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EGT probe locate?

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Anyone using a 5" tailpipe?

9/16" wheel studs?

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Is this where it goes? Hardly looks like room for a 7/16" hole, here... Anyway, hold my hand a little on this before I drill my exhaust manifold...



Thanks.



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ummmm... .



wouldntya be better off to remove the turbo first?



to keep metal shavings from going thru the turbo???



Maybe, but I have weighed the benefits vs. problems and decided not to take the challenge. It looks really dicey to me to not have those studs twist off. I can throw an air hose into the tailpipe, and maintain a bit of pressure, grease the bits, magnetize the bits, and then clean out under the hole with a small retrieval magnet. Anything left should go through the turbo fine, I think.



Headed out now to start setting up.



John
 
I dunno - turbo's are expensive, and bolts are cheap. The potential for having bolt issues is lots less than jacking up the turbo. I'd pull it - just nuts and bolts. I also wouldn't send air backwards in the tail pipe - that just sends the shavings towards the cylinders - any open exhaust valves (there's always at least one) and in go the shavings - bad for piston rings. Pull the turbo. My 2 penny's...

- M2
 
No Air in the tailpipe.

I agree with the no air in the tailpipe, I would not want to back flow iron into a cylinder. One of my sets of instructions said to do it your way. "Use lots of lube on the drill bit and tap to get as much as possible to stick to the tool. Magnet out what you can, and let the rest poof out the exhaust. The turbo bearings really aren't in the exhaust flow, they are in the oil flow. The bits should not be big enough to nick a turbo vane. "



That being said, I removed my turbo, bought a 16 cm housing, and port matched the exhaust manifold to the snail at the same time as I installed my pyro probe. I am a bit anal about the details and felt uncomfortable about sending metal through the turbo no matter how "safe" it was. Never heard of any problems doing it your way, but I will admit I am quite paranoid. ;)

Ken
 
I've drilled several without removing the turbo. No biggie. Drill in steps and don't drill thru until that final size. Then grease the drill and most of the chips will stick. Then vacuum them out. Grease the tap too, then vac out and finish by fishing around with a magnet.

Any chips remaining will be small anyway and go right thru within milliseconds after start up.
 
If you start it after you drill the hole, anything you missed with grease/magnet will fly right out of the hole you just drilled. Start it and let it run for a couple seconds.
 
I'll chime in for drill/tap with grease no tear down. Fish out anything with a magnet and vacuum.



IMO, there's more risk of problems going without a probe than using this install method.
 
Well, it's done. I did use the air. Covered the Turbo inlet with duct tape. When the drill broke through, I had a nice flow of air out the hole (you could hear it), and it was blowing chips out well. I don't think anything went into the manifold. The rare earth magnets on the drill bits also worked great. Before breakthrough, every chip was stuck to the bit, without any grease. Using air flush and magnetic bits, I doubt you would need grease, except I needed a lubricant that wouldn't wash chips into the manifold. The after magnet-sweep picked up very little from inside the manifold.

Blowing chips into the cyl? Maybe, but I don't think I had enough airflow, given the size of the passages. I may be proven wrong.

The gauge works. Finally. Anyone in Eagle River/Chugach wanna show me the fine points of "fueling"?

Thanks,
John
 
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