Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Engine Mod Sequence

[McLaughlin]

Until recently, I've focused on fixing the suspension on my truck. Now that I have that pretty well taken care of, I'm looking at performance modifications. I'm not looking for huge HP, something in the 320-370 range. Currently my truck engine is stock but I've put on a new exhaust manifold, 4 in exhaust, and intake filter. My understanding is that new injectors, delivery valves, and fuel plate are the three primary things I can change that will increase/decrease the HP and torque. My question is do I need to do them all at once or can I do them independently and still see performance changes and when I make the improvements will I have problems because of injector pump limitations ?



For the injector replacement, I'm considering either 215 or stage 2 injectors. From what I understand the 215's should actually improve my HP and may produce better fuel economy while the stage 2's will produce about 20 more HP (then the 215's) but not affect fuel economy from stock. My question here is 20 HP really noticeable?



A local shop suggested putting in new delivery valves first. They felt that was the key to more power. Another shop stated there is some disagreement that delivery valves will improve horsepower but that they had changed the delivery valves and noticed improved an improvement in performance. Does anyone have any thought regarding the effect of delivery valves?



I hadn't considered a fuel plate but looking at the various kits it seems that I may limit the value of the injector changes if I don't. Can anyone speak to that?



Basically, I'm just trying to determine the best sequence of improvements given my limited budget. I know that was a lot of questions but appreciate any comments.

 

[Johnstra]

I haven't done much in the way of perf mods on my truck, but from what I've read and heard, the fueling plate is probably going to give you the most bang for your buck. A #4 will get your 97 auto pretty close to your target range, but you will need to upgrade your transmission to take that extra power, and you'll need a larger turbo housing (14 or 16 cm2) to keep the EGTs down. My impression is delivery valves don't really buy you that much.



Good luck and have fun.



-john

 

[burnin oil]

plate, injectors, then DV. The delivery valves will add heat. A 97 already decent size DVs.

 

[fortunate1]

My 2 cents: plate (grind yourself a "100", buy one, or get another #); the 215's will give you a boost in power and milage (though not as much difference in your '97 as in my '95). You can get by without the DV's with your proposed setup. And it's good that you've already beefed up the transmission with DTT stuff. But don't leave out the GSK to prevent fuel cutoff at around 2500-2700 rpm. I got 4000 rpm ones, even though I've never been much past 3000. Rationale: I can go past 3000 later if I want to. 60# valve springs are a must with the 4000 GSK if you rev past about 3400 rpm.

 

[McLaughlin]

Thanks to all for the inputs. After I put on an exhaust brake, looks like I'm going with a fuel plate then injectors and maybe DVs last. How are plate numbers related to fuel flow; does a lower number flow less then a higher number or in is it reverse?



Fortunate1: Thanks, what is a "100"? I had a 3K GSK installed when I did the transmission.

 

[burnin oil]

A 100 plate is a custom plate. It is basically a 10 plate with the top end made flat so there is no defueling on the top end. Good hot rod plate but not the best for towing as temps can get real hot real quick! I have a 10 plate and love it. If you change to a 4GSK you need 60lb springs on intake and exhaust. Exhaust only is for the exhaust brake.