Working on an issue with a 99 3/4 4x4 auto with 158k. After cruising at a constant speed for 20 to x miles the power goes away and truck starts slowing. Has happend anywhere between 40 and 80 mph. If the throttle is worked it will sometimes pich up and run again for ???? miles/time. If the throttle is held and the speed drops under 50 mph it will pick back up and run right, sometimes, for ???? miles/time. Some days it will run with no problems. Take it to a dealer and it won't miss a beat. Tach does not drop to zero but slowly drops with rpm. The truck will not miss a beat accelerating or pulling unless the speed is held constant for a time and even then it is never a consistent amount nor any particular event to trigger it. Truck came out of OK where dealer claims they have problems with heat and humidity causing issues.
Injection pump has been replaced previously, no more info. No info on lift pump replacement or fuel pressure. Computer is showing no codes. Notation on dealer work order indicates APPS is out of spec. No info on when, where or how reading was obtained.
Following is what we are doing:
1. Pull negative battery cables, leave key on to discharge capacitors and clear computer.
2. Clean, grease, and reset all body and engine grounds, ECM & PCM & APPS & crank sensor connections. Load test batteries.
3. Reset APPS.
Ok, what have I missed and what else could be the problem. If the above doesn't cure it, it is on to checking fuel pressure and whatever else could be wrong. Replacing the APPS is an option but for $400 I would rather exhaust all other possibilities first.
Is there a quick cheap way to load the pump like a fueling box to see if it could be the problem? It really acts like the pump is TU but it will not throw a code.
Observations? Ideas? Experiences?
Injection pump has been replaced previously, no more info. No info on lift pump replacement or fuel pressure. Computer is showing no codes. Notation on dealer work order indicates APPS is out of spec. No info on when, where or how reading was obtained.
Following is what we are doing:
1. Pull negative battery cables, leave key on to discharge capacitors and clear computer.
2. Clean, grease, and reset all body and engine grounds, ECM & PCM & APPS & crank sensor connections. Load test batteries.
3. Reset APPS.
Ok, what have I missed and what else could be the problem. If the above doesn't cure it, it is on to checking fuel pressure and whatever else could be wrong. Replacing the APPS is an option but for $400 I would rather exhaust all other possibilities first.
Is there a quick cheap way to load the pump like a fueling box to see if it could be the problem? It really acts like the pump is TU but it will not throw a code.
Observations? Ideas? Experiences?