Factory 17 inch forged aluminum Alcoa wheels

[CVR222NV]

Are these pics from the 6 spoke wheels? That’s interesting if they are, it was my understanding that Alcoa manufactured the wheels for Chrysler in the USA from 2005-2008/09 (3rd gen). The six spoke wheels weren’t available until 2010 (4th gen). Let me know because my information was gathered specific to the 5 spoke wheels, So it is possible the 6 spoke were in fact US made as well? I look forward to finding out for my own personal knowledge so that I can pass along CORRECT information to folks that have questions! My biased opinion would be to go with the 5 spoke! But of course the way our trucks look and perform is a matter of personal preference and (BUDGET)! If I won a million bucks I probably still wouldn’t have the best equipped, sharpest 3rd gen out there!

Yes 6 spoke P/N 1QR35TRMAA

 

[Ranger Joe]

Yes 6 spoke P/N 1QR35TRMAA

Good to know! Thanks for the update. I’ve started my quest to find out for sure when the change from US manufacturing to offshore took place concerning The wheels Alcoa made for Chrysler? I’ll post back if/when I know for certain!

 

[AH64ID]

6 spoke:

Yes, but 4th gen wheels and not 3rd gen. I'm pretty sure there weren't any 3rd gen 6 spoke wheels.

 

[Ranger Joe]

Both sets were 5 spoke. I’m not ever sure I’ve ever noticed 6 spoke 3rd gen 17’s.

The one set had solid spokes and was heavier, while the 03 wheels were lighter and bad recesses in the back of the spokes.

I can attest to the structural integrity of these wheels as well! They are certainly solid! They are a lot lighter weight and far better in appearance than the chrome clad rusted steel factory wheels that I replaced with them!

 

[Ranger Joe]

Yes, but 4th gen wheels and not 3rd gen. I'm pretty sure there weren't any 3rd gen 6 spoke wheels.

You are correct. 6 spoke was a 4th gen option not available with 3rd gen. Same specs however, so fitment and function on the 3rd gen shouldn’t be an issue if someone where to want to install them on their truck.

 

[BMcQuillan]

Hello, I have a 2005 2500 4wd with the Cummins and have been looking for a set of these for awhile. I currently have the 17 x8 chrome clad steel wheels that are starting to have some decent rust forming on the inner surfaces. Too much salt on these Massachusetts roads! I finally found a set of these with all the correct Mopar, Alcoa, and USA stampings on them, and just got them last week. I am thinking of getting another set of Michelin LTX AT2 tires in the stock size 265/70R17, which I now have on the steel wheels and keep the steels for the winter and run the Alcoas in the good weather. I test fit a bare wheel tonight, and it looks like the Alcoas must have about 3/8 of an inch more negative offset than the steels. Do you guys know if the lug nuts that came with my steel wheels are the same for the Alcoas? Looks like they should be, but just want to make sure. Thanks for any help!

 

[AH64ID]

Do you guys know if the lug nuts that came with my steel wheels are the same for the Alcoas? Looks like they should be, but just want to make sure. Thanks for any help!

Yes. My dad uses the same lugs and center caps on his 06 when he swaps back and forth from the chrome clad steel to the alum ones.

 

[Ranger Joe]

Hello, I have a 2005 2500 4wd with the Cummins and have been looking for a set of these for awhile. I currently have the 17 x8 chrome clad steel wheels that are starting to have some decent rust forming on the inner surfaces. Too much salt on these Massachusetts roads! I finally found a set of these with all the correct Mopar, Alcoa, and USA stampings on them, and just got them last week. I am thinking of getting another set of Michelin LTX AT2 tires in the stock size 265/70R17, which I now have on the steel wheels and keep the steels for the winter and run the Alcoas in the good weather. I test fit a bare wheel tonight, and it looks like the Alcoas must have about 3/8 of an inch more negative offset than the steels. Do you guys know if the lug nuts that came with my steel wheels are the same for the Alcoas? Looks like they should be, but just want to make sure. Thanks for any help!

The lug nuts are the same open end 9/16-18 thread that are used with your steel wheels. I re-used mine when I switched wheels. I have about 500 miles on the new wheels and tires now and no issues. I did re-torque the wheels at 200 miles and they did take a little tightening. This is common with aluminum wheels. I’ll check them again soon to see if they have loosened any but checking lug nuts periodically is good practice anyhow! BTW factory torque spec for our wheels is 135 ft lbs.

