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EGR Disable / DPF Removal - Staying Intact

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I am going to try disable the EGR and DPF with minimal equipment removal so it will be easier to go back to stock if need be. I have read the MADS site about being Code Free (MADS Electronics - Smarty - CaTCHER - DisclaimerS-06A). From the documentation, I believe all I have to do is disconnect the EGR Cooler connection and Throttle Body Butterfly connection... leaving everything else intact. I will replace the exhaust and disconnect all the connections on the transmission, DPF and stock exhaust. Then I will load the ME version into my Smarty Jr. and disable the EGR and DPF in the programming. I believe this all I will have to do to be code free. Can anyone confirm this? I know everyone else removes everything but I don't think that is necessary since all valves should be closed and disabled electronically.



prestinb
 
You need two things. The Smarty ME and a DPF delete pipe. About $900 all said and done. Follow the directions for the ME software and you will be off to the races.

All I did was pull the plunger out of the EGR actuator per the instructions and put it back on. The valve should stay closed and not let flow through with the pressure drop through the valve at the cooler and the plunger valve at the intake manifold. I don't have a plug in the EGR system or anything else removed physically other than the Cat/DPF.
 
Thanks for the reply. I guess my question goes a little more in depth then. Does the plunger have to be removed if the EGR is disabled in the Smarty Jr. ME version? If it is not actuated... then I see no need. If it does actuated because it remains plugged in... then I see the need.



prestinb
 
Good question. The plunger needs to be removed as that servo motor needs to be in the control loop for the engine. The reason, not sure, but if you disconnect the EGR motor you will get a DTC and 40hp derate applied to the engine. So as I said, I pulled the motor off the valve with the 4 small screws, pulled out the plunger and put it back on. From the average joe looking under the hood, all is normal. :)
 
Lil' Dog



Sounds like that is the way to go to make sure the valve stays closed even if the motor is actuated. Thanks again...



prestinb
 
I have the exhaust sitting in my garage ready to go but have to wait to install. While I was at the dealer on Thursday getting my J35 recall implemented, I asked them to do a driveline and suspension inspection since I will be soon getting out of warranty. They came back and said that all my ball joints have play in them and will have to be replaced. I am taking it back in on Monday to have that done. After I get it back, the exhaust will be installed and the Smarty Jr. ME will be loaded. I will keep everyone posted on my findings.



prestinb
 
Today, I finally completed my removal DPF removal / EGR disabling. First impressions are great! I replace the downpipe with a 4" downpipe w/o bungs, and then replaced the DPF with a 4" straight pipe w/o bungs. This ties into my muffler delete pipe and then out the factory tailpipe. The end product is a 4" TBE. I am using a 6. 7 Smarty Jr. ME on level 3 (Performance) to run code free. (I have yet to throw any codes) Driving around with the windows up and A/C on... I barely notice a difference in sound in the cab. Outside is a different story all together The sound is definitely on par with a "big rig" and is really audible under hard acceleration... yet absolutely no droan at anywhere in the RPM range. I am 100% satisfied with my decision and do not have any buyers remorse. Fuel mileage has jumped about 3mpg everywhere... AWESOME!



prestinb
 
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If you have neighbors close by in the winter time they are going to love you. Start your truck, kick the idle up and listen to the eb scream out the exhaust pipe. I don't have close neighbors, but that is the only thing I miss about taking the stock turbo off.
 
What temperature does it have to be in order for the EB to kick in. I have mine wired so it is on by default but it has not turned into the "Jet Sound" yet...



prestinb
 
prestinb - how many miles do you have?



I have 28k on my '08 and am on the fence about the smarty and fixing the exhaust. I know it would be better fixed but like warranty and the idea I can get a free tow & fixed on their dime. On the fence is torture. I'm not in the group that claims there are no problems stock as I use my truck on a regular basis - it's not alternate transportation - or used on occasion.



Have checked out mads website & instuctions for ME, like your idea of keeping the cooler intack, others claim you have to delete it, or backpressure will cause problems - don't know for sure. If I do your setup will just run catcher#3 not looking for big power at this point.



Got new turbo last Sep and was ready to do the Smarty then but didn't, have since got a new CP3 under warranty but also saw the soot that is killing a $14k engine - there was approx 1. 5" solid triangle of soot in the intake horn. Same visit talked to another guy that just drove highway and he had to leave his truck for egr & exhaust cleaning. Then I have since talked to a gal with a deleted truck, she didn't know anything about it, (her husband wasn't around), all she knew was her husband bought the truck new and they hadn't had any problems, just used it as a daily driver.



So how many miles until I need the head removed for cleaning? intake passages are clogging more every day. or do I hold on for turbo #2 under warranty?
 
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If you have neighbors close by in the winter time they are going to love you. Start your truck, kick the idle up and listen to the eb scream out the exhaust pipe. I don't have close neighbors, but that is the only thing I miss about taking the stock turbo off.



How's the HTT working out?
 
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