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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Engine/transmission Problems?

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When I am going down the highway at cruising speed and attempt to pass someone, the truck will speed up at a relatively good rpm if I don't push the accelerator down to far. But if I push the pedal down a little more, the rpm's raise up and it doesn't feel like it is speeding up as fast. Also sounds like the engine is governing out and the turbo is getting too much pressure. Could it be the torque converter unlocking? It is very depressing because when you have to pass someone or even speed up for that matter, you don't want to have to gradually push the pedal down only so far so you don't end up just revving the engine. I even thought of something slipping. But it speeds up really decent if you don't go to far on the pedal. Any ideas? Would the TST 12V Power Kit be causing this?

Thanks,

Trever
 
I'm not a Trans expert, and it could be the Torque Conv, but you could also have a Valve Body problem.



You're not too far from ATS, in Denver. I feel they have done the most thorough job of engineering of all the Performance Trans. builders. Clint's number is 800-949-6002



I got the ATS Stage IV when I had 107,000 miles on my truck, and it was the best thing I ever did. Here is a thread I posted when I got back from Denver a year and a half ago.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...?threadid=40441&highlight=Experience+with+ATS
 
Give DTT a call at 1-866-504-4002 and see what they have to offer. Great products, great service! www.dieseltrans.com is their website.

Check out all vendors and then choose what is best for you and your uses. E-mail me if I can help with any questions.



James
 
Line pressure comes with RPM. You could be slipping the TC clutch at lower RPM, then as it builds with RPM, it tightens up enough to hold... ... ... ... for now.
 
You should be able to push the pedal clear to the floor without it unlocking the TC as long as you don't do it too quickly.

If you mash the pedal too fast when passing, it can unlock and leave you sitting there at the same speed and high rpm which is not good when you need to get around someone quickly.

When that happens, you should definitely feel the TC unlock.

If you are not feeling any actual shift, only an increase in rpm without a speed increase then it is probably slipping.

If you have recently added the TST power kit, you may very well be overpowering a tired transmission.
 
Mystery Switch

Thanks guys for all of your support and time! Really appreciate it! Thumbs up!



Dennis,

I've been thinking that also. Maybe I can do a pressure check and adjust the pressure.



Howard,

I can push the pedal to the floor without unlocking the TC, but only on hills. Maybe i'm getting these two things mixed up; lock/unlock and OD/kickdown? When i've been passing, i've been pushing the pedal down very slowly which seems to work really good at speeding up, until the RPMs raise and then the speed doesn't increase much. It still speeds up, just not as fast and it sounds like the turbo is going to float and go through the firewall. Then also, sometimes when this happens, if I hold the throttle and speed steady instead of increasing speed, it will quit after a few seconds and you can actually feel it go back into lock and the rpms lower back down like they were before. Really hard to explain. :eek:



From a different source, i've been told to use a mystery switch. Is this hard to hook up? I plan on doing some searching through the archives tonight but I though I would mention it. Also been told to check the TPS adjustement. Is this hard?



I think I will try this mystery switch and do a little more searching.



Thanks,

Trever
 
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Trever,



I am not sure at what speed you can still get a "kick down" when you mash the pedal. Probably somewhere around 60 mph.

Kick down will immediately cause the transmission to unlock the TC and then drop out of OD.

Say you are traveling at 60 to 65 and you want to pass, punch the throttle hard and both of these things happen and you are left along side the other car at about 2200 rpm and still going 60 or 65. If another car is coming, things can get tense.



I am still not quite clear about what is happening to you.

When the transmission shifts into OD and then TC lockup you should feel each one as they happen. When you kick down, first the TC unlocks then OD drops out. Those both happen very quickly and it may feel like a single shift.

If you are not feeling a definite shift when OD engages or the TC locks or unlocks, I am inclined to think something is slipping. If that is the case, you are going to need someone to run some diagnostics to establish where the problem is.



As to the mystery switch, I think you need to figure out if you have any real problems with the transmission before messing with that. If you don't tow anything, you probably wouldn't have a need for one. The only thing I use mine for is to keep the TC locked when using the exhaust brake.

I can also keep it unlocked if I need to which can sometimes help me get out of an egt problem.



My advice right now is the same as the other posts on this thread. Find a good transmission shop and have them run some tests.
 
Howard,



Thanks for the reply again!



You are partially explaining what is going on.



