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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission EGR Brakes

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Heater Core

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I need brakes. I'm gonna go with EGR pads, calipers and rotors. Is it best to do all 4 at the same time?



Tim W.
 
If you are going to go with a great high performance brake up-grade like the one EGR offers, it would be ashamed to only do half the truck. There is nothing I have ever seen that can bet the EGR brake up-grade. It is undoubtably the best money I have spent for a chassis up-grade. The difference is night and day. Make sure you go with the larger rear wheel cylinders and there top of the line brake shoes, they work great. Also, take your time and do the job right. Clean the rotors well, before you add the disc brake pads and look into getting their brake bleeding kit, if you don't already have one.
 
I have 4 wheel disc brakes. I don't know if the fronts wear a lot faster than the rears.
 
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Warpig said:
I have 4 wheel disc brakes. I don't know if the fronts wear a lot faster than the rears.



The fronts just about always wear faster than the rears (disc or drum rear makes no difference). About the only exception is towing or hauling with too much weight over the rear axle, then the rear brakes take a lot more load.
 
I used EGR brakes on my 98' 12 valve and was very happy with the results. I did all four wheels. Rotors, pads, calipers, lines, in the front and shoes, wheel cylinders, lines, and drums in the rear. But the key with brakes on the older trucks is to keep the rear drums adjusted up. I pull a utility trailer everyday with my construction tools and was able to get about 35,000 miles on my EGR front pads before replacement.
 
Since I can't afford the whole enchilada from EGR, I am doing their calipers & SS lines, brake pads from Performance Friction, and Power Slot rotors from Buybrakes.com http://www.buybrakes.com/powerslot/power-slot-rotors.html



I am installing the brakes next week, so will report impressions back here. This is on my '96 4x4. I did the back brakes not long ago.



Here is another option for rotors from A. R. T. , these guys take theirs to another level with cryo treatment: http://member.newsguy.com/~nutech/frames.html
 
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Vaughn MacKenzie said:
Since I can't afford the whole enchilada from EGR, I am doing their calipers & SS lines, brake pads from Performance Friction, and Power Slot rotors from Buybrakes.com http://www.buybrakes.com/powerslot/power-slot-rotors.html



I am installing the brakes next week, so will report impressions back here. This is on my '96 4x4. I did the back brakes not long ago.



the SS lines might not meet inspection requirements in some state (pa is one of them). I used to run the performance friction and loved them. On the 96 I think an upgrade was to replace the rear wheel cylinders with the 3500 cylinders, they were bigger.
 
A little of subject but has any one done the E. G. R rear disc brakes on a dually? I looked on there web site and they said 2500 only. Just wondering if anyone has done them on a 3500 and how they worked?
 
A little of subject but has any one done the E. G. R rear disc brakes on a dually? I looked on there web site and they said 2500 only. Just wondering if anyone has done them on a 3500 and how they worked?

getting ready to try them on my 1999... anyone else have these already? feedback???
 
the SS lines might not meet inspection requirements in some state (pa is one of them). I used to run the performance friction and loved them. On the 96 I think an upgrade was to replace the rear wheel cylinders with the 3500 cylinders, they were bigger.
EGR's ss lines are DOT approved and based on helicopter application quality. Don't use the slotted and drilled rotors like I did. It amounts to 9% less surface for the calipers to clamp onto. I warped mine within 5,000 miles on the '98. 5. I next went with NAPA's premium solid ones. After that I went with an '07 CTD. This one stops.
 
Used the cross drilled/slotted rotors from NAPA. So far, so good. :D Will most likely do the same to the '99.

Something else I noticed, is the improved stopping power with fresh brake fluid. Also got rid of my brake pull to one side.

Have a hand operated vac pump that pulls the old out, and pulls the new in. Worked GREAT! :D Brake bleeding is now a one man job. :D
 
I have the rear disk upgrade stainless lines and pads. They stop very well. Much better than stock. I just got back from a 1200mile trip where my trailer brakes failed. GCVW was around 14,000# and I had total control even on grades. In hind sight I would have dealt with Toxic deisel. They have almost the same exact kit but the have improved the parking brake cable conection.
 
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