2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission EEP Pusher Pump Kit Installed

[DieselMinded]

Had wait a week to get it they was out of stock . I picked it up after I had my truck alined @ about 3PM today



started install @ 4PM... ... ... ((many curse words later))... ... ..... finished @ 9PM it wasn't as easy as I had thought.



First off I had to pick a spot to mount the pump ... . QC... . SB much different than a standard cab long bed witch is what my instructions seemed to be for... all 1/2 page of it... .



There no room by the tank plus you cant flex the Fuel line that close to a connection on down the line theres no place to get to the line the directions suggest about 10" of factory line be removed and you cant get to any fuel line until to get up past the trany about where the fuel lines start to turn and go up in the engine compartment ... the fuel line changes to plastic line with insolation over it ... . you cant go this far because you cant tighten the gear clamps down on plastic... i went about 5" from where the fuel line is plastic and cut it there ... the fuel line is held with reusable clamps so you can just pop it out of them cut it and replace the remaining line back in the holders.



when cutting the line was siphoned so diesel went in my hair and in my eyes and some in my mouth so if Im not making sence thats why...



I made a stop for the cut line that comes from the tank until I was ready for pump connection..... the other line ... the one from the motor will just drain alittle fuel out no big deal... BTW I did remove my fuel cap hoping the siphon would stop and it just sped up.



THERE ARE 2 3/8 inch lines THAT RUN FROM THE TANK TO THE MOTOR IT WAS HARD FOR ME TO TELL WITCH ONE TO TAP ONE OF THE LINES SAYS """HIGH PRESSURE FUEL LINE"""" GUESS WHAT..... THATS NOT THE RIGHT ONE !!!! ITS THE ONE THAT SAYS NOTHING ON IT THE BOTTOM LINE .



After the lines were cut I held the bracket up... ... yes it'll fit but you would have to remove the 4x4 drive shaft to be able to get a drill in to it to make holes for the hardware... even then if you was to mount it up high enough to keep the wires thats on the bottom out of the way you could not drill because the transfer case is in the way... if you have a 90* drill you may be OK... I don't have one so I was bummed



I decided to mount the pump on the out side of the frame rail. I was able to just run the fuel lines between the cab and frame and connect up the pump.



Now for wiring they supply a relay and a LP connector you just unplug the power supply from the LP and plug in the supplied wiring harness and plug the LP power supply back in to the harness theres a spare red wire witch you run to the relay. this set up makes the Carter (pusher pump) only run when the LP is running



follow the wiring diagram and your done I suggest soidering all connections I DID ... I leart a valuable lesson on my comp install ... ALWAYS SOIDER ALL CONNECTIONS !!!!





WARNING IF THE CARTER GOES OUT YOUR DONE THE LP WILL NOT SUCK THREW THE CARTER



there enough fuel line that if the carter goes out you just undo a few gear clamps and use the supplied fuel flex line to reconnect the factory fuel lines should take about 5 mins on road side.



It would be wise to run a type of fuel filter pre carter but I haven decided on one to use yet... Im sure it will prolong its life.



The carter is mounted right under my feet and I cant even tell its there only a little gentle hum of a feal to my toes you cant really hear it run unless the LP kicks in when you turn your key to start ... then it makes the exact same sound the LP does only x10 after the initial blast it quites



I made some rubber grommets to put behind the mounting bracket there not suppled... altho when I was reading threw the owners manual a QUIET KIT is available...



RESULTS... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... very very very



2psi WOT 5x5 before 12psi WOT 5x5 after

10psi idle before 18psi after



Just turn the key on how ever many times it takes for the LP and carter to cycle and it'll fire right up



Going to columbus tomorrow about a 100 mile round trip at various rpms and speeds so it'll get the big test tomorrow



HERES SOME PHOTOS...



whatcha think ??



DM

 

[R-N-R]

Excellent documentation and pics!

 

[DieselMinded]

Leaving now ... If I anit back by 8 pm some body come and get me on I70... ... ... LOL



DM

 

[KYLE4]

Bd power sells same kit I install in less than a hour look into that one seems much simpler and better kit pump mounts under cab on drivers side

 

[DieselMinded]

I made it and it was raining cats and dogs all the way 120 mile rounder



NOT to seem stupid but Im going to tell you all that some how I gained 1. 3MPG ..... go ahead and laugh... but Im serious



I have no idea how I would of gained MPG it dont make much sence to me.



THe WET ride was sort of scary The wires are exposed on the bottom of the pump and if water was to hit POS. and NEG. at the same time I think it would blow the fuse that I dont have a spare for yet... . lucky evidently no water got on the pump its because its mounted right up against a body mount on the left(front)side ... but still Im going to make a little metal guard for the termenals and Ill just screw it on to the bottom of the frame and go under the pump and turn it up till the connections are covered sholdnt take me long to get that done.

