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boy george i think he's got it....

What have I been telling you all along about them Merrick? If you are thinking about a twin set up, you already have an HX35 right? why not try to rig something up after Munice?



Andrew



P. S. I think you should be happy with 500, serioulsy. Your truck is not really ready to make 500+. You need to go and tighten every little bolt on that thing, to do it. :eek: Wouldn't you agree Don?
 
But Andrew,,



Weren't you going to help with tightening some of the bolts?

Don sounds like he's pretty good at tightening, and replacing headgaskets. Maybe he'll give us some words of wisdom?



My Cummins has 100,000 miles, my VP44 only has about 20,000 Miles.



Andrew,, I'm not really sure which other bolts you could be talking about unless you mean the head bolts.



I need to test my intercooler for leaks, and re-tighten all my boost hose clamps.



My fuel filter housing just got a hairline crack and looses prime right now (Talk about emberassing when you gotta crank for 2-3 seconds)



What else do you think I should do to prepare for 500+ HP



I think your just jealous, LOL



Merrick Cummings Jr
 
Merrick,

If you really want 55o rwhp use some old world tech to help.



when you hop up a camaro, what are the first things you do?



you make it breathe better. . headers, cam, heads give the best gains.



our trucks are the same ... when you put in the fuel you have to be able to stuff the cylinders better.



A new cam should have more lift and at least more intake duration. . this'll wake up the bottom and midrange torque while spooling better and breathing better on the topside.



You can put a bigger turbo on but if you run a big turbo and want to reduce lag you have to loose some of the restriction in front of it. These are not significant until you are pushing the envelope of the original design( 370 was rated. . it'd run 400-450 w/o many changes). Once you get past 450hp efficiency counts.



give it more time to stuff the cylinders and reduce the road blocks between the turbo and the cylinder.



I'm not saying that you won't make it without doing this stuff but it makes sense. A cam is not that expensive. Most machine shops can help with porting and polishing.



I think you'll be suprised about the gains that be had from watching air temps and reducing flow restrictions.



I'd still get a B1 over an H2E. You'll want a smaller turbo and a B1 or H2E as a secondary.



later,

Mark
 
thank you Mark....

Merrick,

Listen to Mark, he knows what it takes. Fuel is only half the mixture, about 1/3 to be more exact. The air that you have is not enough. When you dyno, looking for the big numbers, take off the air cleaner. You really need a port job, but it's too late for that I'm sure. A cam would be great, but WAY too late. Ask EE about those too when you call next time. As far as bolts, yes, I mean ALL the little head bolts, exhaust bolts, intake, turbo, the whole deal. Don, and Mark know a lot more about this then me I think.



Andrew



P. S. Buddy I hope you make it but 500..... think how many have that much man. :eek:
 
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Originally posted by Don M





I dont monitor every dyno. Only the dynos that matter ...

Don~





Could you post a list of Don M approved dynos please?



I want to know where to dyno NEXT time, so I can post my numbers. :eek:
 
Originally posted by Sled Puller







Could you post a list of Don M approved dynos please?



I want to know where to dyno NEXT time, so I can post my numbers. :eek:



part of the problem is that dynos of different brands tell you differing numbers of performance. Some of the Mustangs seem to have traction problems so it is hard to read true HP.

Some Mustangs load the truck, some dont, some do both.

DynoJet nearly always give a different number than the Mustangs.

The enernia dyno is the best way to test the high HP trucks because the tire slippage is not there if the truck is properly strapped down.

I stay on the same brand of dyno and can see what realy is happening. Please go and dyno and see what you get. Im curious becasue I have yet to see any Mitchell prepped trucks dyno numbers. it should be interesting.



Don~
 
Just make up a pipe for the dyno so that you don't have an intercooler..... one less thing to leak. Use water injection... it's cheap and easy... . and fun to tune!



You're only on the thing for... . MAYBE 10 seconds at max.....



Matt - my $. 05 worth... . (inflation renders the $. 02 cliche outdated)
 
I seem to have a habit of BOMBing,, It goes like this,,

Fuel Now, Air Later.



I want fuel now mainly for the track and dyno's, and later when I get a few more pennies again, I'll add a cam, head Job +O-Ring, 2nd turbo, different intercooler, and other little stuff.



But, Like I said, I want 500HP NOW LOL, 1/4 mi. passes and impromtu Highway wars.



Don't worry guys,, the air will come,, :)



All I have to do right now is back off the throttle,,



Thanks,

Merrick Cummings Jr
 
I hear that it makes it grab harder, spool like there is no tomorrow, and raises peak boost 20 PSI without any rise in charge air temp.
 
Cliff,



you gotta stop moving around so much. Now your back at Your Mammas house. When did you leave Ba!!z D33p?



Don~
 
Ok here is another one for someone to chew on, What about the oiling and drain lines for both turbo's, can you split the supply line with a Y and do the same with the drain and run it back into the factory hole or what. I haven't seen any pics of this yet.



Jim
 
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