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Factory Lift Pump Changed at 132K

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FCA part # and location?

04.5 codes

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i heard somewhere that if you disconnect connector while truck is running, it will send a fault code and you can take to dealer and they will replace????is that true?????
 
I don't remember changing the pump being too bad a deal for me. I guess maybe it's because I'm 6'4" with long arms. I did all the work from under the truck.



I've kept up with all the talk about aftermarket pumps, and actually went to a diesel shop to look at and price a FASS system. I bought a stock pump from NAPA and now have a spare. I'm more apt to spend money on more filtration.
 
I have 166K on my factory lift pump, still hums just before starting. Great tip about the noise if it buzzes, I will keep an ear out.
 
Negative feed pumps Don't care about Inlet pressure?



If the gear rotor pump on CP3 was such a pump that would be true. Its not, and it does. Real world experience determines the facts, not design.



Bosch Develop and designed the CP3 to live on minimum Pressure, the world had 100s of manufactures with High pressure Pumps (Lift/Feed) Not one was contracted, they contracted to have a low pressure pump designed and deployed for a reason.



Exactly, cost, cost cost.



Bosch only specs minimum/maximum pressures for the fuel system to operate correctly at design power levels. They do not design the low pressure fuel delivery systems. That is left to the manufacturer and they are the cheapest possible as we all know.



I have been on VC only to come back to 3 cores all with busted eccentric shafts do to High inlet Pressure,All were running Fass Pumps with pressure greater then 20Psi Feed.



Thats a BIG assumption to make based on limited info. One could just as well infer the lack of lubrication in ULSD caused the problem. Not saying your wrong, but, it is a stretch given no other pump builder has said that and real world results contradict. A much more viable theory is the lack pressure BEFORE the FASS was added contributed to the failure due to cavitation which is known to break the nose off the pump shaft, crack housings, and other assorted mayhem. At least there is known facts to support that scenario.



The question is for every Day Use is it required to Run 15psi or higher?



Pretty sure the answer is no given the known facts. Can't disagree there, but, thats a different scenario than too much pressure. You simply can't lump all the dieas together and draw a one size fits all conclusion. It doesn't work on paper and it doesn't work in the truck. :)
 
I just had the junk Guy pick up about 50 gear pumps from the last few Months. Its always seems that People (companies) Think that the Maker(s) and the designer(s) have limited resources or Knowledge. Yep over 30 years of designing rebuilding pumps From sprage to Wanner to Udoor and Bosch,I guest that just very limited. My Bank account(s) just keeps growing. records sales of Parts,Pumps,Injectors in 2010 and 11 looken good.
 
Lift pump

My original lift pump failed at 77k. The Geno’s failed at 97k. I now have 123k on the truck. I am sure glad I carry a spare in my boonie box.
 
The factory lift pump is way too cheap to be dependable.

I changed mine 4 times (on the side of the road) before I got smart and bought a Fass fuel pump. Well worth the money and time to change out to Fass.
 
4 times? Hmmmmmm. . It must be either Texans Fuel or all that hot air. . It may be the factory Deutsch harness. . -20 Bio diesel + Chloride= failed fass or Airdog. . I read Owners he in the cold belt running fass/Dog pump ,But eventually the conditions Kill the Pump or Plug the in-line filters. It was -12 here this morning.
 
Once stuck is once to many times!

I had my the pump go out at 85,000 on the freeway, had truck towed to Dealer (no cost to me), dealer installed in-tank pump (under warranty). I was thinking about get a FASS or AirDog, but when I was at the TDR rally in Pahrump NV this past year. Pete Tomka was giving classes, and he later told me that with the in-tank pump the FASS was not really necessary. 1) because the pump was kept cool by the fuel. 2) The in tank pump does not suck air like the engine mounted pump does. I do think that I need to install a better fuel filter system, I believe I will be going with the XX-Fuel system. This will also cut down on the filter changes since it eliminates the engine mounted fuel filter, and the XX-Fuel System filters are good for 20K each.
 
Just make sure the ratings are good for the filtration and water seperation if you bypass the OE cannister. Some times getting absolute numbers is tough on some of these systems.
 
