Ok I believe I have solved the riddle of why!!!!
After talking to Richard , and discussing the various possibilities ,Together we have come up with one possible reason .
First remember this is a ford transmission , an a Cummins transmission , the adaptor is similar to the one I first built. To successfully build a good adaptor, you need to make it where the rear or the donor motor mimics in every way the back or the motor you are trying to imitate . Spacing of bell housing flange , spacing in relation of the crank flange , and the centering ring for the flywheel and the pilot for the center of the converter , including the depth and height of the centering ring / pilot piece . I witnessed a similar , but not quit as drastic failure on a HEMI Top Fuel crank, where we put it in a Big Block Chrysler as a stoker. The pilot on this crank was much larger then the street motor , with out anything to center on, the Flexplate cracked.
You must center the pilot of the converter on the crank , and not the flexplate , or the whole assembly will wobble. This could also take out the front pump and other transmission parts . also costing power in the bind. No telling how fast Richard will go without the bound up transmission , if that proves to be the cause
The moral of this storm is not to bash a product , and if you have a problem you should
take care of it with the guy that built the part , and let him make it better, if his fault , or let him help you fix your problem. Also if you a big muckatie muck with a sanction what ever , don’t get it the mix , stay above the bickering and fighting , don’t start blaming a product that hasn’t shown to be a weak part in the past , until you have real black and white proof it was the cause , and then you let them fix it , unless you want to continue to alienate more people then already
After talking to Richard , and discussing the various possibilities ,Together we have come up with one possible reason .
First remember this is a ford transmission , an a Cummins transmission , the adaptor is similar to the one I first built. To successfully build a good adaptor, you need to make it where the rear or the donor motor mimics in every way the back or the motor you are trying to imitate . Spacing of bell housing flange , spacing in relation of the crank flange , and the centering ring for the flywheel and the pilot for the center of the converter , including the depth and height of the centering ring / pilot piece . I witnessed a similar , but not quit as drastic failure on a HEMI Top Fuel crank, where we put it in a Big Block Chrysler as a stoker. The pilot on this crank was much larger then the street motor , with out anything to center on, the Flexplate cracked.
You must center the pilot of the converter on the crank , and not the flexplate , or the whole assembly will wobble. This could also take out the front pump and other transmission parts . also costing power in the bind. No telling how fast Richard will go without the bound up transmission , if that proves to be the cause
The moral of this storm is not to bash a product , and if you have a problem you should
take care of it with the guy that built the part , and let him make it better, if his fault , or let him help you fix your problem. Also if you a big muckatie muck with a sanction what ever , don’t get it the mix , stay above the bickering and fighting , don’t start blaming a product that hasn’t shown to be a weak part in the past , until you have real black and white proof it was the cause , and then you let them fix it , unless you want to continue to alienate more people then already
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