Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Elimanating Intake heater grid, what about codes?

[grimesja]

I must be looking in the wrong places for this answer. If I elimanate the heater grid by replacing it with a custome spacer. How do I prevent the ECM from throwing the intake heater codes?

 

[SSolderitch]

did you take out your relays? or just the heaters?

 

[JCyrbok]

did you take out your relays? or just the heaters?

Relays it what I though too.



J-

 

[grimesja]

I have disconnected the relays and I get the heater relay code.

 

[JCyrbok]

I have disconnected the relays and I get the heater relay code.

does the code do anything to the performance (some how derate the engine) when it is present? Or do you just not like the code present/CEL lit?



J-

 

[BDaugherty]

You should be able to leave the relays plugged in and just disconnect the grids to prevent codes. I believe that the ECM just looks for the resistance of the relay's coil to know if it's good or not.

 

[JExum]

I also deleted my heater grid and use my smarty to clear the code. The code for it is grid failure to draw current but it seems if you just turn the key on and crank without a pause i don't get the code very often. But i live here in texas where the coldest i'v had to start it was 20 degrees idles alittle ruff for 10-20 seconds and smoothes out. peformance improvment was minimal but not bad for 60 dollars.

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

All the computer "sees", is the relay coils - and there's really no reason to remove or disconnect them, since their current draw is so low. I've removed my grid heaters, left the relays - and no codes on my '02.



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[EForbes]

wow, what is the benifit of removing the grid heater, and where do you get the DTT spacer?
Thanks

 

[Dieselnut59]

I have disabled the grid heaters on all my and my company's Cummins engines (see sig) by simply removing the two fusible link wires at the battery (driver side). No codes on the '03 and no computer on the others... This was the first "mod" performed on all the trucks when purchased and have had no problems.
With this method, the relay still cycles (low side), but there is now power to the "high side".

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

wow, what is the benifit of removing the grid heater, and where do you get the DTT spacer?

Thanks

Don't want or need the heaters - OR the airflow restriction of them and the heater housing:



#ad




- and the DTT spacer came from the same place as the intake, (gasp!) DTT! :-laf:-laf



.

 

[grimesja]

The airflow is definetly better but I'm still getting the 380 code. I'll try some of the above suggestions this week. I am getting a miss crusing at about 16-1800 rpm. The only code which I have is the 380.

 

[EForbes]

still trying to locate the spacer in question, if someone has a link to the dtt spacer, it would be greatly appreciated.
Thx

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

still trying to locate the spacer in question, if someone has a link to the dtt spacer, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thx

Good 'ol Google search:



DTT Performance Diesel Transmission and Power Accessories



Untitled Document

 

[grimesja]

One note the DTT spacer is does not work very well with some of the other air horns, mainly because it is a round circle at the top and some of the air horns are cut rectangler like the OEM air horn. We ended up maching our own.

 

[Beast2B]

I used the Winspeed spacer. works with stock intake or other aftermarket intakes that keep the shape of the stock intake...

leftcoastdiesel.com - WINspeed Heater Grid Delete Test

 

[JayStraight]

I got mine from the Cummins dealer this past fall and with the gaskets it only cost me about $40!! I can't remember the part number but it should come up in the search... .

 

[grimesja]

Today, I finally fixed the code issue 0380 & 0382 intake heater/glowplugs. I removed the power wires from the battery and the power wires to the heater. I had to keep the relays on the truck with the 12v jumpers in place. I tried various senarios but this combination finally fixed it. Thanks everyone.

 

[jshumate]

Grid Heater Delete

I have a couple of questions about replacing the grid heater with a spacer block. Has anyone encountered any clearance problems with the #1 injector line? Some have said that it rubs. Also, how do you avoid codes show up after removing the wires from the solenoid? I've heard of people putting a resistor across the solenoid terminals, leaving one of the wires connected, etc.

Thanks for any help.