Factory brake controller

[Joseph Sobiech]

No I was told by Ram engineering that working as designed. Is jHenderson is still out there I'm wonder how you your doing with your truck. You have describe my problem identical as yours.

 

[Joseph Sobiech]

No I was told by the ram engineers that is working as designed I was wondering of J Henderson is still out there and how he made out with his truck he has described it adelicately the same problem I have.

 

[CRayHarvey]

I believe your choice is the correct one. I think you may be able to unplug the output of the ITBM from the standard trailer wiring plug and keep the rest factor ITBM connected. I bought AlphaOBD software and might be able to turn it off. I got to run, but would be happy to feed you info on that and we could use your conversion to document steps.

Cheers, Ron

I have a 2017 Ram 2500, and the trailer brake has stopped working all together. There also is a short somewhere as the tail lights for the trailer are on constantly even when they are turned off up front. While I was parked with my trailer at a Flying J, someone must have stepped between my truck and trailer and damaged and disconnected the trailer pigtail. I have wanted to check behind the plug but cannot figure out how those latches work there by the spare tire and I am afraid I might damage them. Is there any kind of a mo-dual or fuses in there? Its possible that they may have shorted something out in the trailer pigtail plug. I cannot find any fuse up front labeled specifically for the trailer brakes or for the tail light circuit. Do you or anyone know which number fuse I should be checking, and do you have any other suggestions for solving this problem? I mentioned this here because you mentioned the trailer plug in your thread. Would any of the after market meters for the OBD help me find this problem? C Ray TBR member

 

[Wiredawg]

I have a 2017 Ram 2500, and the trailer brake has stopped working all together. There also is a short somewhere as the tail lights for the trailer are on constantly even when they are turned off up front. While I was parked with my trailer at a Flying J, someone must have stepped between my truck and trailer and damaged and disconnected the trailer pigtail. I have wanted to check behind the plug but cannot figure out how those latches work there by the spare tire and I am afraid I might damage them. Is there any kind of a mo-dual or fuses in there? Its possible that they may have shorted something out in the trailer pigtail plug. I cannot find any fuse up front labeled specifically for the trailer brakes or for the tail light circuit. Do you or anyone know which number fuse I should be checking, and do you have any other suggestions for solving this problem? I mentioned this here because you mentioned the trailer plug in your thread. Would any of the after market meters for the OBD help me find this problem? C Ray TBR member

Do you have a MIL or showing any codes? I imagine the IBCM would quit working if it detected shorts and/or grounds.
I use a basic multimeter (volt-Ohm). You can get them at Walmart or any auto parts store. They also have trailer tester plugs you can plug into your truck's trailer plug and check lights, brakes, charging circuit, pretty easy peasy.

- Unplug your trailer, and either plug I the trailer test plug, it will immediately light up if there is a running lights issue in the truck OR
- take the multi meter, place on volts and lowest range above 12VDC, and check for voltage on the trucks plug with everything OFF in the truck...
- you should only see voltage on the charging circuit and maybe pulses on the brake circuit. Everything else should be 0.
- If you are seeing voltage on any of the light circuits, running, left turn, right turn, then likely a problem with the truck.
- If you have any problems, do a visual inspection of the trucks plug and peek underside to see if anything wrong.
- If nothing found on the truck, inspect the trailer's plug for damage too.

My truck is a 5500 Cab and Chassis, but I'll be happy to check my service manual to see where the trailer relays and/or fuses are. Back in a moment

Cheers, Ron

 

[CRayHarvey]

Do you have a MIL or showing any codes? I imagine the IBCM would quit working if it detected shorts and/or grounds.
I use a basic multimeter (volt-Ohm). You can get them at Walmart or any auto parts store. They also have trailer tester plugs you can plug into your truck's trailer plug and check lights, brakes, charging circuit, pretty easy peasy.

- Unplug your trailer, and either plug I the trailer test plug, it will immediately light up if there is a running lights issue in the truck OR
- take the multi meter, place on volts and lowest range above 12VDC, and check for voltage on the trucks plug with everything OFF in the truck...
- you should only see voltage on the charging circuit and maybe pulses on the brake circuit. Everything else should be 0.
- If you are seeing voltage on any of the light circuits, running, left turn, right turn, then likely a problem with the truck.
- If you have any problems, do a visual inspection of the trucks plug and peek underside to see if anything wrong.
- If nothing found on the truck, inspect the trailer's plug for damage too.

My truck is a 5500 Cab and Chassis, but I'll be happy to check my service manual to see where the trailer relays and/or fuses are. Back in a moment

View attachment 118849

Cheers, Ron

Thanks a lot for the help. I didn't find it until today. I'm trying to get the print on the diagram big enough to read and then print it out. I also got a code reader from Harbor Freight, a Zurick 15. This indicates that I may have a short to ground in the trailer brake module. I have not yet figured out why the lights stay on on the trailer circuit, even when the light switch is off. I'm afraid the problem is in the truck, as someone broke the trailer plug while it was plugged into the truck receptacle, probably trying to see what was in the back of the truck. This has probably shorted out something in the plug. I don't know why Dodge does not have a separate fuse for all of the legs of the receptacle as they do for the left turn and right turn. Maybe you or someone knows on a separate issue, I have a "perform service" message on my dash. Local Dodge dealer wants over $1000 to take something off, boil it out, and replace it, along with a CCV filter. Is this cleaning really necessary considering I use this truck as a truck and haul a 12000 # trailer with it about 90% of the time. Any help here would be appreciated. Thanks again - C Ray

 

[jhenderson]

The only service required on a 17 is replacement of the crankcase vent filter. It takes 20 minutes and the filter should be less than $100. Your dealer is trying to get you to go for a cleaning of the egr system which hasn’t been called for by Cummins or Ram since the introduction of the def systems on our trucks. Your service advisor is either incredibly unqualified or a thief. Either way steer clear of that dealer.

 

[CRayHarvey]

thanks a bunch. I need to get some recalls done, but will not get this cleaning done. thanks again, C Ray

 

[CRayHarvey]

Thanks a Bunch, C Ray

 

[Wiredawg]

CRay,

If you're going to do much of your own wrenching, you may want to spring for the automated factory service manual, including the wiring one as well. It's not perfect, but its better than nothing.

Cheers, Ron