Engine oil for my Cummins

[buzzinghalfdozen24]

I prefer to run 5w-40 rotella. Many reasons. But I switched right in the middle of a big cold spell rwo years ago from 15-40. The difference in cranking speed was huge. Literally sounded like it was turning over twice as fast during starting. I've never gelled, I always use stanadyne additive, and winter additive for winter temps. And I've never had a problem with starting. But it just gives me comfort and reassurance to know I have the best oil for winter. And I won't switch oils mid year, so I keep running T6 year round.

Also, I have many toys, trucks, mowers, street bikes, dirt bikes, and cars. T6 is milti compatible and it is JASO MA wet clutch rated. I will add, I noticed a large difference switching over to this oil in both my motorcycles. So, now, I use this one oil for everything. Always have oil on hand. I don't have to go buy Deere oil for the tractors, Amsoil for the bikes....etc. I just keep plenty of Rotella T6 on hand. Makes it simple. I don't thing my wife's car can pump 40w oil, or I'd run it in that too.

Just my 2 cents.

 

[BillDriscoll]

Am I the only guy in the United Stated running Delo 15w-40? lol 150K and still going strong. heading to Wally World for 3 gallons in a few minutes
I did see Orileys was giving Moble1 Devlac 15W40 away for 12.99 yesterday
Rotella 15w40 seem to be the gear case oil for a lot of 2stroke dirtbikes btw..... surprising but I use Belray cause they have a cooler decal!

 

[w6pea]

Am I the only guy in the United Stated running Delo 15w-40? lol 150K and still going strong. heading to Wally World for 3 gallons in a few minutes
I did see Orileys was giving Moble1 Devlac 15W40 away for 12.99 yesterday
Rotella 15w40 seem to be the gear case oil for a lot of 2stroke dirtbikes btw..... surprising but I use Belray cause they have a cooler decal!

I am of two minds on this one.
I ordered a 201602500 Laramie 4x2 CC/LB IL-6 CTD I have always used Chevron Delo oil in the Caterpillar and Cummings motors that I have driven. I see that the new truck I ordered Diesel Supplement Manual recommends Mopar 15/40w or Shell Rotella or Shell Rimula 15/40W Oil. I have been told they come from the factory with Pennzoil in them. I have read that the parent company of Pennzoil is Royal Dutch Shell or Shell Oil Co. So maybe they aren't as bad as people say they are.


Pennzoil
Company · pennzoil.com

Pennzoil is an American oil company founded in Los Angeles, California in 1913. In 1955, it was acquired by Oil City, Pennsylvania company South Penn Oil, a former branch of Standard Oil. Wikipedia



Headquarters: Houston, TX


Founded: Oil City, PA


Parent organization: Royal Dutch Shell, Shell Oil Company

 

[HPSimpson]

My understanding is the Cummins Factory fill is " Valvoline Premium Blue 5W40 Synthetic" I have no idea where you received your information, I wouldn't even consider using Pennzoil in any of my trucks period.

 

[Wayne M.]

My understanding is the Cummins Factory fill is " Valvoline Premium Blue 5W40 Synthetic" I have no idea where you received your information, I wouldn't even consider using Pennzoil in any of my trucks period.

What's the issue with pennzoil? (Slightly OT) The MS spec for the current Hemis only allow Pennz platinum or Valvoline syn torq oils.

In the Cummins, I run whatever Dino 15/40 is on sale. That would include delo or rotella or delvac etc, but not store brand.

 

[NIsaacs]

In the Cummins, I run whatever Dino 15/40 is on sale. That would include delo or rotella or delvac etc, but not store brand.

I do the same thing, including store brands, such as Napa or CARQUEST made by Valvoline.

Nick

 

[w6pea]

My understanding is the Cummins Factory fill is " Valvoline Premium Blue 5W40 Synthetic" I have no idea where you received your information, I wouldn't even consider using Pennzoil in any of my trucks period.

I was told by the parts department that they recommend Pennzoil or Mopar Oil. Or Shell Rotella Oil 15/40w
Google Pennzoil and see what it comes up with. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pennzoil

When I was a kid my Uncle had a Richfield Gas Station, before they became ARCO or BP. I believe they were headquartered in Los Angeles CA https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Richfield_Oil_Corporation.

He always said do not Use Pennzoil ! I never did because what Uncle Jesse said about Automobile engines and repair was Gospel ! I always used Chevron Delo 400 Oil in any Caterpillar or Cummins or Navistar Diesel Engine. In my Ford P/U I used Motorcraft Synthetic Blend Oil from day one.

 

[AnOldBiker]

I called Cummins a few years back and they said Valvoline Premium Blue Synthetic was what every motor has when leaving the factory. But I'm old and can't remember if it was the 5w-40 or the 15w-40. Like I said, I use the 5w-40 Rotella T6 and have no issues with it. But it is still my belief, if you have a quality oil from a major manufacture that meets the specs required by your engine manufacture, you should have no problems.

And w6pea, Yes, Richfield was headquartered in Los Angeles, I've been in the building and it was beautiful, the architectural designs was intense. They were bought out by Atlantic and renamed ARCO, (the Atlantic Richfield Company) later to be bought out by bp and named ARCO ... (a subsiderity of bp). I hate to say this ... for I am an ARCO heritage employee that ended up being a bp retiree. I would have rather have been an ARCO retiree (an American Based Company).

