep, came down them in low gear never went over 25 mph and only used the brake 5 times. did get a few looks from the out of staters. Big Dodge with a Big Camper on the pass is not what they thought they would see.



the truck worked just fine and I didn't need an extra fuel had 3/8 of a tank left when I got home 491 miles love that big tank.



Mark

The Harbor Freight clear water pumps are working just fine

the Impeller is Bronze and the Seals are Teflon so no problems with them. running them around 72 hr a week if not more,for a year and 6 months



Vaughn

The pic shows it up about 4 inches it drops down to 2 and then it does fit the only problem is that the bed crossmember is right over head on the 2nd gens so we had to cut it out a little to fit. the 3rd gen trucks the unit is not under the bed crossmember (long box) so this was new to the both of us. we got it to work.



Thanks for reading.



cj hall

 

[cj hall]

hydrometer test on fuel

Helllo to All



Sorry this took so long but I got the Hydrometer today

The cost was 26. 95 for each one . 800 to . 910 and then . 900 to 1. 00

and then 22. 30 each for the cool glass tubes that you put the fuel in.

so for me almost 100. 00 dollars.



I am making 4 batches of fuel this week and I just finished the 3rd one today so I thought I would try out the new toys.



The fuel is mixed hot it flows better thru the filter better this way so I took a sample and tested it the mix that I use is 40 gallons of wvo/4 gallons of kero- jet A / 2 gallons of RUG / 32 oz of diesel kleen / 7 oz of additive (DSE but I make my own)



At 120 degs it had the specific gravity of . 840 then it cooled to the 60 degs and the fuel had the specific gravity of . 904 so its way thicker at 60 degs but at 120 its the same/or really close to diesel fuel (it runs at . 850 to . 865 at 60 degs ). the twin tank users all say they need to heat there fuel up to 160 to 200 degs to do the same thing. so this really makes the veg oil thin to mix the gas and kero.



I will be testing and adding different amounts of additives to see if one can thin the veg oil out to be more like diesel and yet keep the great lube the veg oil has.



Will be posting more on this later.



thanks for reading

cj hall

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Good work on that CJ. I'm close to done installing my inline heater but it would be nice to operate on WVO without having to heat it considerably. I am hoping my heater won't get it too hot, I'm thinking it'll run about 160F once its fully warmed up. At 160 I hope it's not too thin or that the lubricity drops to an unsafe level. Once I get rolling in a couple days I'll go for a long drive, then use an infrared thermometer to check fuel line temps. Eventually I'd like to put on a t-stat of some sort and regulate it around 140F.

Vaughn

 

[cj hall]

temp of fuel

Hello Vaughn



Arctic Fox makes a T-Stat that works off the temp of the fuel stoping the flow of coolent to the heater once it gets to either 80 degs or to 125 degs



the 2001 truck we just put the heaters on has one of these(125 Degs) I will be finding out how its working in a day or so as the truck is heading for AZ to pick up a car. I have a pic of it and will post it later. if it wooks good I will be putting one on my wifes truck



My 04 has a by pass heater on its heater so the fuel in the tank only gets to 80 degs and then bypasses but it still heats the lift pump and the lines going up to the ip pump. the temp running down the road runs at 80 to 95 degs in the tank 85 to 100 degs at the lift pump and then 130 to 150 at the ip pump this is all from last weekend trip if its raining out then the temps are down from there this should be nice when the temps are 100+ outside time will tell on this.



Hope this helps everyone that reads this.



cj hall

 

[cj hall]

2001 fass pump install

hello to all



here are the last pictures i took of the fass unit and of the t-stat



thanks for reading

 

[cj hall]

fuel testing

hello to all



the fuel is running great the 2001 dodge ran to AZ . To pick up a car, it avg 16. 1 mpg on the trip and they ran it at 80 mph . not to bad left with 150 gallons of fuel in the truck bed and the truck tank topped off. so the fuel part of this trip ran them 94 dollars.



zero problems on the trip the temp of the fuel never was an issue as far as we can tell gauges will be going on in a few days. no filter changes needed the fass pump is working great.



the fuel was made in 3 days for the trip so it did not get the filtering I would like to give it so maybe I am filtering it to long.



thanks for reading

cj hall