2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Educate me on electric door locks

[T Peterson]

My drivers side lock sometimes works sometimes not, it is getting power because I can hear it, sometimes if you hold the button a little longer it wil eventually move, sometimes not. My question is what is involved with getting to it. Do you just pry the panels off, anything to watch out for? Last time I did this on another vehicle I'd break plastic clips everytime. TIA

Tom

 

[KYOUNG]

just pry the switch straight up, it snaps into the arm rest. Mine was doing that it seems like the switch was not making good contact under the button!

 

[T Peterson]

I'll check the switch but I don't think thats it because the pass. side works and I can hear the drivers try to work. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[Bill Lins]

I have the same problem with mine.

 

[B.G. Smith]

Not sure about the 01 but mine has three screws in it then just bump it upward and it's loose. bg

 

[dresslered]

Hate to say it but it sounds like it's your power lock/latch connector going out. I had to replace this on my wife's Durango and apparently it is quite common. It takes a bit of finagling to get the old one out as well as the new one in. To make things even more fun, there are four separate latch rods that all get tugged by this thing. Do yourself a favor and color mark the rods to the correct connector or you'll get confused on the reinstall. I believe that you can get a new power connector for about $80.

 

[LRutigliano]

I have had to replace two electric door locks on our '02 Durango. Door would lock manually, but not electrically.



Getting the door panel off takes investigation and patience. Look for phillips screws near the mirror, behind the door handle and sometimes at the bottom of the inner panel. Sometimes the screws are hidden behind plastic buttons or in the Durango's case, the Infinity speaker logo plastic button.



Once the screws are removed, you usually have to pull straight up on the panel and maybe outward at the bottom.



Then you get to deal with the plastic door seal and dumb-dumb. A razor blade works very well for this.



Finally, you will see the door lock and will have to figure out how it comes out. Usually 3 torx screws at the back of the door latch.



Unhook all of the cables. They have plastic releases that take some figuring out...



This is done while barely having enough room for your fingers and hand to work between the steel structures and window glass, etc.



As you progress, you will wish the worst on the door designer...



Its do-able, but its a pain...



Good luck.

 

[T Peterson]

Not the switch....

Looks like I'm going in, sounds like a real pain so for now I'll put up with it until I can save up enough patience. Thanks for all the help. Tom

 

[SRath]

Its not that bad. I installed power windows and locks into my manual doors. Trust me, the power locks were easy compared to the power window regulators. Neither was all that bad.

Have some rustproofing spray/Fluid Film etc handy when you do the job. Give the bottom door seam a heckuva good cleaning and spraying. It won't fix your lock, but it will sure help save the door and make all the hassle seem more worthwhile.

 

[T Peterson]

Thanks for the advice Scott, I have some leftover sound proofing I've been wanting to do the doors with, another benefit for my labor.

 

[SSolderitch]

In the meen time lube the snot out of the latch and work it in about a dozen times. does it work with door open? Worn hinges will allow the door to sag & the latch to set on the pin.

 

[T Peterson]

Interesting, never thought of it that way. Don't remember if it works with the door open. I'll report tomorow after I lube the latch. Do you think if I shot some wd40 right down the lock itself it would do anything, don't know what it looks like in there. Thanks again for the ideas.