The dealer changed my fuel pump at 97k and put it in the tank. Since then I have purchased a fass system and some original in tank module. No problem withe the fuel system as yet at 112k. Have not installed the fass as yet, do you guys think it is a major priority, or get some use out of the intank pump? Big job! Thanks Tim
 
Just make sure the ratings are good for the filtration and water seperation if you bypass the OE cannister. Some times getting absolute numbers is tough on some of these systems.



The XX-Fuel system is; 2 Micron Fuel Filter, with an 8 Micron Fuel Water Separator, good for 20K each. They also make a system that uses just the Water Separator and keeps the OE filter. When using this system they recommend changing the OE filter every 5K. Of course this syetem is cheaper then the formentioned system. Check out there website at; XX-Fuel Diesel Fuel Filtration Systems

I was reading in Diesel World magazine that the fuel Filter in the Dodge/Cummins is the weakest point on the engine, and has caused injector problems. I think most of us knew that. I am sure that most people don't change the filter like they are suppose to. I met a guy who told me that he often forgets to change the filter and he might go 20K+ before doing so. He has had fuel injector problems as a result of this. :rolleyes:
 
The dealer changed my fuel pump at 97k and put it in the tank. Since then I have purchased a fass system and some original in tank module. No problem withe the fuel system as yet at 112k. Have not installed the fass as yet, do you guys think it is a major priority, or get some use out of the intank pump? Big job! Thanks Tim



Mine was changed at 85K like I mentioned, and I have almost 130K on my baby with no problems... knock on wood! :)
 
The XX-Fuel system is; 2 Micron Fuel Filter, with an 8 Micron Fuel Water Separator, good for 20K each.



The question that needs to be asked : Is the rating niminal or absolute, it is what really matters.



A 2 micron nominal filter could only be a 7-10 micron absolute. The devil is in the details. :)



Granted the OE filtration is not the best, 10 micron on the older filter and 7 on the newer ones, but, the water sepration is one of the better ones. Need to make sure the water seperation is as good as possible or you will have problems. Water is worse than 7-10 micron solids for trashing the fuel system.
 
I just drained the filter housing and absolute clean diesel. The filter was kinda dirty, but for 17. 00 for the fleetguard filter, thats cheap. My new policy is change oil, oil filter, and fuel filter ever 5k miles with no worries. I use Delo 400. Now My Banks six gun, that is another story, no product support, no e-mails returned, no return call, you cannot talk to anyone. Their first sale is their only sale. WhAT A CRAPPY WAY TO DO BUSINESS! If I can get that out of the truck, I will toss far and not look back! Another cel light.
 
The question that needs to be asked : Is the rating niminal or absolute, it is what really matters.



A 2 micron nominal filter could only be a 7-10 micron absolute. The devil is in the details. :)



Granted the OE filtration is not the best, 10 micron on the older filter and 7 on the newer ones, but, the water sepration is one of the better ones. Need to make sure the water seperation is as good as possible or you will have problems. Water is worse than 7-10 micron solids for trashing the fuel system.



I don't understand what you are saying about the microns. If they say they are a 2 micron filter why would it be anything else, unless they are not telling the truth. If that were the case how would I know that the Fleetguard filter is in fact 7 Microns? :confused:
 
The ratings are deceptive... You can easily manipulate the system which all the BIG manufactures use. Some companies have (Commercial) are and have designed their own filtration system, One I can think of In Texas ( I will Get the Name Later) was fed up with all the engine problems relate to poor filtering ,They Have a New concept that use high pressure to filter Fuel/Oil, its so effective You won't believe the stuff they pull out of New oil and fuel. I will find the link.
 
I don't understand what you are saying about the microns. If they say they are a 2 micron filter why would it be anything else, unless they are not telling the truth. If that were the case how would I know that the Fleetguard filter is in fact 7 Microns? :confused:



There are 2 ratings applied to all these filters, Nominal and Absolute. Absolute usually means it is 98% or more effective at filtering at a certain flow. Nominal could mean its effectiveness is somewhere where between 50 and 98% effective at the rated flow. Sometimes they will rate the absolute at say 7 micron absolute and 2 micron nominal, guess which number gets published?



Just saying 2 micron is not enough, need to know which rating they mean and what flow rates.





The Fleetguard is rated at 7 micron absolute at a certain flow, thats published.
 
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