 

[BMcQuillan]

Thanks for the info. I'm particular about torquing wheels, and always go back after a short time and retorque after I've had them off. These are also about half the weight of the steels, will be much easier to handle when installing. Thanks again!

 

[Ranger Joe]

Thanks for the info. I'm particular about torquing wheels, and always go back after a short time and retorque after I've had them off. These are also about half the weight of the steels, will be much easier to handle when installing. Thanks again!

I noticed you’re in MA too. My truck started life in Florida came to Mass and out to CA before winter so the undercarriage looked like it did when it was on the dealership lot new! I pulled a 26’ camper with it from CA back here to MA in the Fall. One winter on these roads and the surface rust is starting. Mind you I always drove my old Ford during storms but just the residual chemicals and salt on the dry pavement days after is enough to ruin an essentially brand new rig! Unreal! What are you in MA? I’m in Billerica AKA “Hillbillyrica”!

 

[Ranger Joe]

Thanks for the info. I'm particular about torquing wheels, and always go back after a short time and retorque after I've had them off. These are also about half the weight of the steels, will be much easier to handle when installing. Thanks again!

I grabbed these wheels particularly for the weight savings! I put 285/75 on them and wanted to stay right around the same unsprung weight as the stock size 265/70 on factory steel as the new tires are heavier than stock. In hind sight I wish I weighed them in both configurations to see how close I got with the numbers? I think fairly close because there is no noticeable change in ride quality!

 

[BMcQuillan]

I'm in Boylston, Ma. I seem to get compliments all the time on how good my truck looks for its age. The interior is mint except for cracking of the plastic face of the instrument cluster. I try to keep the salt off as much as possible in the winter, but its not easy! I've done a bunch of needle scaling and painting as much as I can underneath, and also spray it with Fluid Film every year. That has really seemed to help. I've also done a SnoDepot stainless oil pan, bent my motor lift lifting up the 1000 pound Cummins, but thats another story. Also done Carli ball joints and control arms, a set of heavier snow plow front springs, and upgraded the steering to the 2008 and up setup. The heavier springs took the rake out of the stance, and leveled out the truck nicely. It even remains level with the 8 foot Fisher installed. I try to take care of and keep my vehicles for a long time, I really love this truck. My last truck before this was an 87 GMC.

 

[Michaelsloft]

I'm in Boylston, Ma. I seem to get compliments all the time on how good my truck looks for its age. The interior is mint except for cracking of the plastic face of the instrument cluster. I try to keep the salt off as much as possible in the winter, but its not easy! I've done a bunch of needle scaling and painting as much as I can underneath, and also spray it with Fluid Film every year. That has really seemed to help. I've also done a SnoDepot stainless oil pan, bent my motor lift lifting up the 1000 pound Cummins, but thats another story. Also done Carli ball joints and control arms, a set of heavier snow plow front springs, and upgraded the steering to the 2008 and up setup. The heavier springs took the rake out of the stance, and leveled out the truck nicely. It even remains level with the 8 foot Fisher installed. I try to take care of and keep my vehicles for a long time, I really love this truck. My last truck before this was an 87 GMC.

Fluid Film is a great product and I have found it to help my '99 Gen 2 survive the Indiana and Ohio winters! Some Wd-40 on various exposed areas and parts can help too.
It's a battle with some of the road chemicals, but we'll worth the fight if you want to keep your truck for a long time!

 

[Ranger Joe]

I'm in Boylston, Ma. I seem to get compliments all the time on how good my truck looks for its age. The interior is mint except for cracking of the plastic face of the instrument cluster. I try to keep the salt off as much as possible in the winter, but its not easy! I've done a bunch of needle scaling and painting as much as I can underneath, and also spray it with Fluid Film every year. That has really seemed to help. I've also done a SnoDepot stainless oil pan, bent my motor lift lifting up the 1000 pound Cummins, but thats another story. Also done Carli ball joints and control arms, a set of heavier snow plow front springs, and upgraded the steering to the 2008 and up setup. The heavier springs took the rake out of the stance, and leveled out the truck nicely. It even remains level with the 8 foot Fisher installed. I try to take care of and keep my vehicles for a long time, I really love this truck. My last truck before this was an 87 GMC.

