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Espar on a 3G truck

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Yes. They drilled a hole in the top of the tank, cut the pickup tube to length and mounted the assembly. The pump is right at the top of the pickup tube (pushing is better than sucking). The wiring for the pump and the fuel line were ran up the inside of the frame to the unit at the front. I think that a person could install this unit at home if you are mechanically inclined and have the time. The instructions that come with it seem to be okay. Hope you have luck finding a source for one.
 
Mounting under the air box sounds like a good location, I'll have to look at that location. Since Espar doesn't make a kit for the '03s, I'd be curious as to what they did for bracketry and what pump they used. Does Espar make a pump for this use?
 
I think the number for this kit is HYDRONIC D5WSC 25 2229 05 00 00 as a complete package. I got this number off the manual that came with it. I know that everything came packaged in one box. I think that some parts such as heater hose and a relay for the cab heater blower came from their parts. Sorry I can't be of more help but I left the empty box at the installers. I didn't hang around the shop when they did the install as they were extremely busy and I also felt that they knew what they were doing. I know I don't like some one on my back when I do what I do. If you need more help I can get this dealers #s for you.
 
Espar pricing

I can get the D5 CA 221920 plus the CA 100205 timer for 1470. 00 Canadian. Thats in and around the 1100-1150 US Dollar range.

Plus the tax and shipping of course. :(

It might even be cheaper in US Dallars now... The Canuck Buck has dropped nearly two full cents sicne I converted it last.



I'm not far from Shaunovan... over here in Regina. :D
 
$2500 CDN for the D5W installed is a pretty decent deal I think-I paid $2200 CDN a little over 2 years ago for the D4W Dodge-specific kit--$2K for the heater kit itself and another $200 for the keyless remote fob--and then installed it myself. I will never take that job on again... ... what a major PITA!



Mine is currently non-functional as the glow pin is fried. I just got a replacement today-need to schedule some time to pull, repair and replace-realistically that will be around the middle of January :( .



Hello there Scotty-what's up in your part of the world? No snow here-sucks to see $10K of sled sitting forlornly in the corner of the shop... ...



Jason
 
All is well over here.

I was up there in your fine town a few days ago Mr. Jake. Did your anemic brother tell you? LOL

I might be up there again shortly. Perhaps a few mugs of #2 and a shot of Lubetec to wash her down is in order? :--)
 
Left the truck at the shop, this is a hard install. Real worried about the tie -in with the cab blower motor. I called Espar myself ,talked to a engineer. He said... "we have no information or help available for you in regards to a Gen. 3 Dodge. We can't keep up with all the manufacturing changes . Were just a small company. If you have problems call Dodge. ":mad: Will know more tomorrow. With all this money ,it better work!!!! I don't want to fry my wiring harness!!! Or kill the heater control functions!!
 
JPM

It's "real" easy. 1)Locate the two "heavy" wires at the heater motor. 2) establish which one is live 3) cut this wire leave enough to connect a sealable yellow butt connector 4) join the black/violet wire from espar's harness to the motor 5) join the black wire from the espar's harness to the remaining wire left (which was previously cut from the motor). The relay thus supplies voltage to the black/violet wire when it senses the coolant has reached a predetermined temp.

Note: Dodge provides a ground control circuit for the heater speeds which the espar is "not" connected into . Good luck
 
No he didn't Scott... ... in the last month or so excluding Xmas shopping with him Friday and Saturday I probably haven't spent 3 hours around him. We seem to be on different schedules around here.



Gimme a call if you're coming close to here-I am working straight through now until New Year's Day-I am hoping to get some sledding in after that somewhere in this fine province where I can find some snow.....



Jason
 
Originally posted by dan. poitras

JPM

It's "real" easy. 1)Locate the two "heavy" wires at the heater motor. 2) establish which one is live 3) cut this wire leave enough to connect a sealable yellow butt connector 4) join the black/violet wire from espar's harness to the motor 5) join the black wire from the espar's harness to the remaining wire left (which was previously cut from the motor). The relay thus supplies voltage to the black/violet wire when it senses the coolant has reached a predetermined temp.

Note: Dodge provides a ground control circuit for the heater speeds which the espar is "not" connected into . Good luck

Thanks for the info. They didn't do it this way and blew the blower fuse! Will the blower motor and heater work correctly with the wiring setup like you described? How about the new fangled fuses Dodge uses ?:confused: Reinventing the wheel again!:rolleyes:
 
Hi,I did rewire as described and it works fine!:D Thanks.

I bought and had mine installed by Interstate Detroit Diesel. Semi truck people. They did a good install but the blower wiring was wrong and now I think the heater hose routing is wrong. :rolleyes: Does anyone know that the coolant flow direction was changed on the G3 trucks? I fixed the wiring after talking to Greg Landuyt from Indiana. He set me straight on the way things are supposed to be. If you need a unit installed around the Indiana area I'd consider his shop, he seems to know what it takes. I'd be cautious going to these semi truck places.
 
Originally posted by JPM

Hi,I did rewire as described and it works fine!:D Thanks.

I bought and had mine installed by Interstate Detroit Diesel. Semi truck people. They did a good install but the blower wiring was wrong and now I think the heater hose routing is wrong. :rolleyes: Does anyone know that the coolant flow direction was changed on the G3 trucks? I fixed the wiring after talking to Greg Landuyt from Indiana. He set me straight on the way things are supposed to be. If you need a unit installed around the Indiana area I'd consider his shop, he seems to know what it takes. I'd be cautious going to these semi truck places.

JPM

Sorry I was away. I'm glad you got your wiring straightened out.

Yes the coolant flow is the same as all B and C series cummins.

Flows out the top of the head and returns to the water pump.
 
Just ordered one of these from Greg at Lubespecialist, real nice guy. He just did an install on a 3G and he recommends the D5WS model (not the SC) because it seperates the heating unit from the pumps and allows a more flexible install. Using this model you can mount it under the passenger side battery. Kit price (see his website) was good, includes fuel pickup tube and 7 day timer.



Now all I need is a heated garage for a weekend or two! (Supposed to hit -9 here in NE PA tonight which probably means -20 for me :{)
 
From the part #, the "D5WS" looks to be like it is the Hydronic 5 model... right?



I like the idea of having the pump/boiler separated... . just like the boiler in the basement.



His prices were very good from what I have seen. I didn't realize it included the timer... that makes it slick as heck.



I like the idea of having a wireless remote on it as well - so that you can start it up on the fly when outside of the normal timer schedule.



Matt
 
Yes, it should be the Hydronic 5 model. The remote is not included I don't think, it requires a receiver and transmitter. My thought was to eventually get a an alarms system and use that to activate it through an output. Shouldn't need the receiver or transmitter if the alarm system handles it.
 
Cool! The Hydronic 5 is a 17,100 BTU unit... . and the Hydronic 4 is a 13,700 BTU unit.



The difference in the BTU is nice, but I really like the separate pumps/boiler... that's really sweet!



Thanks for the quick reply!



Matt
 
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