Exhaust Brake Re-Wire

[AH64ID]

Should be a great setup.

You will need to find what psi the banks operates at and regulate down to that pressure. Since the Banks doesn't use a tank it's probably a lower psi than the Kilby will keep the tank at.

I was just looking over the Banks manual and noticed the brake is remote mount, and doesn't work with cruise... that sucks! But re-wiring the setup should allow you to use the brake in conjunction with cruise. I would pull every piece of Banks wiring off and wire it just like the Jacobs, but instead of a vac solenoid it will be a pressure solenoid.

 

[CKelley1]

ah64id i did not think of that. bd uses a known fixed psi to keep the butterfly from opening below 60 psi. see if the banks has a regulator. because of patent infringement i do not think banks will use this type. if in daut temporarily remove the pyrometer probe and connect a 100 psi gauge, you can get the oil pressure gauge installation kit at autozone for about $8 and has all of the fittings and 6 foot of copper line. take the truck out and try it. with the brake on it should see 60 psi

 

[Ram4Sam]

Thank you all for your responses and ideas. I like Harvey's the best, but cannot afford to start over new. I guess I'll have to make do with what I have. If anyone has any further thoughts, I welcome them.

Thanks,

Larry

Larry, seems your original question got lost in the shuffle. :-{} I first had mine hooked up with the pedal switch. With a the master switch on, the brake came on every time I let off the gas, which I found was a bit excessive and annoying. Then, when I wanted the extra braking, I had to make sure the master switch was on. Kind of a pain, really. With the EB wired direct to the switch on the stick, it works great for me. When you start downshifting/braking, your hand is already on the stick so actuating brake blends right into the process. On when you want and off when you don't, instead of the truck making the decision.



Sam

 

[AH64ID]

ah64id i did not think of that. bd uses a known fixed psi to keep the butterfly from opening below 60 psi. see if the banks has a regulator. because of patent infringement i do not think banks will use this type. if in daut temporarily remove the pyrometer probe and connect a 100 psi gauge, you can get the oil pressure gauge installation kit at autozone for about $8 and has all of the fittings and 6 foot of copper line. take the truck out and try it. with the brake on it should see 60 psi

I was referring to the air pressure to actuate the butterfly valve, not the back pressure produced from the brake. All the brakes make a max of 60# of back-pressure.

 

[Rockranch]

Larry, seems your original question got lost in the shuffle. :-{}



From reading on here, I have come to understand that that is about par for the course. That's ok, as I have learned many things I didn't ask about, but are good to know.



(I first had mine hooked up with the pedal switch. With a the master switch on, the brake came on every time I let off the gas, which I found was a bit excessive and annoying. Then, when I wanted the extra braking, I had to make sure the master switch was on. Kind of a pain, really. With the EB wired direct to the switch on the stick, it works great for me. When you start downshifting/braking, your hand is already on the stick so actuating brake blends right into the process. On when you want and off when you don't, instead of the truck making the decision. )



That is pretty much how I have been using it. (When it worked) Rolling down the highway with it off. When ready to get off, my hand goes to the shift lever and on goes the EB.



Thanks for the input.

 

[AH64ID]

Here is another good diagram to use.

http://www.pacbrake.com/PDF/L5304.PDF

 

[Rockranch]

Thank you. I am going to try to get under the truck soon and figure out exactly how t handle this, based on what I have. If I think of it, I'll try to get some pictures and report back.

 

[mikek]

Gentlemen,



I need some advice and was hoping that the more experienced heads could lend a hand. If this is in the wrong forum, please move it to the appropriate forum.



About 1 1/2 years ago I purchased, and installed an exhaust brake from a major manufacturer. I won't name names (but we all keep our money in one), but it has not worked correctly, consistently, from day one. The customer service department was of no help and they refused to take a return. The easy thing to do would be to buy a new one from Pacbrake, but I cannot afford to do that. I was on a road trip last week, not using my EB and had a thought. I'd like to run it past you all and see what you think.



I am about to install a Kilby OBA system. My thought for the EB was to use the air from the OBA, run through the existing solenoid from the EB system. That solenoid would be wired into the switch I have been using to activate the EB. The air would then go from the OBA, through the solenoid to the EB. The only control on the system would be the activation switch. I know it would not be perfect, but at least it would work. If I want it to warm up the engine, I turn it on. If I want to slow the truck down I turn it on. I stay away from the ECM and control the EB completely manually.



Does anyone see any problems, potential for damage, or any thing else I may be missing?


Thank you,kranc

Larry

I just installed a vacuum driven EB followed the wiring diagram to a tee and had it checked.when you turn engine off or switch off EB closes instead of opening.Floored system.might go to compressed air.