I did a little more testing tonight. Say i'm driving 60 mph, engine rpm is 1700, if I ease on the throttle to accelerate it stays locked up and accelerates fine. But if I push the pedal down just a little faster or more instead of doing it like I first tried, not even mashing it, it will stay in lockup until 1800 rpms and then the transmission drops a gear or unlocks and the engine goes balls to the wall forever or until you let off some. And even if you mash the accelerator the transmission doesn't shift or unlock until that 1800 rpm point. It slowly accelerates up to that point and then the rpms go up and it slowly speeds up.



Maybe this is the way all Chrysler transmission's work, i'm used to Chevy and Ford gassers that don't really stay lugging in lockup. If you push on the pedal with one of those, the transmission automatically downshifts when you're in cruising gear.



At first I was wondering if their was something wrong with the transmission, now I just think it is my little knowledge of how Chrysler transmission's work. ???



Maybe I can show someone at Ramsey next weekend at the MNTDR event.



I would also like to know how to tell the difference in the change of gears or valve positions or whatever you would want to call it. It is not really gears since you don't really shift to a different gear. :) I can't really tell when they change because the shifting is so smooth.



I still would like to install a mystery switch, preferably a 3 position switch i. e. lock-auto-unlock. Does anyone know what kind of switch you need for this? How many terminal blades? What about a schematic or instructions? What about switch locations?



Thanks,

Trever
 
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Trever,

What is your drive train gear ratio. Mine is 3. 54. The other option is 4. 10

Another thing to consider in comparing yours with mine it the fact that you have a 47RE transmission which is electronically controlled as opposed to my 47RH which is hydraulically controlled.

I have no experience with the 47RE.

I think it best you have someone drive the truck who has experience with these transmissions and find out for sure if it is normal or not.



My TC controller or "mystery switch" that allows the three options uses a three pole three position switch.

PM me your e-mail address and I'll send you the schematic and details. I can't get it in here because the file is too large.
 
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sounds like a TPS... ... sometimes mine would only do it on overpasses where a little more throttle was needed. had to end up pulling the 3 wires out of the harness back passed the 1st big junction where some higer voltage stuff was... ... ... . figured this one out after many hours of my time/ "expert" trans guys' time/ parts..... etc... .....
 
Howard,



I've got the 3. 54 rear end. Is the 47RH any more reliable than the 47RE? If so would one of those work in something like I have? I will check my mail and respond accordingly.



Shendren,



That also sounds like a possibility. Been reading a lot of that in the archives. What did you end up doing to fix it?



Thanks guys!



Trever
 
The fact that your converter is unlocking at full pedal should actually make it run quicker. It gives you a kinda passing gear. You are probably just falling on the rev limiter at that point. Put in a 3 or 4 k gsk. It will help. And is really needed any way.
 
fixed it just like i said. look in the archives... it was very frustrating. mine ended up being noise in the harness. another fine dodge p. o. s... ... .
 
SEmerson,



That also is probably right. Right now I seem to defuel at around 2400-2600 rpms. I also questioned whether that was supposed to help you to pass or not. I know in my Chevelle if it does that I about spin the car around in it's own path. :D Kinda scary. I'm looking at a new PDR 4K GSK for $205. Don't think that I can pass that up. BTW, I like your interior in your 12Valve. What kind of computer is that? I see you have the internet? How does that work and is it spendy?



shendren,



Sounds good, i'll do some more searching. This poor computer. Sure get our money's worth out of it. :D



Thanks again,



Trever
 
Your transmission is fine, it's kicking out of OD because of the position of the throttle, your tps could be out of adjustment. Mine has always done the same unless I push down on the throttle rather slowly, out of adjustment can make it worse. Adjustment instructions here http://dodgeram.org/tech/transmission/automatic/TPS_adjust.htm

Unlike a gasser you have less torque at higher rpms unless you add a GSK. Mystery switch will also work but will be very hard on your transmission if you forget to unlock at lower speeds or rapidly floor it locked up.



The RH is a good transmission, many people prefer it for competition.
 
Yeah I thought that the transmission would be fine. It seems to work fine otherwise, except for the truck don't speed up very fast but that's not the trannys fault. Anyhow, i'll bring my DVOM home with me then on Monday and check the voltage. I have to invest in some back probes for it and a replacment clip for one of the probe ends. Thanks for the link and info!



Trever
 
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those tips on the ends of the dvm's probes are going to be WAY to big to slide in the back of the connector..... i use a small paperclip attached to the end of the probe...
 
I personally strip about an inch of insulation off some automotive stranded wire then cut off all the strands but one. You can then put the single strand in the female part of the plug then plug it back together, leave the other end of wire with all the strands for connecting up the meter.

Maybe I had too big of a paper clip but the one time I tried it I felt it stretched out the female part of the connector leaving a loose connection when the paper clip was removed.
 
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