Elec Fuel Pump on a 1st Gen ???

[cojhl2]

Is it ok to install and run an elect fuel pump on a 1st gen.



What I am thinking of is to add between the tank and the mech pump the Vulcan Transfer pump fom Genos(VulanReloKit) page 14 in newest catalog.



Am I asking for a problem here??



Thank you in advance for the answers.

 

[bgilbert]

It's best to bypass the mechanical lift pump completely or do what some have been doing, by routing the electric pump to dirty side of the fuel filter housing by way of a tapped banjo bolt.



The mechanical pump is only gonna open/close/pump so fast, so by adding pressure/volume to the inlet ain't doing no good to the injection pump, just supplying p/v to the stock lift pump.

 

[cojhl2]

It's best to bypass the mechanical lift pump completely or do what some have been doing, by routing the electric pump to dirty side of the fuel filter housing by way of a tapped banjo bolt.



The mechanical pump is only gonna open/close/pump so fast, so by adding pressure/volume to the inlet ain't doing no good to the injection pump, just supplying p/v to the stock lift pump.

I was hoping I could just pushthrough the mechanical pump. Dontcha think the valves would let that.



Otherwise I'm afraid I would have to remove it so it doesn't beat itself to death with no fuel in it.



Maybe I should just can the whole idea,, waddya think bg



John

 

[Jgolden]

Another question is if the stock diaphram pump can pull through the electric pump if it( the electric) fails. Seems like the eletric would be enough if properly rated for flow volume. Plate off the diaphram and keep it for a spare.

Check my sig. My fuel comes from way back so it is standard to add an electric pump to supply fuel to the stock pump. Just a walbro pump put in line at the tank. One of the problems it eliminates is the rubber hose lines closing under suction from the stock pump.



Not sure that is a problem with the Dodge.

 

[JLEONARD]

Jgolden, that's the way I would do it... . ditch the mech and go strictly electric.

Don't know if the mech pump can pull thru the elec... in my boat I plumbed a bypass. If I need the electric I need to open one valve and it will push thru the mech pump.

That's not on a Cummins but the same type of mech diaphram pump.

 

[cojhl2]

Thanks Gentlemen. . I've enough info to chew on. I think what based on what you have all said I'll eliminate the mech, take it off the engine and go complete electric.



This means I must come up with the elec circuits to:

1)Run at the beginning so the engine will start.

2)Then continue to run only when the engine is running.



Back in the 50's i drove a F8 gas Ford. It had two electric pumps hooked in parallel that only ran while there was oil pressure. To start it you had an override switch to hold on while cranking the engine.



This problem is getting complicated. I,m only doing this because of an extra tank way back under the pickup.



Thank you for the answers everyone. .

 

[DonTX]

Another thing to consider, is fuel pressure. Cummins says about my first gen, that there is a MAXIMUM pressure for the VE, not to be exceeded. Not sure what problems it may cause if any. .

 

[sdstriper]

There is reference to min. /max. fuel pressure, you don't want to starve the VE as it is lubricated with the fuel and the problem with too much pressure is seal failure and fuel in the crankcase oil. Volume in liters/min. is referenced also. The 1989 spec is 191. 5 liters/min. @ 1800 rpm.

 

[WJones]

put a relay on the fuel solenoid, you probably always want it running when the solenoid is energized. might want to look at a carter electric like this. However I don't think the stock lift pump would have any problem drawing fuel from a tank anywhere on the truck as long as there's no air in the lines and there's always the piston lift pump.

 

[Jgolden]

There is reference to min. /max. fuel pressure, you don't want to starve the VE as it is lubricated with the fuel and the problem with too much pressure is seal failure and fuel in the crankcase oil. Volume in liters/min. is referenced also. The 1989 spec is 191. 5 liters/min. @ 1800 rpm.

Can an old guy ask for a conversion to gal? Or lbs of pressure? Or gigabytes? I guess I could start filling empty Scotch containers with water then pouring them into old milk bottles .

I know there's three tea spoons in each tablespoon... .

Thanks.

 

[dpuckett]

3. 78liters/ gallon



I would be more concerned with the electical fuel pump giong out than the lift pump being in adequate. I prefer mechanical stuff- it seems to give signs of slowing down, vs a suden failure. How long is your rig? If it is real long (LB crew or the like), you can always move up a size on your fuel supply hose to ensure adequate volume and relieve suction on your pump.



I plan to go to a piston lift pump someday. Like when I get back from school this fall... ... If I need more than a piston LP can provide, I have other fish to fry.



Daniel

 

[Jgolden]

Daniel: Thanks for the conversion, when the sun gets high enough to power my old solar caculator I'm set.

 

[bgilbert]

My electric pump get's it's switched on/run power from the start/run/shutdown solenoid at the injection pump. I would like to wire a on/off switch in between, this way I could turn the ignition key to the on position and not have the electric pump run if not needed etc. I just never got around to doing it at the time.



You'll want a lift pump that will not exceed 15-20psi inlet at the VE. One that was designed for use with a carbureted (sp) engine. I have some pics of my setup in my gallery.

 

[JLEONARD]

There are many electric pumps that will fit the bill (no pun inteneded).

I am familiar with Walbro pumps as I put one in my boat.

I used a Walbro model 6802 which 7 psi at 43 gal/hr and has a lifer expectance of 18,000 hours. You can do the math and predict the mileage.

Walbro also has model 6805 rated at 4 psi and 33 gal/hr. same duty life.

Both were listed at $90.

To put a perspective on fuel use... a 450 hp engine can use a max of 24 gal/hr. A 220 hp engine about 8. (from Cummins marine specs) So either of these pumps would work.

Those are just two and these are rated for marine service, which makes them a little tougher than one rated for automotive use.

And they should be plumbed to pull thru the filter so the pump sees clean fuel (or at least thru a course filter).

Jay

 

[Jgolden]

Jay, I agree on the electric pulling through a filter. My Walbro has a pretty fine screen under the plate that forms the bottom of the pump. Doubt it stops much, but it was restricted by "gunk" when I got around to checking it. By then it was 15 years old and had sat much of that time.

Cleaning it was one of my first "power mods".

A more agressive filter would be a good add on.

 

[JLEONARD]

191. 5 liters/min. @ 1800 rpm

This can't be correct. That converts to roughly 50 gal/minute . . no way.

Perhaps a misplaced decimal?

 

[Headshot zod]

After installing the Walbro (after JayLo's suggestion), it completely solved my fuel problem (air leak probably). Now (after 16 months of praying for death) I don't have to park my truck "nose down" on hills. I only use it for starting and then shut it off. But I might as well get rid of the mechanical pump.

 

[sdstriper]

191. 5 liters/min. @ 1800 rpm

This can't be correct. That converts to roughly 50 gal/minute . . no way.

Perhaps a misplaced decimal?

Could be, another copy/paste from QuickServe...