2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Electrical Drain with switch off

[Fuzz]

I have searched and read much on this but still can't seem to isolate my problem:

I have 2 new Optima red tops. . Charged them up and let sit overnite. .

Both batteries unhooked from truck.

Both batteries about the same Volts 12. 9 and 12. 8

So figure batteries OK.

I can take the cables off and get a 12v trouble lite to on either battery,ie

from the neg post to neg cable with pos cable on battery.

I have pulled each and every fuse and it don't make any difference,except for the 50A battery fuse in the PDC. The light flickers,unless I activate a switch with heavy draw,like the electric window switch. This is with the neg cable off and the light in series with it and battery. If I activate the window switch it gets brighter and steady,I think that's normal.

Before I blew a fuse on the meter I was getting about . 30 MA draw...

any ideas. Please.

 

[Joe G.]

I had a problem like that on our Chrysler LHS. You might check to see if the draw times out after a while and is lower. There is a certain amount of ignition off draw to support things like remote door lock gadgets. It turned out to be a tired battery in our car. Your service manual should should have a valve for IOD.



You need to fill in your signature so we know something about your truck when you post a question.

 

[Fuzz]

Thanks Joe,I think I have pretty much ruled the batteries out as the culprit.

You speak of a valve for IOD. . There is a fuse labeled IOD. I pulled it and it made no difference.

I used a different meter and get 1. 4A draw. . Way too much.

Will keep looking.

I thought I put the sig on. . using the PDA format I guess I didn't.



2000 QC 3500,6 spd,gauges,EZ,4"exhaust,275 injectors,BHAF

xtra BU lites,Tow pkg

 

[Joe G.]

Did you hook up your meter and wait to see if the draw times out? It takes a few minutes for that to happen. I had over an amp draw on the LHS and was really chasing my tail trying to find it. I rigged a fuse on the postive test lead to protect the meter. Blew it a few times. Then while I was trying to figure out something else to test and left my meter hooked up I saw the IOD current drop. Just opening the door will kick it back up again. Or using the remote unlock. I don't remember how long it took for the current to drop on the LHS.

 

[B.G. Smith]

Try disconnecting the main lead on the alternator, could be a bad diode. Also try pulling the relays in the PDC one at a time, might isolate it that way. bg

 

[Fuzz]

Pulled all fuses

I did pull all the the fuses (one at a time) in both the PDC and the fuse box in the cab. Had to go to town and left it sit,batteries unhooked,for about 4hrs.

Same thing still showing . 14 amp draw. .

thanks again

 

[Bob Wagner]

is your truck an early build 2000? there is a tsb out for 1999 trucks in regards to the seat belt timer control module.



the module goes bad and drains the batteries

 

[Fuzz]

I'm going out to remove the alternator wire and see if that helps.

Bob,it is an early build. I picked it up the last of Dec,1999. I will try to find the TSB you mentioned.

 

[Fuzz]

Alternator eliminated

I removd the wire to the alternator. . no help. Still leaking 1. 4A.

I can't seem to find the TSB mentioned. . I looked under both '99 and 2000.

I looked under electrical. . no?

Appreciate the help.

I guess after I find the TSB and try to eliminate that,I will start looking at all the wires I added,and disconnect one by one.

I said I pulled all the fuses in the PDC,I did,but also the relays. . Keep thinking I might be missing something obvious. . you know,getting old and all.

 

[AKAMAC]

What have you done to existing harness? Any aux taps for trailer or lighting?

Mike

 

[WestTN]

If one battery is . 9 volts less than the other and both were charged, you have a bad battery.

 

[Fuzz]

Yup,I have added a painless fuse block,backup lights,lighted running boards,and a trailer converter to flash the dually fender clearance lights with the turn signals.

I will start unhooking that stuff one at a time tomorrow ,it could sure be in some of that additional wiring.

The batteries were both charged,but,the lower voltage one is the one I was fooling with and using the trouble light on. . They have both been unhooked all last nite and all day today,and will be tonight. They are still reading the same. I guess to really get an accurate test I need to charge them both again up to the same level and let 'em sit.

Trouble is when I unhook something I have to check it with the light or ammeter which would use a little juice,wouldn't it.

thanks again folks,

I appreciate all suggestions. . tomorrow I will start unhooking some of the goodies I installed.

What you think?Should I do a more accurate test on the batteries. Bought them last April,Optima red tops.

 

[Fuzz]

I decided this morning to try and do something exact<g>.

I charged up both batteries,unhooked both batteries and will let them sit to see if their is any difference. Thanks WestTN,got me to thinking.

Question:If I unhook both batteries,check each one individually for draw and get the same draw on either battery(one at a time) wouldn't this indicate the voltage/amp draw is somewhere other than the batteries?

I haven't started isolating the crap I put on yet. Wanted to do the batteries. Yesterday I did unhook the Painless fuse block and it didn't help,that powers the aux b/u lites and lights on running board. Will "unhook" the convertor next.

Easier putting it all on than trying to remember what I did ,so I can take it off. .

Thanks again

Fuzz

 

[Stevem]

Well it sounds as thought you have checked everything possible but I once chased a problem like this. Finally found the culprit when I went out after dark to do some checking and when I opened the hood I found the problem immediately-the underhood light. Just a thought.

 

[CSnyder]

I had a problem like that once also but after many MANY days of trying to chase it I took it to a garage and paid them almost 400 to find out when I added my own stereo wiring to the back seat area I had screwed a threshold pad screw down into the power wire for my stereo amp. With all the extras you have I can only imagine what you may have screwed thru. Hope this helps, Chris

 

[Fuzz]

Thanks Chris,kinda bittersweet,but I suspect it is something I put on. Although all this stuff was added when the pickup was new or near new,and now it is just now showing up. I don't need it right now so I am kinda puttin along with it.

Thanks ,

\Fuzz

 

[dalton4]

The 12 volt reading battery in your first post should be checked. 12. 06 volts is a 25% charge and 11. 89 is discharged. If my math is correct, 12 volts is about a 16% charge.

 

[Fuzz]

TSB for Seat belt timer??

I cannot find the aforementioned TSB,re seat belt timer. Anybody able to point me to it?



Dalton 4. . after rereading my first post,I see what your saying. I goofed,I edited the post.



I have disconnected,the running board lites,taken off the convertor to flash the dually fender lights,disconnected the painless fuse block and I still get

. 14 A draw with switch off.

Darn,will keep fooling with it tomorrow. .

Sure appreciate the suggestions. Thanks

Fuzz

 

[DennyDay]

Details Please

Fuzz - - - Details on the adaptor for making the marker lights flash with the turnsignals please



Thanks, Denny

 

[Fuzz]

Denny,

Here is the URL that I found it on. It's the Ford diesel site. I bought a cheaper converter

from Camping world and it didn't work as well ie,if the lights were turned on from the headlight switch,no turn selected,and hit the brakes the lights would go out. This is just the dually fender lites,that were added to the converter. I think I will go with the higher priced converter as described in the article. (when I get my current problem solved)

Fuzz