Sounds like you’ve got a pretty nice set up! I get tons of compliments on my rig as well because it only has 49k miles on it so it is virtually still new. I was looking into getting NH oil undercoating done but think that doing fluid film myself will save me a ton of cash over the long haul? I’m not sure yet which product I’ll put on, have to do some more research to find out if there is much of a difference between the 2 products! I’m definitely going with Carli ball joints when I need them. Just had the alignment done and was told there was very minimal movement in the uppers nothing remarkable or in need of being replaced yet. I plan to keep this truck going for a very long time and that all starts with being proactive about maintaining it!

 

[BMcQuillan]

The downside to the NH oil is making it very difficult to find and seepage or fluid leaks that develop. Its also very messy to work on anything underneath. You do need a compressor and a special spray gun to spray the Fluid Film but it's not too expensive, about 35 bucks. It's also a lot friendlier for the environment. I've used it for the last few years and really like it. If you Google it you can read a lot more about it.

 

[Ranger Joe]

The downside to the NH oil is making it very difficult to find and seepage or fluid leaks that develop. Its also very messy to work on anything underneath. You do need a compressor and a special spray gun to spray the Fluid Film but it's not too expensive, about 35 bucks. It's also a lot friendlier for the environment. I've used it for the last few years and really like it. If you Google it you can read a lot more about it.

Thanks for the info! I was apprehensive about NH mainly because of the initial cost along with the annual cost of maintaining it... I will be looking into Fluid film harder for sure! I seem to remember reading that it wasn’t too friendly if it got on rubber components (brake/fuel) lines? I don’t know enough about it to know for sure? Just something on a forum that someone mentioned. A buddy of mine at work wants to do his truck too so we can split the cost of a 5 gal bucket of Fluid film if I end up going that route!

 

[Ranger Joe]

Quick update... The shop that painted the center caps black didn’t prep the chrome so the paint started to peel almost immediately. I decided to strip the paint and do them myself with plastidip. I used the plastidip primer first which acts as an adhesion promoter. I sprayed 5 coats of color and they came out pretty good, now at least if the start to peel I’ll be able to touch them up easily. Before I cleaned and painted the caps I cut out the Ram head in the center with a 2 3/4 inch hole saw. After the plastidip was dry I installed 76mm snap in center caps from Amazon. I ran a bead of black rtv silicone sealant around the backside before putting them in. The final touch came in the mail the other day and got installed today. The Alcoa wheels center cap 3D stickers! I got this idea from the post about debadging and using the Cummins “C” on the center caps. I figured I’d do something a little different plus I didn’t want to have too many Cummins related things on the truck. Thanks for the all the feedback since I’ve started this diesel addiction!

 

[Ozymandias]

Awesome Truck, that blackened lock good!

-But-

You need new headlights, your's pulling down the whole appearance of the Truck, blind Eyes are sad.

 

[Ranger Joe]

Awesome Truck, that blackened lock good!

-But-

You need new headlights, your's pulling down the whole appearance of the Truck, blind Eyes are sad.

Tell me about it... I’ve been looking into headlights for a while now but the ones I want to get are 6-700 bucks. LED projectors with custom matte black painted interior factory housings. Don’t really want to blow a couple hundred on aftermarket ones that will leak and have condensation issues I’d rather save the money now and get the ones I want that will stand the test of time. I couldn’t agree more though, I just want to get some more mechanical projects completed before I get around to the high dollar aesthetics ie: bumpers and side steps. I have some custom badges on order for the grille and one for the tailgate which needs a dent repaired, debadged and painted. But just like anything I’ll have to do it one thing at a time unless of course I hit big on a scratch ticket?! Hahaha! Thanks for checking out my update. I have a bunch of things that I’ve done in the past year that I’ll have to post! I’m glad I have a place like this to show my hard work to folks that appreciate their trucks as much as I appreciate mine! My MRS. surely couldn’t care less but, that’s life I guess? Happy Truckin’!

 

[Ozymandias]

Good idea!
I run headlights from the Retrofit Store, Morimoto Xenons (2014) and couldn't be happier with it.