In the old days, Pennzoil was considered a high paraffin based oil and when you pulled the valve covers off the engine in say, 80k to rebuild it as they did then, there was an extremely thick layer of thick black gunk needed to be cleaned off the head. Didn't do much good for the bearings and such. But from I understand, they have changed years ago to less paraffin based. There are always parrifins in oils, just how much is what is critical. I'm with the understanding their new top of the line oils for cars is actually made out of natural gas instead of crude.

 

[AnOldBiker]

I was making coffee for the wife and I and in general bull, told her of this thread. She reminded me of a test I did when deciding to stay with Dino or convert to Synthetic. I took two pieces of metal, made trays with sides and set them both next to each other at the same angle. I don't remember, but 3 ot 5 degrees downslope. I had catch cans at the bottom and poured a sample of full Synthetic in one and full Dino in the other. With fishing weights of 2 oz each, I placed them in the trays when the oil stopped dripping and waited to see which would reach the bottom first. Since I had only 7 weights, I did it 3 times to compare, not adding oil to see what happens when the layer is thinner over use. The full Synthetic side finished first each try. A basic and simple test that helped me decide. (a non scientific experiment.)

But if I may, I don't believe in blended oils. If a person is spending their money for something that is to protect their engines, I believe in either sit or get off the pot. Full Dino or full Synthetic. With a blend, how much or what is the % of the blend ? Are you paying for 50/50 of each ? Or 90% dino / 10% synthetic ? Not saying it isn't a quality oil and would not work for a longer life engine, but questioning the need for a 'blend' ?
Am I wrong in my thinking ?

 

[amsoilman]

I was making coffee for the wife and I and in general bull, told her of this thread. She reminded me of a test I did when deciding to stay with Dino or convert to Synthetic. I took two pieces of metal, made trays with sides and set them both next to each other at the same angle. I don't remember, but 3 ot 5 degrees downslope. I had catch cans at the bottom and poured a sample of full Synthetic in one and full Dino in the other. With fishing weights of 2 oz each, I placed them in the trays when the oil stopped dripping and waited to see which would reach the bottom first. Since I had only 7 weights, I did it 3 times to compare, not adding oil to see what happens when the layer is thinner over use. The full Synthetic side finished first each try. A basic and simple test that helped me decide. (a non scientific experiment.)

But if I may, I don't believe in blended oils. If a person is spending their money for something that is to protect their engines, I believe in either sit or get off the pot. Full Dino or full Synthetic. With a blend, how much or what is the % of the blend ? Are you paying for 50/50 of each ? Or 90% dino / 10% synthetic ? Not saying it isn't a quality oil and would not work for a longer life engine, but questioning the need for a 'blend' ?
Am I wrong in my thinking ?

In all of my reading and taking classes in oil & lubricants, it is my understanding that "synthetic blends", have never had a "standard" to go by, so yes, one Company can put 10% Synthetic base oil and 90% petroleum base, while another Company does it an entirely different way, such as 5% Synthetic base oil and 95% Petroleum base oil. In either case, they then add their "additive package" to make up the complete product.

 

[cerberusiam]

Am I the only guy in the United Stated running Delo 15w-40?

Not at all. I have over 250k on CR and well over 300-40ok on gen1 engines using Premium Blue or Delo in 15w-40. Hot, cold, rain, or shine. Oil samples have always been fine and claimed I could run longer, never do. Change it every 7-8k miles and never use more than a quart between changes.

I have yet to find a reason, cost or viscosity, to run anything else in the lower 48.

 

[CrewCabDiesel]

After owning 1st, 2nd and now 3rd generation Dodge Cummins I converted to Rotella 5w40 almost 20 years ago and has always done the job for my heavily bombed trucks from Michigan to South Carolina climates pulling all kinds of loads. My 2001 3500 crossed the mountains heading to South Carolina pulling 14000 5th loaded with our house hold stuff hitting 200k miles in 102 degrees heat and never looked back. Sold that truck at 360k still no oil usage and very little blow by. That truck had all types of mods, and edge comp, injectors, turbo upgrade and at the dyno was putting out over 525 rwhp. So when the foot hits the rubber is where it counts.
My 3 cents, Kyle

 

[promisedland]

I tapped in at the filter by removing a 1/8'' npt plug. I see 20psi at warm idle and 80ish cold driving easy.

A question for you all,... i have been noticing a chattering sound [not always, but always with a cold eng, not with a warm eng] it sounds like a high psi line chatter or electrical sparking [my explanation] Just this eve as i wanted to head home [cold eng] i heard it again... so i watched my gauges for a clue. {sound isnt steady,.. and goes away as eng warms up} AND i see my eng oil gauge starts to drop when the sound comes on and starts to rise to normal when sound fades. The needle is always moving up or down, maybe between 35 to 45 psi [not sure on this]
No leaks at the oil filter, i have slight seepage at my gauge though....

Air in my oil hose?? [filter housing to gauge] Gauge is in my cab in front of 4x4 shifter.

Oil psi is steady when sound ISNT there.

 

[cerberusiam]

Probably the PR valve releasing high pressure when the engine is cold.