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Ill still admit 5x5 is still to much for my truck it'll do it but the rears and trany are not sure what to do... ... ... ... go... . spin... grip... squeal... kick sideways... TC slip... TC lock...



you know what Im saying those of you with a COMP



3x3 is still a maniac setting in my truck I do not punch it I Drive her easy and let off the fuel when its shifing and ease back on to it when its locked ... with no TC slip BTW ... . @ stop signs and what not I cant help when theres a PSD/DMD behind me I have to go 5x5 and just get the original blast of fuel by mashing it and blow smoke all over them... then I lay off with a little laugh from my turbo... ddodoododdd. . dod. d. doo. dod. od. odo...



I love it



soon after that I go back 3x3 and drive like I have sence

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THe kit is easily duplicated if you KNOW HOW TO RELAY and if you get the OEM LP connector from cummins



I paid $165 for my kit IF you build the kit your self



$70 carter

?? RELAY

?? OEM LP CONNECTOR

?? FUEL LINE 2 ft

?? gear clamps

?? Fuel line Connectors for carter

?? fuseable link



Not sure how much all that would be should be close to what you pay for the kit



HERES A COUPON FOR 10% off EEP if you get the kit



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119802&highlight=EEP+coupon



Have to hurry ends in FEB

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I supose after installing my first pusher on a truck I could do it in about an HOUR also ... just like anything else once youve done it for the intial time you can fly threw it the next time and just get faster as you go



It took me about 30 mins just to find the connector on the LP... ... ... thats right now you can laugh... . I wasnt sure where the LP was I thought it was the thingy on the bottom of the fuel filter... NOPE ... once I located it I gained alot of respect for those of you that have changed it "x" amount of times... ... . It looks like Id have to remove my starter just to attack it from below. Lets hope I never have to mess with it.



I need a pre filter for the carter I should be able to mount it on the inside of the frame rail I wonder what type of stand alone filter I should get and how long it would last with diesel.



DM

 

[Bigsaint]

DM, you are not a true 2nd gen owner until you get soaked in diesel changing lift pumps, now you are baptized . When I used to run the Mallory pump I used a Earls screen type pre-filter which worked well. Since the Mallory pumps only lasted about 6 months before they needed a overhaul, I would clean the screens in the Earls filter when I swapped out pumps. Summit Racing and Jegs both sell them, summits item number is EAR-230206ERL. They flow at a rated 4-5 gallons per minute and are rated down to 75 microns. The filter is basically a cylinder with two screens inset, no real filter media. Never had a problem running diesel through it, the screens held up fine. Only downfall for your application is that they have AN male fittings on each end which would require a NPT to AN adapter to use with the rubber fuel line. It states on the Summit site that they are available with hose barb fittings on the end, might want to give them a call. You want the sintered bronze screen, not the paper element.



#ad




Scott

 

[DieselMinded]

Ill check in to the filter thanks

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I made a guard for the pump today here it is... ... ... ...



Ill just bolt it to the bottom of the frame



Like so... ... .



DM

 

[DieselMinded]

Still desiding on a PAINT SCHEME for the guard



I think Im going to paint it black and stensle a mopar logo on the outside of the turn up



The letters would be tough so Im just doing the emblem



I'll post finished photos



DM

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

"WARNING IF THE CARTER GOES OUT YOUR DONE THE LP WILL NOT SUCK THREW THE CARTER"



UNLESS you do something like THIS:



#ad






That external line around the Carter pusher allows normal fuel flow AROUND the pump in case it fails - but an internal valve arrangement in that line and fittings automatically closes when pump flow/pressure is normal.



Details on the construction of that valve are in my readers rigs section under "pusher pump"...

 

[DieselMinded]

Gary - K7GLD

Please Post a photo of It mounted on the truck I think you have a short bed also Im courious where you mounted the pump/bypass assembly I barly found room to mount the pump alone



But,,,, Im sure I have room to tap the factory fuel line closer to the tank for a pre-filter it wont be mounted at the same factory fuel line tap as my carter



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I got a M10 TAP and Q drill bit and some SS 10M HEX HEAD BOLTS to attach the guard thats currenty going through the PIMPED mode on the paint bench Im going with white and Ill put the mopar "M" in gray... . (((JUST WHAT PAINT I HAD)))



LATER

DM

 

[DieselMinded]

Nice And Protected Now

Just put the gaurd on



DM

 

[Bigsaint]

Nice job DM, like the "M".

 

[DieselMinded]

thanks



Im sure the "M" may last a week or too :>



I undercoated the bottom of the guard and the bolts



when you tap up through the frame about 2 1/2 threads is all you can get so I used the RED locktight also



the gaurd is very sturdy and Im sure it can take the impact of road debris that would of when through my pump



DM