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Engine Driven Compressor

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disc brake DANA 80

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Has anyone ever tried to install the Cummons engine driven air compressor. I haven't had a chance to look at one, but I would assume that to install it I would have to replace the front cover and probably install a few brackets. Does/will it clear the hood? I'd like to install a few tanks, for using air tools and my air horn. :D
 
Josh

The Cummins set up mounts where our P/S and vacuum pumps mount. You have to adapt a different P/S pump to the back of the compressor. Mount a remote reservoir and some type of vacuum pump.

Kilby's On-Board Air system looks like the most practical. If you buy everything from him you still would be about half of the cost just the compressor from Cummins.
 
I may be wrong on this, but I don't beilive they make an onboard air system for the 12-valv trucks.



Mike
 
compressors

Where I work we have 2 Ford F-700 box trucks with the Cummins B 12 valve and they do have the compressor in place of the power steering pump. Th Steering pump is attached on the backside of the compressor with a remote resvoir. Top speed 68:D
 
From what I've read, even if you do find a compressor and PS pump, the motor mount is in the way. I don't think it's going to work.
 
seems

It seems to me that Evan Beck was going to try something like that. Do a search on his name and maybe you will find it that way. :p
 
I looked at a way to do on board air with a engine driven compressor, 12v compressor, and a 2200 watt power inverter and a 2 1/2 hp portable electric compressor.



I want air to run a US Gear exhaust brake, air horns, check tire pressures on truck and RV, general cleaning.



I went with the 2200watt inverter and a Porter Cable 12 amp oil compressor from Home Depot. I get 150psi, storage tanks, and regulators, factory built and can run the compressor with "shore power", can run the inverter for other things when "away from shore power" if I don't need air for that job but need 120 volt power. Just for the US Gear brake a full charge should easily run 250 cycles which is probably more than a month of use (with no leaks). Seemed to provide most flexability.



I chose the 2200watt because:

Compressor uses 12 amp @120volts = 1440 watts full load. You do not want to go over 80% of inverter power rating at full load. 2200 * 80% = 1760 for inverter max sustained load. You have 320 watt pad for safety.



There is a thread about adding a 10CFM York compressor where the alternator is. The total cost with all tanks valves etc was $850 for just air. My Porter Cable was $270, inverter $305, special factory made fused cables for inverter $100 = $675 with more flexability.



Depends on how much CFM you need at what pressure.



Just an idea,



Bob Weis
 
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